Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

85 323i grey market euro - M tech 1 build.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • reelizmpro
    replied
    To be honest, the M50 family is known for HG and/or head problems. I think it's a design flaw exacerbated by cooling issues. I spent a lot of time in my friend's BMW shop in the 90's/early 2000's and seen a lot of blown HG's and cracked heads on 24v engines. Lots of mechanical overrevs as well. It made me reluctant to swap for a long time. When I finally took the plunge, I happen to get an engine with a bad headgasket. Part of me isn't really surprised. I suppose I should be happy it's just a gasket and not a cracked head as well. I remember my E39 528i started overheating on the freeway so I changed the water pump and thermostat and it stilI overheated. What fixed it was a new fan clutch which surprised me since I thought an E39 would have sufficient airflow at highway speed to cool the engine. BTW, my E39 has 286k miles on the original engine. Could it be that E36 drivers tend to hoon their cars while E39 drivers aren't driving their cars as hard?

    Leave a comment:


  • Javier h
    replied
    Maybe its just me but I am starting to wonder whether these E36 engines are super sensitive to coolant issues and prone to failure for the slightest infraction! Yes, renewing the cooling system on E36s is a given and part of its critical maintenance but I blew my M52 at 200k and I did everything clock work knowing its short comings. Maybe I should have replaced everything at 80k instead of waiting for 100k....temps etc were spot on but I read threads like yours and now Simon's and you start wondering. My leak was just that...external coming from the side block, no mixing with the oil but still...I replaced it along with all those cooling related component/hoses including a new radiator etc.as something caused that gasket to blow.

    Leave a comment:


  • reelizmpro
    replied

    Yes, I am for the same reasons he mentioned. However, I did have a blown headgasket and it was consuming coolant. It just never boiled out of the cap like it would with the M42 radiator. I just kept adding water every so often. I very much prefer the late model style cooling system for a few reasons but mainly because it's like the E36 style radiator of which there are plenty of aftermarket options and I get to keep the coolant level sender with the late model reservoir. The wiring runs right by it along the drivers side fender. I think it looks cleaner than the early style pill bottle as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • Javier h
    replied
    Barry, are you running a later model radiator and expansion tank:


    Leave a comment:


  • Skarpa
    replied
    Looks awesome and sophisticated with the Alpinas. Although it did look great with the style fives as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • reelizmpro
    replied
    Haven't posted in a while but I sent the car off to Bimmerheads to do the headgasket which was the cause of my overheating problems while I worked on my turbo 2.8 stroker for my M tech convertible. Luckily, the head was still good but the engine needed a lot of work and much of what I had done already was being done over due to the head coming off. I've asked the shop I got the engine from to warranty the headgasket and associated labor like they said they would but we'll see. Anyway, the heater core decided to take a piss on the way back from Bimmerheads lol. Thankfully, I was able to make it home and swap it out without incident. I keep telling myself it's a 35 year old car.

    Anyway, the style 5's I had on the car are starting to become an eyesore. The microclear coat on the lips has started to crack making the lips look hazy and the chromed bolts are starting to rust after 10 years. So I took the wheels and adapters off and installed a set of 16" Alpina's. It's been over 20 years since I've ran 16's and I must admit, I like how they ride. I must be getting old. Just don't like the cost of tires! I've always liked the look of the SA 333i and the Alpina's complete the look. Not as flashy but classy, period correct and perfect fitment. What do you guys think?

    Leave a comment:


  • brutus
    replied
    a cool interior

    anyone need any oem seat bolsters ?
    cloth or leather,,,,

    I have a good few ! available,

    Leave a comment:


  • reelizmpro
    replied
    Originally posted by efficient View Post
    dang seat looks very nice. just one question did you add any options to the leather seats when ordering them like line piping or anything?
    Thanks. I don't remember but I showed them a pic of the stock seats and they sent the exact kit I needed which is the standard E30 sport seat pattern with vertical stitching with piping on the side bolsters. I think their kit can be had with or without the piping.

    Here are the seats together in the car.



    There are some minor adjustments that I need to make, like how the leather folds along the top on the drivers seat, etc but I am happy with how everything turned out. The LSeat leather is thicker than stock and textured. The pieces aren't 1:1 copies of the originals but they are close enough. For the money, it's hard to beat and what a difference it makes.
    Last edited by reelizmpro; 11-14-2019, 11:44 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • efficient
    replied
    dang seat looks very nice. just one question did you add any options to the leather seats when ordering them like line piping or anything?

    Leave a comment:


  • reelizmpro
    replied
    Yes, I will be there, hopefully with this car. The seat is all done and ready to go back into the car. I had to wait for the right Krylon plastic paint to refresh my belt recepticle. Turned out great!

    Before:



    After:


    Leave a comment:


  • 2mAn
    replied
    Will it be at SoCal Vintage? Join us for the caravan

    Leave a comment:


  • reelizmpro
    replied
    Originally posted by rzerob View Post

    Take a heat gun to the plastic receptacle button it will bring the color back to it.
    Already tried. That method didn't work for me on my 84-85 early style receptacle. The plastic itself has faded. It's not a chalky layer of oxidation that just needs to be removed. I've cleaned and buffed it but the color will not return. Just going to paint them.

    Leave a comment:


  • rzerob
    replied
    Originally posted by reelizmpro View Post
    Now, I am waiting on Krylon plastic paint to arrive so I can refurbish the seat belt receptacle button. It will be the finishing touch.
    Take a heat gun to the plastic receptacle button it will bring the color back to it.

    Leave a comment:


  • reelizmpro
    replied
    Originally posted by efficient View Post
    what kind of glue did you use for the cardboard?
    Dap contact cement in a can. I also have some spray adhesive but i think the contact cement works better. I think the spray is better suited for foam vs bare leather. Thanks! Now, I am waiting on Krylon plastic paint to arrive so I can refurbish the seat belt receptacle button. It will be the finishing touch.

    Leave a comment:


  • Skarpa
    replied
    Again: Looks very good!

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X