'89 318i 6 speed m50b32tu turbo swap build

[4tDX]

This is what i am getting:
https://adamat.com.pl/n54-n55-turbo-...2x-kevlar.html

They are making a custom version of this with a starter ring gear position to suit the m50 starter motor. You could use any 8 bolt N54 clutch setup, as long as you use the n54 starter with a 10mm spacer.

Could someone elaborate on what would be the requirements going with a GS6-53BZ mated to an m/s5X? Is it possible to just use an N54 starter(+spacers)/clutch/flywheel and just bolt this sucker right up or do you have to go the custom flywheel route?

It's becoming hard to source a GS6-37BZ locally, but there are GS6-53BZ aplenty.

[ba114]

Gotcha. Basically what i was doing when i was using MS41.
The euro ms41.0 never had the retrofit harness because it uses a different sensor. At anyrate, it works perfectly fine with a 12v feed.

[moatilliatta]

I have no current issues. But its something that has been in back of my mind, But no MS41.0 Euro car looks to have the 703 retrofit harness.

I have the euro M52 crank sensor on my OBDI timing cover and crank wheel. Running MS41.2

The rev limiter is set to 8K but kicks in at 7800, Something we haven't got sorted yet.

[ba114]

Yes it will also work in an ms41.1 car, however i dont understand why you would need to know? If you are ms41.1 you have the rear mounted CPS (same part number as the ms43 sensor) and should already have a patch lead to feed it 12v from the vanos connector.

[moatilliatta]

Was getting some issues with starting and a persistent DTC 83 (crankshaft sensor) error. The wiring on the ms43 sensor patch harness was good/new, however i'd leveraged the original harness for connecting to the sensor.
No pics, but the cable was not in great shape.

Decided to just run the e36 MS41.0 EURO obd2 front mounted crank sensor. In the e36 this is fed 5v from the DME, however i was informed that it would also accept 12v feed. So i wired up an adapter harness so i could wire it into the ms43 harness. Started first go! no more errors and a VERY strong start.

Does a 12v power to the OBDII Euro crank sensor to ms41.1 work out?

How did they come up with 12V feed would work on that sensor?

[ba114]

had a nice read! v nice build btw , you had to go from 16" to 17" to clear those breaks right?

I'm looking to upgrade my brakes but can't give up my 16" bbs rs's haha.

keep the good work ! i want a video with a pull :D

I never tried the brakes with 16s...i had them right there in the garage to do so...but then i sold them. From what i read though, other people had run them with 16s.

[QuiqueUy]

had a nice read! v nice build btw , you had to go from 16" to 17" to clear those breaks right?

I'm looking to upgrade my brakes but can't give up my 16" bbs rs's haha.

keep the good work ! i want a video with a pull :D

[ba114]

Well, there was definitely a leak at the turbo flange. replaced the gasket with a remflex gasket and made sure it was torqued down properly. Result? no more leak there, but still a loud exhaust leak. Time to pull the manifold :(

In other news ive been selling quite a few bi-xenon retrofit kits for bosch euro smileys from my facebook page. #shamelessplug

[Northern]

Hope it is the former. I dread the moment I have to remove my manifold and see how warped it is.

[ba114]

Fixed up a few pinhole leaks in the downpipe but am still chasing exhaust leaks either at the turbo/manifold flange, or the manifold/head flange. i'm hoping its the former as it is far simpler to address....

[ba114]

Looking good, hows it run?

Yesterday i dropped the running in oil and pulled it apart again to fix an intake cam timing issue. But before that i had AFRs and STFT looking pretty perfect.

[moatilliatta]

Looking good, hows it run?

[Northern]

Glad you sorted the brake binding and it wasn't something with the calipers.

[ba114]

Was in a rush to get this thing ready for the BMW Nationals 2022 which was being hosted in my home state so got busy finishing some things off.
Finished the downpipe and titanium wrapped it. Then tried welding aluminium for the first time, on the compressor housing. Had to weld a tight 90 degree but seems to have turned out "OK". Thank goodness for angle grinders and flapper discs.


After that, it was time to finally fit the new brakes. The rears went on no problems. The front however, im a bit less than impressed with. The install kit is going to make it a more difficult process to change pads in future than it should be. Additionally, the caliper to hub bolt setup comes with 2 washers. Counter intuitively, you have to somehow put one washer between the hub and the caliper adapter otherwise you'll end up with binding. I dont know why IE dont make their adapter with the required spacing already, but its really quite frustrating. Im not the only person that has reported having to shim the setup.



Then finally after getting it all put together on a sunday afternoon, i was finally able to load a base tune on it and take it for a drive - this was short lived as i soon started to experience brake binding. My initial thoughts went to the new/old calipers, however i did also change the booster and master many months ago. So i checked the rod that goes across the firewall on RHD cars. Sure enough, there was a little bit of pre-load on the booster even with the pedal at rest. A quick adjustment to the rod and i was back in business.


After about an hour of logging and adjustments to the tune i was at a point where it was "OK" to drive it to the show and shine event at the nationals :)

[econti]

Other people can't see shit welds on your car when you blow past them at 3x the speed limit