85 323i grey market euro - M tech 1 build.

[reelizmpro]

Since I'm running an E90 booster and master, the stock reservoir doesn't quite clear the TPS and it doesn't sit level in the E30 anyway. I saw two ways to solve this logically, remote mount the reservoir or find a reservoir that fit and cleared everything. Thanks to another r3v member, it turns out the 2002 reservoir is a direct fit on the E90 master provided you use smaller grommets. Since it mounts right on top, there's no need to run hoses or fabricate a mounting bracket which is a plus. All that needed to be done was run a longer clutch hose so what I did was use a barbed elbow to join it to another piece of hose. Worked out perfectly and the stock level sensor fits.





Next: time to clean up the wiring with 318i harness covers.

[reelizmpro]

Thanks. Unfortunately, I'm bad at photographing everything I've been doing so I only have a few real updates on putting the finishing touches on the car to get it road worthy.

The shop installed an E36 driveshaft with a backward E30 CSB. This made the shaft from the CSB to the diff take on an angle I didn't like, so out it went in favor of a rebuilt 325e big flange DS. It bolted right in and is straight like it should be. For those interested, here are the differences...



E36 on the left and E30 on the right. You can see the yokes are in different locations. Otherwise, they are virtually identical with the exception of bulge in the front half.

Modified Garagistic DSSR...it was rubbing on the large guibo so I had to shave it down a touch. Problem solved. The shop shaved down the guibo (eyeroll).



Remanufactured GKN stub axles to go with the later style trailing arms and big FAG bearings with reinforced subframe and 3.15 Torsen diff. I initially had a hell of a time getting these in and had read about people having to use a V file to shave down the splines. When reading about this, they often use the word "clean" but what they really mean is shaving down the burrs and "cleaning up" the splines so they slide into the hubs. After about 30 minutes carefully filing down the splines, they went in without too much trouble with a 5lb hammer and block of wood. I ordered the proper tool to pull them into the hub but it arrived later on.





Style 5 on with Blox adapters and new axle nuts and lock plates. I noticed some put the lock plate on and then put the nut on top. This is incorrect. Install the nut and torque to 150 ftlbs, then pound the lock plate over the nut. It will deform around the nut, locking the corners in place.


Next up: redo the brake fluid reservoir setup and bleed the brakes.

[gnmzl]

Coming along nicely, great job on bringing it back.
Button it up, drive the hell out of it and enjoy it! Don't let the setbacks get you.

[efficient]

looks clean

[reelizmpro]

are you CIRRUS?... quit derailing this thread

Barry, why didnt you go with the IX booster?

Couldn't find any locally at the time and people want a lot of money for them. The E90 booster is plentiful and obviously a lot newer.

[2mAn]

please tell me the blue sedans getting an update soon

are you CIRRUS?... quit derailing this thread

Barry, why didnt you go with the IX booster?

[wworm]

when I went to go pick up a SuperETA motor he had over there...

please tell me the blue sedans getting an update soon

[2mAn]

Saw the car at Baileys when I went to go pick up a SuperETA motor he had over there... Looked like it was basically done... but sounds like its at that dreaded 95% done and "5%" left

[reelizmpro]

I had a few set backs caused by bad brake boosters. The 944 porsche booster would get stuck in boost mode and caused the brakes to drag and eventually lock up so I opted for the E90 booster the 2nd time around. Just my luck, the E90 booster had an internal leak. All of this caused me to miss another Socal Vintage. C'est la vie.

Now for some progress...

E90 booster with master cylinder for $50 on ebay. While the initial cost was low, I had to spend $45 on a longer clevis pin fabricated by the guy who posted the write up on this forum.



I decided to have some adapter lines made with the proper M10 bubble flare fittings and Tee's to make it plug and play if I ever want to go back to the stock style master cylinder.


Since the car is an 85, it has smaller rear wheel bearings and in this case a small pumpkin 3.46 diff. So I'm going to throw in later model trailing arms with new big bearings, reman GKN axles, adjustable subframe with poly bushings and a Z3 3.15 Torsen diff.





Once this is done, all that will be left is dying the front seats black and cleaning up the swap. I cannot wait until this is done. It's been a long time coming.

[dahows]

Here is the part number from my order - 94435502311

[KIRIEIW]

You wouldn't happen to have the part number handy for the booster? Want to clarify I purchased the correct one, I actually made a thread on it today. Thanks man.

[alkkamai]

Good work, dude, she's looking fly!

[reelizmpro]

The fins need to be shaved down more but it's a lot closer than I thought it would be. If I were to do it again, I would try the E90 booster.

[KIRIEIW]

Is the Booster touching? I also decided to do the 944 route on a swap I started recently. Awesome update dude.

[reelizmpro]

I can't believe it's been this long already and I've hardly driven the car. The car has spent the last year in the shop undergoing a few mods including S52 swap. I decided to let a shop handle it as I don't have the time these days and don't feel like doing it in my driveway. Anyway, she's almost complete, just needs new rear subframe with adjusters installed and exhaust.
Not much to see really except a few swap related pics...
Did you know euro 323i's didn't have a transfer pump? but only a fuel level sender with external main pump? I didn't!


So I had to use the US style fuel pump (TRE) setup with level sender...





Porsche 944 Booster