T-Erz remote mount turbo e30 revival thread

[varg]

I still haven't checked for boost leaks but What I don't understand is how the car is so laggy down low with such a small AR but manages to hit the boost target of 5 psi up top and hold it there. You would think that with a boost leak it wouldn't even be able to meet the pressure of 5 psi.

Also another thing I noticed driving the car the last few days is in 1st and 2nd full boost doesn't come on till 4500rpm or so but in 3rd and on it hits 5 psi at 3000 rpm? Does it have to do with the gearing?

It's really throwing me off because my 135i hits full boost at 3000 rpm or less in any gear and doesn't really change spool much dependent on gear I'm in��

While that is a small A/R housing and the T3 stage 3 turbine wheel is not too big for a 2.5, it's laggy because the exhaust gasses have cooled and lost a lot of velocity by the time they get to the turbine. It is common to not reach full boost as quickly in first and second, this setup just exacerbates that. There is also a good likelihood of there being an exhaust leak somewhere. As for this vs your 135, you're talking about a pretty inefficient mounting scheme and a 20-30 year old turbo design, it just doesn't compare to a modern, CFD designed twin turbo system with all of the benefits of excellent head flow and high compression ratio in any way.

[grinchxvx]

While that is a small A/R housing and the T3 stage 3 turbine wheel is not too big for a 2.5, it's laggy because the exhaust gasses have cooled and lost a lot of velocity by the time they get to the turbine. It is common to not reach full boost as quickly in first and second, this setup just exacerbates that. There is also a good likelihood of there being an exhaust leak somewhere. As for this vs your 135, you're talking about a pretty inefficient mounting scheme and a 20-30 year old turbo design, it just doesn't compare to a modern, CFD designed twin turbo system with all of the benefits of excellent head flow and high compression ratio in any way.

Would a shorter gearing fix that a little or is it not worth it? I want to get an LSD but I kind of like the way the car feels on the freeway and such. The car pulls pretty good from 3rd gear and on. I'll check for exhaust leaks again but I already felt around the joints and listened for any when I had it on the lift running at the same time I fixed the shifter linkage. I still want to check for boost leaks anyway just to be sure.

Would 10 psi on this little guy vs the 5 now still be safe? I know they say "10 psi" is the limit on stock head gasket/studs but most people run higher flowing turbos like those hx35/40 at 10 psi no problem so I wouldn't think it's nearly as much on this turbo. If I could pick up another 50 hp from an extra 5 psi while I cleaned up the body and do Suspension I would be stoked.

I don't have a real way To tune it but I talked to tcd and they said their chip will retard the timing advance enough for that so I'm good on that side. I'm running 11.00 AFR at wot according to my AEM and 12.25 partial throttle or load in normal cruising conditions.


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[varg]

A higher rear end ratio might improve acceleration but it would make the low boost in low gears worse. I don't see why 10psi would be unsafe in your situation. Go for it. You won't pick up 50hp though. 11:1 is very rich for 5psi of boost on am M20, even for a conservative tune, and 12.25 under partial throttle or cruise is extremely rich.

[downforce22]

i would ditch the remote mount setup. tons of added complexity and less than optimal design that is probably causing all of our issues.

Read up on some turbo design. As has been pointed out, heat is energy and mounting the turbo at the back of the car when there is plenty of space to mount it under the engine bay wastes lots of energy. Not to mention takes more time to spool it due to the increased volume in the charge piping.

http://www.theturboforums.com/content/157-TheTurboForums-com-complete-Turbocharging-guide#turboplacement

Plus, how does the turbo get oil? Do you have ten foot oil lines going to and form the turbo? How does it drain? Tons of added complexity for no reason when you could have a decent setup. You're talking about putting duct tape on a bleeding wound by changing the rear end. It may give you the desired results but it is far from the optimal solution.

Take a minute and think do you want it to just work or to actually be a decent setup.

[grinchxvx]

A higher rear end ratio might improve acceleration but it would make the low boost in low gears worse. I don't see why 10psi would be unsafe in your situation. Go for it. You won't pick up 50hp though. 11:1 is very rich for 5psi of boost on am M20, even for a conservative tune, and 12.25 under partial throttle or cruise is extremely rich.

I can mess with the AFM after I turn up the boost but the only thing running rich could cause is some misfires and bad idle right? I definitely want it to have good AFR's but right now it's safe so I'm fine with that.


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[grinchxvx]

i would ditch the remote mount setup. tons of added complexity and less than optimal design that is probably causing all of our issues.

Read up on some turbo design. As has been pointed out, heat is energy and mounting the turbo at the back of the car when there is plenty of space to mount it under the engine bay wastes lots of energy. Not to mention takes more time to spool it due to the increased volume in the charge piping.

http://www.theturboforums.com/content/157-TheTurboForums-com-complete-Turbocharging-guide#turboplacement

Plus, how does the turbo get oil? Do you have ten foot oil lines going to and form the turbo? How does it drain? Tons of added complexity for no reason when you could have a decent setup. You're talking about putting duct tape on a bleeding wound by changing the rear end. It may give you the desired results but it is far from the optimal solution.

Take a minute and think do you want it to just work or to actually be a decent setup.

Maybe if I could get a good deal on a normal manifold setup I would convert it to the proper way but for how cheap the car was the turbo kit was basically free. Plus it's reliable, has been on this same setup for almost 5 years with no issues besides the fuel pump going out a few weeks ago. It may have a bunch of complexity added but I decided I'm going to 24v swap anyway so redoing the m20 setup seems like a waste of money and time to me.
I appreciate the advice though, I definitely would have not done it this way if it was me.


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[grinchxvx]

Helped my buddy get his s50 out of his m3 in preparation to boost it. I figured it would help me know what I'm getting myself into by going 24v swap in the future.

What's up with the two circular connectors by the fuse box in the first pic? I thought there was only supposed to be one since that's what the pnp wiring harnesses are made for, what did I miss?

Also I really liked the idea of going m52 and having more displacement+vanos but the tuning costs of obd1 are a lot cheaper.






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[grinchxvx]

Finally got the last of the tints off, Makes the car look soooo much better. I was going to get them redone to 20% just to keep the interior intact as possible but I don't know if I want to deal with the hassle of safety infection every year since the legal limit is 40% up front.


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[grinchxvx]

Had a slow day at work so had more time to mess with the dent/rust spot on the passenger quarter. Only spent about an hour on it and it was time to pack it up so I sanded it smooth and sprayed some canned primer on it to keep the snow and salt off the bare metal until I have more time to fix it . Still needs more massaging forsure.



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[grinchxvx]

Got a good deal on 4x100 to 5x120 adapters locally so went and picked those up last night, still deciding what wheels I want though. also bought a new IS lip off this forum since mine peaced out on the freeway a few night ago. also picked up the BMA SS brake lines off eBay since I'm going to be bleeding the system anyway I figured I might as well replace my old lines. Spent too much money towards this project In the last few days so now I have to wait till next month for more goodies 😎 hopefully I can finish the body work on the rear quarter this week if it's slow some more at work


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[grinchxvx]

My friend has a set of style 5's these would go great with


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[grinchxvx]

Did a spray out of the color I've been thinking of painting the car with and I think I'm going to go with it. Let's see if anyone can guess it off these toners


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[Northern]

What's up with the two circular connectors by the fuse box in the first pic?

X20/X69/X6031. There are a few wires in X69/X6031 you will need. I'm not sure what the pinouts are for OBD1 cars, but I know in obd2 cars you can pull some of the wires for those out of the harness (ASC-T, carbon canister, tank pressure sensor, and some other crap) and clean them up into one connector.

[grinchxvx]

T-Erz remote mount turbo e30 revival thread

X20/X69/X6031. There are a few wires in X69/X6031 you will need. I'm not sure what the pinouts are for OBD1 cars, but I know in obd2 cars you can pull some of the wires for those out of the harness (ASC-T, carbon canister, tank pressure sensor, and some other crap) and clean them up into one connector.

I asked around and the other One is for the AT trans, makes sense as his car was a auto but it's been swapped


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[kamotors]

I like what I'm seeing

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