T-Erz remote mount turbo e30 revival thread

[grinchxvx]

I like what I'm seeing

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Thanks sir, it's coming along. I wish it wasn't so god damn cold so I could work on it outside. It's kind of hard to get time at work with how busy it is most the time.


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[grinchxvx]

BMA SS brake lines showed up! My stock lines look tired as hell so I figured I would upgrade while I was going to be bleeding the brakes anyway. They look super high quality for the price


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[grinchxvx]

Can anyone help me with this compressor map?

I just finished my DIY boost controller and I'm about to turn up the boost to 10 PSI, from what I understand the PR (pressure ratio) at 10 psi is 1.68
After following that point over looks like the maximum CFM it will allow is just under 350.
After researching I'm seeing that an m20 put out about 375 at 6000 rpm.
Since this turbo is so small and had a weird efficiency range is it pointless to rev the car past a certain rpm? And if so what rpm is that? I'm trying to get the math down but it's a lot to figure out

I've noticed in the first few gears it feels like the car stops pulling after 6000 RPM's. I'm guessing that's because the CFMs are so high it's just making the compressor choke and generate un needed heat?


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[grinchxvx]

Referenced Info from this thread

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=275180

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[TimeMachinE30]

Brake lines appear to be a general house brand. I got a set from FCP Euro... just comes down to finding best price.

[grinchxvx]

Got my motor today 😈
obd2 m52 turbo in the works, 500 whp is the goal


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[grinchxvx]

So the m52 is at my work now waiting to get put on the stand. Its believed to be running before it was pulled and was super cheap but I want to make sure it's in good shape before I throw 700 dollars worth of Gaskets and hardware on it.

What tests and things should I look at to make sure it's in good shape? The machine shop who is doing the work will be pressure testing the head but what about the block?
I was thinking Leakdown and compression test but I don't know how it would work with the motor out of the car. Obviously I'll pull the valve cover and oil pan to take a look too.


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[grinchxvx]

Bump, she's on the stand.
I need to re adjust it because the flywheel bolts are touching the stand and therefore I can't turn it over to do a compression test.

Also a few accessory belts snapped on my way home from work so I'm driving my other car while I wait for a chance to replace them and start working on the e30 again. I have a ton of parts sitting in my room waiting to go on just no time yet to put them on :,(


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[grinchxvx]

Did a good amount of stuff today:Got the alternator/waterpump belt replaced, couldn't do the AC or power steering so I'm rolling without those for now. I kind of like not having power steering so I'm thinking of just getting rid of it depending on how much it weighs 😎

Also got my slightlystancedbmw lip on today, fits well and looks good for the price. My only complaint is I wish there was more material on the top inside edge so you could drill holes and use some self tappers or other hardware so you don't have to rely on the clips.

Did a quick oil change with Mobil 1 0w-40.

Got my homemade boost controller in and turned up the boost a little, hitting 7ish psi now and it feels a bit better 😎



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[grinchxvx]

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[grinchxvx]

Got the valve cover off and checked everything out, everything is decent clean and still has the gold color. Leakdown test up next to make sure the motor is in good shape

Anything else I should look at?


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[grinchxvx]

Just did a leak down test and now I'm pretty confused:

I followed this video: http://youtu.be/ofSiTGeLXvc

Got cylinder one to TDC, verified by mark on front of crank pulley, also looked at cams and they're both at 45 degrees facing eachother inward
Here are the results:
.

I got readings around 70% on every cylinder but I don't hear air leaking from anywhere. When I turn the regulator up on the tester to 100 psi the gauge doesn't even move from the white area but then I can hear air leaking from somewhere. I don't know if this Leakdown tester is crapping out or what but I don't get it.


Any insight? In that video he zeros out to tester before hooking it up to the hose in the spark plug hole but I'm hearing I need to turn it up to 100 psi.

Should a motor be leaking any air at all? Because with the regulator wide open it definitely leaks from inside the valve cover but maybe I'm messing TDC up?


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[grinchxvx]

Finished up most the body work on the back right quarter :)

Bad news is I hit a ice chunk in the road today and ripped off my oil cooler which then pumped out all my oil, going to replace the cooler and fill it with oil and see if it runs. If not then Yolo I guess, the m52 will be going in soon I hope. I'm pretty sure something was wrong with the tester I used so I'm just going to go with the motor I have and have he machine shop pressure test the head when I send it over


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[grinchxvx]

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[grinchxvx]

Here's how the car is currently sitting

I pulled off the oil filter and oil cooler lines on Sunday and the lines are pretty munched up on the ends and no junkyards have anything so I decided to just get rid of the cooler.

I ordered the "spud" off a 325e to run without a cooler and it just showed up at the dealership today so I'll go grab that at lunch and try to get everything back together by Saturday. I'm hoping I didn't toast the rod bearing or anything. It wasn't ran bone dry without oil so I'm hoping this tractor motor is still ok [emoji102]


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