Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Designed some stainless steel ducted backing plates for the front brakes so they can have high temp hose adapted to them from the front brake ducts. Initially designed the for myself but figured I could offer them to the community as well. $70 plus shipping.

Here is the thread with all the info: HERE

And some photos of the prototype:

[Bimmerguy91]

Best build thread ever. Finally finished reading through the whole thing!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Best build thread ever. Finally finished reading through the whole thing!

Thank you!


So I continued with the rear budget bbk install. Redrilled the rotors from 4x114 to 4x100. It was easy for the most part. I measured 3x before drilling. There were two holes that were a little tricky though since they overlapped some holes in the rotor which made it hard for the drill bit to stay centered. I used the old rotors as a guide to keep the drill in line. Worked well enough.





Trimmed the dust shields and installed the brackets.





Then I spent a lot of time fussing with the ebrake. Trying to adjust the oem shoes to work (they don't). And then trying to make some 350z shoes work (they do, but with modification and patience). Unfortunately I overdid the modification, and didn't have enough patience and butchered a set of the 350z shoes trying to make them work so I'll revisit this at a later date. No ebrake for now.





I had a set of stainless brake lines for an e36 and luckily they were a match for the e30 as well. Score. Had to make an adapter hardline for the new calipers since they use an inverted metric flare (double flare?). Rented an autozone flare tool since my flare tool only does bubble flares. I don't know how anyone successfully uses these tools to do a double flare. The tool was shit and wouldn't stay centered at all. I finally managed to get some halfway decent flares that "work". Ideally I'll find a place to make custom lines with the 90* hardline incorporated which will eliminate 3 of the joints.





Here are some comparitive photos of the new parts.





Had to pick up some hardware that I didn't realize I was missing until I tried to install pads :p The pins were something silly like $12 new each. I found stainless pins of the right size on mcmaster for $5 for a pack of 5.





Here they are installed. I went with some hawk hps pads for now.





I am in the process of bleeding the system now. I also replaced the original, suspected 28 year old MC with a new ate 22/22 unit which should pair well with the now larger rear pistons/calipers.



While the car was on stands I also changed the oil. Went from rotella t6 5w40 to the liquimoly 10w60 attempting to reduce lifter tick after aggressive driving. I also sent the last two samples of oil (both were t6) from the e30 to blackstone. It will be nice to compare the next analysis of the liquimoly to the t6.

Here's the magnetic plug. I had about 8k miles on this oil which is a bit more than I'd prefer, but since I haven't been doing any racing lately I am not as concerned.



After a wipe





Also added this to the oil fwiw





Noticed the feed to my clutch master is leaking ever so slightly, and the sheet metal above it is cracked and flexes. This may be my "weird clutch behavior" issue. Pedal box will have to come out to be repaired.

Not much else to update, though some of the next ones will be fun. I've needed some fresh rubber for a while. The dz2s are toast and nearly down to the wires. I picked up a set of tires at a great deal last weekend. They're very sticky and rather meaty. Might need some new shoes to go with them and in case the new shoes + tires don't fit, I have a contingency plan wrapped in bubble wrap in the back of the garage :devil:

[TeXJ]

love this build

[Mushroom Stew]

love this build

as do i

[Sh3rpak!ng]

love this build

as do i

thanks guys :D



Pretty sure I found my elusive clutch issue. The pedal box was cracked about 2/3 of the way down the flange where the clutch master bolts in place. I pressed it by hand to see how much it was flexing. At about an inch of travel, it had flexed a good 15mm or so which was placing the MC shaft on quite an angle.







Good as new





The clutch feels much better now. I'm still monitoring it but I think this resolved the issue. Also the brakes feel AWESOME after getting the whole system bled and bedded in. Very happy about that.



Here's a tease. The wheels for these bad boys arrive today

[wworm]

oh man! in 4 updates

[salvageland]

Yo Charlie, SpeedHunters article is out!

http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/09/speedhunting-mean/

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Yo Charlie, SpeedHunters article is out!
http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/09/speedhunting-mean/

Thanks for sharing the link man! I gave up thinking it was going to be published. When did we do that drive? Feels like ages ago.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

[SkiFree]

Nice spot of coverage there on Speedhunters.

As for those brake hardline. I've got a fancy flare tool, you need to come over some evening and we'll get the hard lines sorted properly.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Nice spot of coverage there on Speedhunters.

As for those brake hardline. I've got a fancy flare tool, you need to come over some evening and we'll get the hard lines sorted properly.

Thanks Adam. Good to know for the flaring. Those inverted flares were a real pita. I'm looking to have some custom braided lines made that'll directly connect the oem hardline directly into the caliper.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

[Digitalwave]

That's crazy about the cracked pedal box. I've never seen that happen. I hope that ends up being the source of all the clutch issues.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

That's crazy about the cracked pedal box. I've never seen that happen. I hope that ends up being the source of all the clutch issues.

Me too. It's incredibly irritating.

The pedal feels much better but there's definitely still a bit of inconsistent engagement. I took the return spring out. Without it, the pedal naturally comes up about 1/4" short of full extension. If I manually pull the pedal up to the top and then push it to release the clutch, the clutch engagement is a bit higher than if I did nothing.

[2mAn]

Thanks Andrew. Good to know for the flaring. Those inverted flares were a real pita. I'm looking to have some custom braided lines made that'll directly connect the oem hardline directly into the caliper.

ftfy

Andrew is a good guy. He has helped me so much with all of my BMW projects. You should definitely visit him. Trust me

[Sh3rpak!ng]

ftfy

Andrew is a good guy. He has helped me so much with all of my BMW projects. You should definitely visit him. Trust me

I know him quite well. He's already helped me on some stuff :) And I agree, great guy.