E30 #2: 1990 Delphin: RHD ITB M20

[itskingsteelo]

comment right heeeeeeere

[2mAn]

Cant wait to see what it makes after tuning. Congrats on getting it running

[318aye]

List got shorter this evening :).

Down to the following:
Mount IAT
Sync throttles
Install catch can
Powdercoat Valvecover
Install socks
Check hood clearance

Getting the throttles linked up this evening reminded me how much I need a proper small metric allen key and wrench set. Would advise if you're planning on buying this kit. Got the oil flushed. O2 sensor still fit the OE heat shield, fit the bung from eurowise perfectly. Zip tied the lower connector to the trans cross member, ran it tight up the firewall and over to the battery tray. Still excess length here, so it will stay coiled for now. O2 and IAT connectors went together smoothly. Big props to Keith (Whodwho) again for a killer MS implementation. Fired on second crank on his basemap. Revs nicely and idles. Very happy for the first start up. C101 bracket also worked out nicely. CNC plasma'd out of .100" mild steel. Would like to work out a mount for the IAT that spans between the lower bolts for the trumpet clamps on two adjacent banks and has a hole for the IAT in the middle. May have to weld to the C101 bracket to mount the catch can, we will see. Went to several nascar takeoff stores to source one locally, everything had gigantic fittings. Ordered this from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003C0173E/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All in all, super happy with the car so far. Time to tie up a few loose ends in the bay and get on the dyno in two weeks.

Wiring References:

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106053

http://aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-2310%20Inline%20Wideband%20UEGO%20Controller.pdf

http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/b55/usdm-bmw-325-8792-m20b25-mt.html

Pictures:















She's alive :P (Click for video)

https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/...F5RqZqmBx9LLUj

[318aye]

Evening number three went slower than I would have liked (again). Hoping to start the car tomorrow. Remaining Items:

To start car:

Build O2 harness
Clean underside of the car
Install MS
Change oil
wire IAT

To complete project:

Build bracket for the C101 connector
Sync throttles
Install catch can
Powdercoat Valvecover
Install socks
Check hood clearance

Started off by accidentally "modifying" the throttle cable. It comes bent towards the passenger side of the car, which interferes with the brake booster. I attempted to bend the hardline portion of the cable cladding, and actually separated it from the firewall grommet cleanly. This ended up working out, allowing me to re-position the cable to point straight up coming out of the firewall. I then superglued the fuck out of it. Cable routes up over the fusebox connector. Used the stock booster and check valve fittings. Used 3/8" ID FI line from autozone. DO NOT buy this. Was super expensive and unnecessary. Also the fittings are 7/16" ID at least. I had to muscle this together. Used one T fitting for the FPR vac line. Plugged in the TPS, factory harness length reaches. We'll see if the pinout is correct.

Pictures.

[318aye]

Well.. they at least match the header part of the exhaust, they are good for high end torque.

Hoping so!

[goarmy]

Well.. they at least match the header part of the exhaust, they are good for high end torque.

[318aye]

Ended up doing more non-car stuff this weekend than I planned. I'm probably 12 hours overall into the project (including pulling the intake manifold, etc). I work slowly :).

Things I still have to tackle:
Fill PS System (New reservoir)
Install E36 throttle cable
Make Brake booster/FPR vacuum line
Potentially rewire TPS (waiting until MS is in to verify inverted counts issue)
Build O2 harness
Clean underside of the car (four cans of brakleen later...)
Install MS
Build bracket for the C101 connector
Sync throttles
Sort out some sort of catch can
Change oil (I think I got crap in the bitch tube hole, just precautionary)

Assembly Notes: Only things you can really delete under the intake manifold are the throttle body coolant lines (need two heater caps, different sizes), and the bracket that holds the main coolant hose to the engine harness. The dipstick bent over fine, and will hold itself. No bracket necessary. Will need a bracket made this week for the C101/friends connector. Thinking of going off the factory airbox mount. Other than that most of my time was spent degreasing. Everything went together incredibly well until the 5-6 bank. Serious interference with the engine harness and the provided TPS. Much yanking was involved. Not sure how everyone else routed it, but mine runs on the driver's side of the TPS. Routing to the other side would not give enough clearance for the TPS connector. I installed all banks "pre-assembled", with trumpets on and everything. I did 3-4 first to get the bitch tube taken care of, then 1-2 (slid together fine with the shaft links and everything). 5-6 required me to remove the keeper off the #4 shaft link, and then re-install. When you install, leave the fuel rail brackets off and install those later as it makes it hard to get to the top nuts on the manifolds. Also note that the fuel rail will need two (M6 I believe) nuts that you didn't need before. The RHD brackets are not threaded. I had two nuts that fit sitting around that came off some other part of the intake manifold. Didn't have to disconnect the fuel lines for this install. Fuel rail install also requires that you have the main throttle arm bracket removed, so assemble that ahead of time but don't bolt it to the manifold until you have the rail in. Hood clearance is tight. With socks will be even tighter. I also ran into the main fuse box connector on the #6 trumpet. Removed the plastic shroud (does nothing) and it clears.

Pictures:

[Reichart12]

Cool to see us both planning to do our car work this weekend. Hopefully its a little warmer where you are than it is up in Maryland, 50-60 all weekend.

[318aye]

It's somewhat engine dependent but iirc it's somewhere around 30" from the end of the primary pipes. Check out digger's exhaust thread.

I think my merge is maybe 12" from the collectors. Once I get power numbers and a dyno chart, I'll get some location and length measurements on this exhaust system and look at what may need tweaking.

What suspension setup are you on? thanks

The PO was kind enough to install Eibach Pro-Kit springs and Bilstein Sports before I purchased the car. That is how it sits today.

get this things running on ITB's:) I want to see if you have the same issues as mine.

Hoping to get the car firing with ITB's/MS by Sunday. What are you running into? :shock:

usually a full on race engine with big overlap cam can make good midrange and topend with a short collector length but longer length seems to produce best overall power spread with bmw sixes, individual results may vary though

I'll be tuning on a different dynojet than the one my baseline numbers came from (also a dynojet) but I'd like to get on that same one as well to try and get as "apples to apples" as possible. Hopefully then you can help me analyze the plot and brainstorm where to go next as far as midrange improvements. :D

Remaining sensors arrived today. Thanks to DIY for the IAT. I'll sleep comfortably at night knowing that no matter what, my wideband harness will be long enough. ;) Every bit of 9 feet long. Should be a fun weekend!

[digger]

It's somewhat engine dependent but iirc it's somewhere around 30" from the end of the primary pipes. Check out digger's exhaust thread.

usually a full on race engine with big overlap cam can make good midrange and topend with a short collector length but longer length seems to produce best overall power spread with bmw sixes, individual results may vary though

[kamotors]

get this things running on ITB's:) I want to see if you have the same issues as mine.

[icebox]

What suspension setup are you on? thanks

[tinkerputzer]

Where would the optimal place be for the merge?

It's somewhat engine dependent but iirc it's somewhere around 30" from the end of the primary pipes. Check out digger's exhaust thread.

[MPLFoster]

You're going to be missing out on some low end power with the y-pipe that close to the primaries. I like the direction of this build though.

Where would the optimal place be for the merge?

[318aye]

Very nice. The exhaust looks great and sounds pretty mean. Definitely impressed with how you handled fitting those headers. Nice work.

I tried the topspeed headers earlier this week but was disappointed with the fit, which was damn near exactly the same fit as yours, so i returned them. They immediately accepted the return, no questions asked.

I just used a couple 1141 resonators too. They're a little tall but work well. They do a great job of mellowing out the exhaust note.

Great work so far, man. Keep it up. :up:

Yeah, topspeed didn't hassle me on the return front whatsoever. They approved it through ebay as soon as I asked. I knew that longtube headers and a full exhaust were going to be part of this project, and when it came time to make my decision, the IE headers still weren't available and there was nothing floating around used so I went for it.

If anyone is in the market now, I'd grab a set of IE's before they disappear for 8 months again. Definitely worth the $500, I would have spent way more if I didn't have the ability to modify them myself.

The dual 1141's are amazing. I seriously didn't think an exhaust could be so manageable while cruising and so nasty at WOT.

Thanks for the kind words!

Nice extensions on the muffler tip lol. Sounds good :up:

Yeah....... I told him a shorter rear resonator was ok, but I wasn't expecting it to be so far forward. I'm guessing he mounted it there to better utilize the factory hangers which is fine by me.

I may also end up going to a dual tip in the future, but I always wanted to try the single tip. This will do for now.