Nice! I was thinking about doing white too for my block. Any reason you did?
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Si vis pacem, para bellum.
New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
Defunct (sold): Alta Vista
79 Bronco SHTF Build -
Subscribed! Very cool build!
Check out my Alpine's DEAD build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=348571
E36 M3 Build thread http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=597637Comment
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Sweet build, congrats on doing everything right the first time. If you haven't torqued the head down yet, you may want to o-ring the block. The o-rings plus your ARP studs allow more boost with fewer worries."If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."
-Dr. Paul Forrester
Do I LOOK like I need a psychological evaluation???Comment
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Well! It's be quite awhile sense the last update so I figure its about time! Sense the update there have been ups and downs and in betweens. Family circumstances have delayed some parts of this build and thought I've been piecing together the build part by part I still have a lot to do, however sense the last update heres what has happened.
It took a while but I was finally able to get all of my double row timing pieces together. I got the parts in and realized the cam sprocket I received was too small. Teset fitting it and using a micrometer I took it to a shop and they took off 10thousands so that it would fit properly. https://vimeo.com/129835821
Once I got the timing set I was able to start focusing on actually taking out the block in my e30. It took us about 3 hours but we were able to successfully remove the tranny, engine, and exhaust from the chasis.
Once the engine was out I took of all the accessories from my old block, cleaned them and gave them all a fresh coat of paint! This sucked! I let the parts soak in hot dawn water and brushed 90% of the grime away, which isn't easy considering its 31 years worth. Then I put all the brackets and non electrical parts in the dish washer, don't tell me mom! Made them look brand new, and with a fresh coat of black paint a total transformation.
Heres the old block for reference with all the accessories off.
Now of course to the fun part! My turbo! Yes it came in along with my manifold, which GoodnTight here made. And he did an AMAZING job!
So originally I said i was getting a Garrett Gt2871 right? Well the shop I ordered it from made a mistake with my order and gave me the run around, I got my turbo a month later but no the gt2871. They upgraded me for free to a GTX2867R. A much better turbo for the same price!
So i decided to go Tial externally waste gated housing for sake of having a better housing. Also went V-band because why not!? Heres my housing
And here is the manifold GoodNTight made for me! So beautiful! Can't wait!
Now I have ordered a short shift kit with all new bushing and shat not for my tranny. I'm doing a dtm style selecting rod. Ordered them from Garagistic, those parts will be here soon and will post a picture when it all arives! I also need to order my clutch, haven't figured out which clutch I want yet.
But so far theres where I am, I have much more to come! Next purchase is my radiator kit. Mishimoto e36 M3 aluminum radiator with electric fan! 😁
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Nice manifoldNASA
BMWCCA member
PCA member 25yrs
1991 318IS slick top
1997 M3 sedan
2001 325CI DD
“whoever turns the wheel the least, wins"Comment
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^What he said! That thing looks pretty as heck. Good progress, I applaud you for sticking with an M10, I once considered a blow-thru carbed and turbo'd M10 but it was way too much hassle. One day ;)1990 325i Touring - The Bonsai Bimmer - Patiently Waiting
1984 316 Coupe - The Base Model - Pain in the Ass
1988 750iL - The Daily Driver
...And a couple others...Comment
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Question for anyone who can answer this?! Is it normal after torquing down the crankshaft pully to the crank that its hard to turn the engine by hand? Its easy with a rachet but by hand hard. Without it torqued down it can be done by hand no problem
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The pulley connects to the crank balancing wheel, both the crank and the wheel all turn as one...there should be zero difference by tightening the wheel to spec. It IS adding rotational weight and that could be what you're feeling. Same concept as spinning a brake rotor then installing the wheel and spinning it, you will need more effort to move due to the weight gain and size.
The only thing that will give resistance is installing a head, manifold and plugs, that will give you compression.
Make sure your crankshaft seal is seated and clearing properly, I know the flywheel has a spacer...don't quote me on this but I believe that the pulley acts as the spacer in the front. Again that should make zero difference since the crankshaft bolt gets like 400-420nm for spec.~ Puch Cafe. ~ Do business? feedback ~ Check out my leather company ~
Instagram: @BWeissLeather
Current cars:
~ '87 325 M30B35 swap
~ '87 535
~ 01 540 Msport 6spd
~ '06 X5 4.8isComment
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i always love seeing people keeping the m10s around, by far one of my favorite engines.Comment
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I don't think it's rotation weight, because with the crank pulley on without the nut I can rotate the engine without too much effort. With the nut impacted on I can't rotate it by hand, but with a ratchet it's easy. Its binding somewhere. I think the pulley is pressing against the timing cover or crank seal somehow. I'm lost because it's literally the same as the old engine, except that I have a double row timing chain now but that shouldn't affect it.
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It's definitely an underrated engine. People too often swap em out and mark them up as worthless 1.8s. When really they have soo much potential. I'm glad I didn't swap out the engine. Granted I'm spending a lot more money than what a swap would be. But totally worth it.
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