Matracer's project: BRONZIT S52 - DYNO RESULTS P.8
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It's running!! And pretty good... it hadn't ran for 3 years and the lifters were discharged... sounded like a diesel for like 5-10 min and then everything went just fine

I really like how it sounds! Will video it soon and share it!!Leave a comment:
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So engine is In! The S52 will be driven on OBD1. I know that OBD1 is dumb compared to OBD2, but since I had all the required stuff for OBD1 and not for OBD2, I went with OBD1...
Here is all the OBD1 stuff that I needed:
Intake, throttle body and related sensors
Cam sensor
crank sensor
Knock sensors (don't know if really required but had them so...)
collant hose with timing chain cover adapter tube
head cover and coils to run the OBD1 oil vapor stuff
vanos solenoid for its long wire
DME engine temp sender
all the wiring
413 DME with TMS chip
Kept my S50 oil filter housing (because its polished!) so don't really know it I would have needed to change the oil pressure switch... I guest yes...
Since I have a VDO coolant temp gauge with a sender adapted for the throttle heating port o nthe head, I need to find a way to add the cluster temp gauge sender... Will do this later.
Should be cranking it soon!!!Leave a comment:
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Concluded that it should be fine. Everything works properly and the force needed to actuate the vanos should be less with engine running and we'll lubricated. Engine finally fully sealed! Also, installed new exhaust studs and OBD1 vanos solenoid for its long wire, OBD1 knock and cam sensors. OBD1 valve cover is also on.

Last edited by MatRacer; 04-27-2016, 11:18 AM.Leave a comment:
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finally reassembled the cams after doing all 24 valves seals. timed the cams. while there, checked the actuation of the vanos with air. My regulator was set at 60psi. The vanos was doing its job, but the vanos structure or frame or call it as you wish is flexing enough for me to notice it when actuating the vanos solenoid! Is this normal?Leave a comment:
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Did 8 valve seals tonight. They are a pain to remove!
Dropped one retainer lock in an oil return conduit[emoji35]
But I have a magnetic oil drain plug!!

Pretty lucky!! Haha!Leave a comment:
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Already did the rear main seal. The front one is dry so it will stay as is... never thought about the chain guide... maybe the top chain tensioner will be replaced.Leave a comment:
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Think about replacing the chain guides, along with the rear and front crank seals. I went ahead and replaced EVERY seal when I rebuilt mine. So much easier when it's out. Especially the rear main....Leave a comment:
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Yeah... pretty bad! Bent a rod during cranking because of a leaking injector... didn't notice... 2 weeks later broken Rod on the "local" track... same cylinder than the one that had hydraulocked. ..
Now on the good things!
E34 pan on, and replacing the valve seal this week. Wanted to do this because Like 3-4 years ago I did the valve retainers on my s50... while there I also did the seals. The old ones where all dried up and cracked...

After the first cam up, inspected the seal and they seams in pretty good shape... but will probably do them anyway since my timing is already messed up and one cam is removed... will sleep on this!Leave a comment:
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Yeah... pretty bad! Bent a rod during cranking because of a leaking injector... didn't notice... 2 weeks later broken Rod on the "local" track... same cylinder than the one that had hydraulocked. ..Leave a comment:
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damn, that block carnage is nutty! but cant wait to see the progress!Leave a comment:


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