boogle2's '88 iX Restoration/Turbo Cherry Pop

[boogle2]

So I think I am getting closer. I pulled apart the connectors at the switch and reseated the wires. Did a bunch of other fumbling around with the multimeter and finally got it to work. However, after I put the regulator back in, the window had a tough time going up, and jammed near the top. I rolled it back down, tried it again, and it went a little further, but got stuck. Nothing was in the way of the reg. And then, poof. The motor doesn't even budge now. This is exactly reminiscent of how it stopped working the day I bought it!

I am assuming that the contacts are getting burned out from the high load from the motor, but why is this regulator/window jamming up?

I don't know whats going on.

[boogle2]

So, after much screwing around, I finally figured it out. I cut into the harness on either side of the door to test for continuity, and determined the broken circuit was occurring at the door connector.

To unplug the door connector, peel back the rubber boot, unplug the white "T" plug piece on the top, get two sets of bullnose pliers and grab the two tabs. Pull them towards each other and out away from the door. I wiggled for hours before figuring out this method and it works perfect.

I saw that I had a burnt out and corroded pin, which just happened to be the one carrying power to the motor.



So I used CLR, contact cleaner, and a wire brush and cleaned up all contacts. I soldered the harness back together, reassembled the regulator and door, and POW! works! However, the motor seemed tired, so I ordered a new one, removed the regulator, popped on the new motor, and put it back in.

Works perfectly now. No hesitation, not sticking. Its great.

I went on to rebuild both lock cylinders on driver/passenger doors. They now turn, however, only the passenger side functions the central locking. Driver door doesn't, and doesn't seem to turn like the passenger side. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Now, on to the timing belt replacement. Just got the cooling system removed tonight. Little ways to go yet. Things are coming slow but sure.

[Nisse Järnet]

Yet another ix, cool! :)

[boogle2]

Anybody have any suggestions for this t belt change I am doing as for "while I am in there" work?

I plan on doing:
Thermostat
Water pump
Alternator
Head gasket
Cam seals
Distributor/rotor
All water pipes changed

Anything else?



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[AwakenNoMore]

valve stem seals too

[boogle2]

That's going to be pushing the limits of my mechanic skills, but I guess that's what this project is all about, haha.

What do I need for that, just a spring compressor?




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[Nisse Järnet]

Yeah thats enough, its a pretty easy job :)

I wouldnt replace the alternator if its not bad btw.

[boogle2]

The alternator bearings are shot. They just scream. Diagnosed with a stethoscope. I looked around to buy just the bearings and to buy both of them is almost the cost of just a new alternator so I figured why not.


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[boogle2]

Nisse, any thoughts on this:

Did a compression test tonight just before I pulled off the timing belt (car was cold, as I have most of the front end engine equipment off) and my compression ranged from 135-145 across the cylinders. Only one cylinder was at 135. First time running a compression test on this motor, but does that seem low? Have you ever run a test on a cold m20?

I don't want to have to rebuild this thing just yet! Haha.

[boogle2]

So I finished up the timing belt, and got everything back together. Small hiccup leaving the water pump pulley loose, but no big deal.

I also changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil, and spark plugs. Car seems to run smoother, but I still have a tip-in hesitation. I haven't diagnosed any intake leaks, but that is next. I also replaced the thermostat while I was at it.

Fuel filter looks gross:


Once the car was back together, moved it over the the girlfriends garage as I am running out of space. Also built this shelvign unit to store my mitre saw and organize other garage stuff to keep things tidy. Designed it to have a slide out work height such that you can lay wood across it flat. In other words, it has the proper recess for the miter saw. Also has hanging shelves so that it still has usable storage space that doesnt have to be moved when the saw is requried.



Ordered and received a spare iX drivetrain from a crashed '91. Was told everything works, but who knows.


Engine up, and ready to be mounted.



Ready to start tearing down the block. I will be building this into a hopefully indestructible turbo running 400 hp. Going to go forged internals and high strength wrist pins and bearings. I know I don't need to, but I want to.

This is my first engine build and I just want to do it right.

Headers off, one nasty stud that didnt want to come loose.



Got the front of the motor off now, along with the front diff from the pan. Just need to disassemble the other side and we'll be ready to remove the head and send everything off to the machine shop.

[boogle2]

Untitled by Rob Schuh, on Flickr

block all stripped down and started to degrease everything. The bitch tube from this motor didnt have any o-rings, is that correct? Just had a washer on the block side, nothing on the manifold end.

Also, will a chemical dip take off all this baked on black crud? I'm not sure if its old paint or rusted/baked crud/oil. Whatever it is, it didnt really want to come off with varsol and a wire brush, so its on there pretty good.

Untitled by Rob Schuh, on Flickr

Next I will strip off the head, oil pump gear, lower crank cover, crank bolt, and oil pan.

Let me know if I need to add anything to my shopping list for small hard to remember items:

- intermediate shaft bearings
- oil pump shaft needle bearing
- freeze plugs (assume all are the same?)
- distributor cover seal and bearing

[boogle2]

Small update. I finally got around to replacing my transfer case with a spare one I had lying around. It was a bear to get out for a first timer, but it went back in much smoother. No more leaks! I probably wont get around to splitting the cases and resealing the one I just removed until the spring.

I also got to work on all the little nagging things that were bothering me. I used this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLWYCEm1AYY to help me fix my hood latch. Terrible video but it helps you understand the parts. I just heated up the end stopper, and slid it a little further down and re-crimped the end cable to shorten it up. Works perfectly now, and no more screw driver access for me!

I also fixed the central locking and door locks, as well as fixing the trunk lock.

My spare block is still sitting stripped down, and waiting to go to the machine shop. I haven't completely decided what to do with it yet, so I am still waiting.

I still have a small issue with off-bottom throttle response when cold, so I will be replacing the coolant temp sensor and o2 sensor.

But it's driveable now! Booting around in this thing is so fun. To get excited when I drive the M5 or 335i, before you know it you're doing 150km/hr on residential roads. The speeds feel like nothing. The e30 throws your hair straight back and your hardly breaking 80! I love it. I cant wait for more power.

[boogle2]

So since it has been winter I have made very little progress. I have started to pick it back up though.

As a beginner electrical project, I removed my factory stereo, and followed an online tutorial to wire in my own auxillary input. I soldered two leads onto the left and right channel inputs, and then all you do is engage the tape mechanism to trick the radio to think tis getting a tape signal but its really just playing the aux input. It works perfect and sounds really good for free. Also maintains the stock look.





I got my megasquirt ordered. I went with MS3X so that I can go full sequential in the future. Also it makes things like dealing with the PWM idle air control easier and less of a fuss. Its just a nice one stop shop.



I also striped apart my spare ECU to make an adapter to go from the stock harness to the MS3X starter harness.



I cobbled together a few different motoronic 55 pin pinouts to give myself the best chance of not screwing up.




Apparently your not supposed to use solid core when wiring up a car (oops). So don't do what I did. I used stranded 18 gauge for all ground wires though. Hopefully it will hold up long enough for me to make a better one.





Starting to wire it into the MS3X harness...

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I also decided to sell my 335i. The old lady picked up a RR sport supercharged so it was hard to justify us having 6 vehicles between the two of us, 3 of which are BMW sedans.



Took the manifold and valve cover in for some sandblasting to bring them back to life. Have to build the throttle body adapter plate for the e36 TPS so I figured I may as well bring everything back to life. I garnet blasted them first to remove all the pitting, and then finished in the glass bead cabinet. The parts literally look brand new, they turned out perfect.






Then I took my spare front driveshaft to get welded up with the spline extensions so that it wont strip out when I add the boost.





Still waiting on a few things before my motor goes to the machine shop. While its getting completed I will be installing the MS3X into the car to get it running standalone on the stock motor.

I sent my injectors off for ultrasonic cleaning to make sure that they wouldnt be suspect when I was tuning the stock N/A motor and having issues (which is likely to happen). Before/after shows they didnt really need it, but its just a nice piece of mind. Look at how poor they are at atomization haha.


Before:

After:

[stonea]

325ix and a M5, mmmm

[boogle2]

325ix and a M5, mmmm

Yeah the e39 I find to be just so bloody good looking. Its infinitely more comfortable than the e90 as well. At least for me. I had the muffler delete done last fall and she sounds real dirty.