Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

E30 #2: 1990 Delphin: RHD ITB M20

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • bradnic
    replied
    where did you find the block / manifold part for the rear brake hard lines? been looking for that piece myself for the IX.. or is it just your car is totally rust free lol

    Leave a comment:


  • 318aye
    replied
    Got out to the mountains a little while ago, thought I'd share.

    Leaving the bar setup alone for now. I've gotten used to it now on the street, and tire should help on the track. Would like to get the car a little lower with a little more camber next time. Meanwhile, a new addition has taken up some of my garage time.





    Leave a comment:


  • 318aye
    replied
    Originally posted by Vic View Post
    Two of my favorite cars! Mk2 Supra and an e30! I've owned a total of 9 mk2's and finding oem parts for that is definitely not as easy getting oem parts for e30's.
    Ex. Rocker moldings, door belt moldings... everything is nla! finding one with a non rusty hatch lol. Great pics man!
    Thanks! Love the mk2's as well, the one pictured has an aluminum 5.3 in it, lots of fun.

    Originally posted by rturbo 930 View Post
    To resize using imgur, add an H to the end of the img name. Example: imgur. com/tBlMNqZh.jpg
    You're the real MVP. Never thought I'd get this fixed.

    Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post
    1) I love this build.

    2) I highly prefer flickr to imgur.

    3) I just reread this and didn't realize that you made 180whp on a stock cam/bottom end. That's incredible.
    Thanks! Does flickr cap you in any way? Seeing what an otherwise off the shelf M20 can do has been the goal for a while. It's enough fun that I think I'll focus on other areas of the car for a while before adding more power.

    Leave a comment:


  • AWDBOB
    replied
    1) I love this build.

    2) I highly prefer flickr to imgur.

    3) I just reread this and didn't realize that you made 180whp on a stock cam/bottom end. That's incredible.
    Last edited by AWDBOB; 01-18-2018, 07:22 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • rturbo 930
    replied
    To resize using imgur, add an H to the end of the img name. Example: imgur. com/tBlMNqZh.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Vic
    replied
    Two of my favorite cars! Mk2 Supra and an e30! I've owned a total of 9 mk2's and finding oem parts for that is definitely not as easy getting oem parts for e30's.
    Ex. Rocker moldings, door belt moldings... everything is nla! finding one with a non rusty hatch lol. Great pics man!
    Last edited by Vic; 01-17-2018, 01:30 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • MrBurgundy
    replied
    Originally posted by 318aye View Post
    Imgur ftw. Sorry, pics are still huge. But they're there. When did it become hard to post pictures on the internet?
    when photobucket decided to Futt Buck every thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • 318aye
    replied
    Imgur ftw. Sorry, pics are still huge. But they're there. When did it become hard to post pictures on the internet?

    Leave a comment:


  • ZodGilla
    replied
    I inspected the images, they're getting this error:
    Failed to load resource: the server responded with a status of 403

    Looks like you need to change permissions on the pictures. You may be able to see them but nobody else will.

    You could just upload them to a image sharing site if you don't want to deal with permissions. I prefer Imgur for its simplicity since you dont need an account.

    Leave a comment:


  • AwakenNoMore
    replied
    Originally posted by rzerob View Post
    Ditto.

    R.I.P. Images

    Leave a comment:


  • rzerob
    replied
    Originally posted by ZodGilla View Post
    FYI, none of the images are showing up for me.
    Ditto.

    Leave a comment:


  • ThatM20Guy
    replied
    Originally posted by ZodGilla View Post
    FYI, none of the images are showing up for me.
    Same here

    Leave a comment:


  • ZodGilla
    replied
    FYI, none of the images are showing up for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • 318aye
    replied
    Update from the graveeee. Still struggling with photobucket, if anyone has questions about the kit, tune, setup, etc don't hesitate to ask. I'm pretty good about responding to PM's or posts here but photobucket makes me want to jump off a bridge every time I go to work on the remaining photos in here.

    Interior: Stock seats didn't work out, upon arrival they were poorly recovered so I returned them. Eyeing a set of Recaro Specialists for xmas. Still enjoying the stock Tech 1 wheel. I think that rewrapped, a final leather seat solution and condor knob should close it out. Pro Tip: Pay attention to the wattage rating on your cluster bulbs. 3W max means 3W max. I had one pop on me from getting too hot.

    Engine: Got the new backing plate, trumpets and spacers from Rama. Spoiler alert: all the parts helped the rubbing issue, but didn't solve it (sad emoji). Ultimate solution: I spaced the hood another 1/8" (still not that noticeable) and pulled the factory liner. No paint issues or anything so far. Kinda frustrated with that issue overall but I feel that this is the least invasive solution. I've been driving the car a lot recently and haven't seen any further rubbing. The car is coming due for a timing belt, and I'm still not financially ready to break off a 3.0 for this car. I'd like to pull the motor, get the maintenance / a reseal done next year. Adding factory idle control back into the mix is also on the list.

    Rear End / Suspension: Pre-CMP, the car got all new rear end bushings (minus differential) along with new offset CABs and an alignment. Went to Eurowise here in CLT for it, was left with kind of mixed impressions. They had lots of complaints about the garagistic adjusters, and when I talked to them about a right hand pull (on fresh tires and alignment), they didn't seem to be jumping at the chance to work on the car again and asked me to add front camber/castor adjustment to correct the issue. I have since murdered the G-Forces (which are really not up to task on track) so I need tires before revisiting the issue. The IE 25/22 bar set also went on, and would be perfect for autocross. However, the rear stiffness really made the car too unstable for me on track and I ended up sideways for most of the day, especially once the tires were fully killed. This is with the bar on full soft too, although I think the tires contributed to my issues. The end links also rub my Eibach's in the rear, so in addition to front castor/camber adjustability, I think a 2.5" spring conversion might be on the horizon.

    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    Typed out a huge response as far as MS/M1.3 tuning....got lost in the upload.
    Sorry.

    In basic, 230whp is easy talk with a good engine builder on a 2.8/280 cam, no sweat on a 3.0/284.

    Waiting on a 3.1 Peerless-built m20 to trip the dyno with a WOT tune. Then I will really see what a 3.1 vs 2.8 vs 272 vs 284 will do in a real chassis on a real dyno with replicating results on the same dynojet machine I have been beating up for 8yr.
    Getting closer (lots left to go) to the limit in this car at 180 whp, 230 feels like a good practical target. More would be fun on the street, but honestly wouldn't be much use for me on the track. Interested to see what you squeeze out of a properly equipped 2.8!

    Originally posted by digger View Post
    You'll want a 288 or more if you want to push past 230 with itb there isn't much downside the throttles tame the cam and power gains keep increasing (not like a standard intake where it doesn't drive as nice and you hit a wall power wise)

    Alpha n works fine on the street if the ecu is half decent, you use a good tps and you get it tuned properly.
    Per your earlier comments, I'm looking into a contactless TPS as well. Gonna try and find a direct fit before I go and modify the RHD parts.

    Giant stream of consciousness picture update:































































    Last edited by 318aye; 01-18-2018, 03:13 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by Digitalwave View Post
    John, you want to tune my RHD setup on a high compression, 284 cam 2.5L?

    I'm think going to get my car up and running on MS2 first before installing the RHD kit. It will be easier to separate MS and ITB problems if I do them one at a time. But I would really like to see if it's possible to run speed density with the ITB's, rather than Alpha N.
    Would love to. one of my favorite parts of my job is going to dyno test/tune cars.

    As far as worrying about the order of things, don't sweat it. If you are purchasing a dyno tune, I can load a tune (or send it) that will work right away, but the putting on the rollers will get the most out of it.

    As far as Alpha-N vs SD, I would say do a dual tune or dual maps. The Alpha definitely is the winner when at or near WOT often, but I find funny things happen when you make adjustments, then change gears. The 3.1 has a weird spot at 45mph when cruising, but then when the VE is fixed up, the same gurgle comes back at 65mph. Problem is the VE map will have an RPM/TPS location matching in two gears. Your VE isn't going to be the same.

    Now, on the other hand, SD is a nicer driver for cruising. You can lug the car along in the high gear at low speeds without dumping fuel - but - you lose a great deal of resolution. The car is going to idle at or around 80kpa. So now you only have 20kpa total to work with which isn't much, so "zooming in" from 80-100 by adjusting the left hand map values, it can work half decent.

    I would suggest two tunes. One for cruising on the street, the other for when you want to go all out and don't mind keeping the engine rev-happy (track days etc).

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X