Power-curve straightened...

[Ether-D]

The pump is 100psi. The solenoid triggers at 4psi. And Taco, all I do is rig shit.

[TheTacoMan]

The pump is 100psi. The solenoid triggers at 4psi. And Taco, all I do is ghetto rig shit.

Haha, I mean if it works then why not. :)

[Ether-D]

Yeah man. The injector is a ultra-fine mist/fog nozzle with a full-cone spray pattern, 1gph @100psi. The hose in the pic is 250psi air hose sold by the foot at the hardware store. It works wonderfully for the supply line (before the solenoid), but not so much for the line after the solenoid (the ones going to the injectors). It got replaced with hard plastic 1/4"od line (used for ice maker feed lines). Yes, a lot of the things I've used do come from the hardware store, but that's the point. I like to figure out what the people selling the kits use, and source it for half the money. It's like a little game for me. I want the people on r3v with shallow pockets (like me), to be able to do cool shit to their cars while spending half of what the other guys spend on the kits. I just use my ingenuity to make up the other half of the money required for the kit.

[Ether-D]

When my kids go back to their mom's house on Saturday, I'm gonna do a run with the methanol and a run without on my phone dyno app. That should show how much difference there is. I can feel something, but it's a marginal improvement at best. I'm currently using 1/4 of the fluid recommended on the net. Which may have something to do with it, or I may not be quite to 130 degrees intake temperature which is where the timing starts getting pulled by the MS2 (because it's only 80 degrees here today). Anyway, more nozzles!! Good thing I got ten of them for $15…

[Lithium]

I researched the methanol injection last night and found this website. I like his theory, so I found comparable stuff on ebay and purchased it. The main parts of the system (pump, nozzles, solenoid valve, and pressure switch) cost me $73. There will be several plumbing and wiring additions, but I see this setup being quite a bit more affordable than the kits on ebay.

More info on the components you picked up on eBay please.
I think this is brilliant & want to something similar to mine.
Thanks!

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Awesome haha. Question though why not run e85?

[varg]

This is cool, I want to see it twincharged!

Yeah, I gotta research which turbos do what. I really have zero idea which turbo I need.

You need one that flows a lot, efficiently, at low boost levels, unless you're planning on running really high manifold pressure and making that supercharger work really hard and run really hot.

IIRC, and you probably already know this, the pressure ratios multiply. So if you're running 14.7psi from the turbo (2.0PR) and 10psi at the supercharger (1.68PR) when considered as separate systems you'll be cramming 34.7psi of boost in to the ports when they're working in conjunction. NICE.

[Ether-D]

E85? well I haven't researched it, but I live in a rather rural area, and I almost never see it.

More info on the components you picked up on eBay please.
I think this is brilliant & want to something similar to mine.
Thanks!

Lithium, and Varg and Thatoneeuro, thanks for the encouragement. Here's the ebay parts:

Nozzles

Pressure switch

Solenoid valve

Pump

The rest is plumbing parts from the hardware store.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Ah it's made from corn so Nebraska has just a little bit of it. Cheaper then meth to

[The Dark Side of Will]

That's awesome, can't believe it was hitting 6 psi at 2k. Why'd the boost drop with the 2.7?

The blower moves an amount of air based on the drive ratio. Swap out an engine that moves more air without turning the blower faster so it moves more air and boost will drop.

A blower turning at 10000 RPM will move XXX CFM. A 2.5 turning at 6000 RPM will move YYY CFM. A 2.7 turning at 6000 RPM will more (2.7/2.5)*YYY CFM.

XXX/YYY ~ pressure ratio on 2.5 liter
XXX/(YYY*2.7/2.5) ~ pressure ratio on 2.7 liter. Since the denominator's bigger, the pressure ratio is smaller.

//

Really curious about dyno numbers.

//

Twin charging compounds the INefficiencies of the compressors... so if your turbo is 80% efficient and your blower is 60% efficient, your combined system efficiency will only be 48%... that means more energy will go into heating the air than compressing it... not good; temps skyrocket as you turn the boost up. That's why it's best to keep the blower at low boost and if you can, get a turbo that peaks upwards of 90% efficiency.

[Lithium]

Thanks for the eBay links!!!!
Much appreciated ($15 pump = KillA!!!)

[Ether-D]

No problem bro.

And for future posters: Please no hate on the eBay parts for this (key word) "experiment". I'll find out for myself if it'll never work. I know I need to spend at least double if I want this to actually work.

[Ether-D]

Mmmk, I removed the m90 to get to the inside of the manifold. I needed in there so as to control the spread of aluminum shavings whilst drilling holes for the added methanol nozzles. When I put it back on, I used silicone instead of the paper gasket and got a full psi back. Now it's at a consistent 7psi peaking at about 7.5 :) .

I did a bit of messing around with a scrap piece of aluminum and some rubber grommets before I drilled the mani.



I then lined it up and drilled. Made a "hold-down" out of an old trans/exhaust bracket and it looks like this now.



I ended up having to remove the pre-throttle body nozzle (in the pic below) because it was allowing air to bypass the throttle body when not in boost, causing the remaining methanol/water in the tube (after the solenoid) to get sucked into the intake manifold, causing a delay getting the mix to enter the intake the next time it was triggered. Live und learn!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I ended up having to remove the pre-throttle body nozzle (in the pic below) because it was allowing air to bypass the throttle body when not in boost, causing the remaining methanol/water in the tube (after the solenoid) to get sucked into the intake manifold, causing a delay getting the mix to enter the intake the next time it was triggered. Live und learn!

Couldn't you add check valves right before the nozzles to keep them primed so you get immediate spray response? and avoid siphoning the liquid from the lines?

[Ether-D]

Couldn't you add check valves right before the nozzles to keep them primed so you get immediate spray response? and avoid siphoning the liquid from the lines?

Yeah, I think that would work. I may add them in the future. Right now the methanol is just acting as a safeguard for the non-refined tune it's running on.