Excited to see this come back together.
Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey
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ABS relocation turned out awesome!
How hard is it bending the lines? I'm going to have to do that eventually also and am just curious as to your method.Comment
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Wow. A couple more weekends and you should be driving her again. Good job.How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611
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Me too!! I'm getting very excited
Thanks man!! Very soon!Comment
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Im driving up to Reseda on Wednesday night, I wouldnt mind dropping by to see what you're up to. Text me detailsSimon
Current Cars:
-1966 Lotus Elan
-1986 German Car
-2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI
Make R3V Great Again -2020Comment
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How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611
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Installed the front rotors and calipers and bled the whole system. The pedal still feels kinda soft and I bet there's probably still air in the lines. Maybe need to trip the abs pump relay to get it to cycle and bleed any air trapped in it? Otherwise it went smoothly with only one leak where I forgot to tighten a fitting. Still not 100% happy with the fluid reservoir placement even though I'll make a nice bracket for it to bolt onto one of the strut studs.
Cleaned up the super secret rare obd1 obd2 hybrid fuel rail. It has the fuel feed and return at the rear like obd2, and the fpr mounted on the rail like obd1 so I can run a fuel rail beauty cover, get the fuel lines out of the way to the rear, and not plump in a clunky running loss valve or some other adapter device for the fpr.
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Solid updates!Comment
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Why not make a bracket for the fluid reservoir connect to the strut bar?
Are you still selling your AC stuff? I started my mock up for my AC and I found out I don't have the front two lines that connect to the condenser.How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611
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Thanks!
And yes, still selling AC stuff. Just haven't gotten around to posting it. I have all NEW OEM parts to do a 134a conversion for an m20 or a 134a conversion for a swapped car minus compressor.
So I put the wheels on the car. Big step. Haven't had wheels on it for months.
Then I added some more parts to the picture.
And a couple more.
And a few more after that
Voila.
I couldn't be happier. It looks way better than I ever thought it would. It started up on the first crank after priming fuel.
I drove it
Naturally there are some small "issues" that'll need attention. First the brakes. I've got to believe there is still a substantial amount of air in the lines. Pedal feels springy and I can push it to the floor (with force) and it doesn't lock the wheels. More like "slows" the car. I'm thinking I need to bleed the abs pump. Second is the clutch engagement window and point. At the moment, the engagement point is quickly followed by a grinding noise/feeling which I am 99.9% sure is the pivot fork hitting the pressure plate. I already knew that I've been using the wrong pivot fork (I have a 95 m3 pressure plate which is a little shorter, requiring a slightly different pivot fork), but I've been driving with this same setup since the beginning without any issues. The only physical difference between now and then is the flywheel getting a new friction surface. For now I've set the clutch stop so I don't press the clutch too far. I actually have the correct fork, but forgot to swap them when the transmission was out.Comment
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It looks great. Are you going to paint the core support?
PM me prices for what you have for sale.How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611
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