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'90 325i S52 to S54 '06 Z4M w/ ZF 6 Speed

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    #16
    ^I'll take a pic to show why as well. The end that follows down to the engine arm is in the way of the power steering reservoir .

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      #17
      After looking further Z4M and E46 M3 waterpump/thermostat parts are the slightly different. Z4M waterpump /clutch fan threads do not have to be cut. The M3 waterpump pushes the clutch fan further toward the radiator. This is an issue for E46M3 S54 swaps into the e30 chassis as the waterpump needs to be shortened/cut to clear the radiator and SPAL fan.

      Also, the hole on top of this pic, my thermostat housing does not have. This is where the coolant overflow piping in front of the engine would connect to:
      E46M3 waterpump and longer profile w/ hole for hard pipe.


      Z3M/4M waterpump, notice the shorter profile.


      I'll consolidate this into my DIY
      Last edited by R3Z3N; 07-20-2016, 10:46 PM.

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        #18
        Are you still running A/C?

        Just to clarify, for those looking to do the swap, with no a/c there is no clearance issues with the water pump. Pusher fan on z3m radiator works awesome
        - '88 m54 coupe

        <3

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          #19
          Yes, will be running the variable displacement AC compressor with gpetersons circuit board

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            #20
            can't wait...

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              #21
              Checked the valve clearances, updated here page 1.

              Not bad! I hope to turn this into a chart with formulas so thinking is removed, and can be changed from MM to IN and back....

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                #22
                Added Valve Cover Oil drain, updated a few links to products. Received my AC CAN controller wired from Andrew325is, just need to add 2-3 wires. Still confused a little, but knowledge will come while I install...

                Hoping to install engine this weekend and oil lines....

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                  #23
                  Subscribed
                  sigpic

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                    #24
                    Installed the engine. I fought with it too. For an IT guy, we are not used to the abuses of real mans work. ;-)


                    Also, decided I am going to drop the M50 PS pump for the Z3 rack. I am going to use custom PS high pressure hose to install a cooler as well. Would rather have off the shelf parts for this instead of cutting/welding the lines to fit. Of course pics to come. Debating making the pics clickable for high res versions. Easy enough on the forum here, just wrap the IMG tag with a URL tag to your host of choice to the bigger pic. Of course, mine is godaddy....because Danica Patric
                    Last edited by R3Z3N; 08-18-2016, 11:10 AM.

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                      #25
                      Did you get your eyebrows waxed ?

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                        #26
                        Close, could have lost an eye. Having glasses has saved the eyes many times.

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                          #27
                          Added the oil cooler setup. Going to modify after first oil change most likely for a hard line setup by the frame. Next time I would not use braided line either, as it will be too hard to quickly clean. Use Push Loc instead of threaded AN as well.

                          Next is to install AKG motor mounts to help lower the engine and give it the rigidity I want w/o going balls to the wall hard. Then install headers, Power Steering, PS cooler and R134 setup. I also figured out that I am missing the C136 and one other connector above the glove box for AC, however I only need the Red/Black wire for my AC CanBus converter. Still I want the connectors for ease of maintenance and should I sell the car, someone else can loosely follow the ETM manuals.

                          Thinking about fueling, and the Z4 tank has the fuel filter and Fuel Pressure Regulator integrated:
                          click here
                          Going to add the M3 FPR, and then need to run the M3 FPR vacuum hoses as well. Not sure what I am going to do about Charcoal canister if at all. With the S52 however it was setup, the tank would create vacuum, and going to fill up would be embarrassing as it loudly sucked a ton of air back in. Also, I do not want the tank to implode or the Walbro 255 pump which I already have installed to work harder.
                          Last edited by R3Z3N; 08-20-2016, 03:44 PM.

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                            #28
                            I really was not happy with the oil cooler lines hanging below the front frame rail, so I ran the 90ยบ AN bends through the frame rail channel.

                            I'd still prefer to do hard line to the headlight opening and soft from there to engine, but the tools to do so properly are another $400. The current method will suffice for now and it's cleaner than prior. Should temps be a concern at track days then I will add a larger cooler.

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                              #29
                              Frame vs Subframe mount and clearances as seen below. I believe I want to frame mount with a 1/2" welded spacer to the frame, and tap it for the mounts. Want it somewhat triangular to move down more that forward so that I can retain full droop when working on the car and not hit the oil pan. Would remove the custom subframe swaybar mounts.













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                                #30
                                Originally posted by Loupoz View Post
                                Why not just use the Z4M Pipe?
                                sweet build so far, can't wait to see final product.
                                what wheels did you have on the car in the first photo of the thread?

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