I Did A Dumb Thing (E30)

[roguetoaster]

You should be able to do all of the actual removal and replacement work yourself, especially if you do some reading in advance to be sure you know what you are up to.

Buy quality parts if you intend to keep the car, if unsure what quality parts are just do a quick search of the forum.

The rear trailing arm bushings (swing arm bushes) aren't easy, and will probably be a larger struggle than the cylinder head. Also consider parts that are attached to all of the areas that need attention (as well as those that need to come off to get to a component) and consider replacing adjacent components.

The transmission probably doesn't need replacement, and if the shifter feel sloppy it's probably just the bushings/linkage.

If you haven't already, look through the diagrams in realOEM.com or bmwfans.info, and get a Bentley repair manual. Beyond that it's only a matter of having the tools, the time, the money, and the will to get it repaired.

[flumph]

Fixed the pics.

And yeah, I guess I want to put this back as close to stock as I can get it. Maybe with a little more going on. Driving a well-kept car from 1984 is unique enough for me. This is indeed a second car. If I get used to it, it might become a daily.

And they quoted the valve cover gasket separately for $200. I know enough to know that's pretty out there. I think they're just nervous about poking the engine at all. I get it though, they're running a business.

I've been reading a ton of guides. The amount of information available for these cars is pretty impressive. The cracked dash looks like it's going to take a solid weekend. And I say that looking forward to it, not dreading it. Sure wish I had a garage though. Apartment life.

So if anyone has a spare stock clutch sitting in their parts bin...

Edit:
Replied while I was typing.

Downloading the Bentley manual now. And reading more about the suspension...

[ak-]

You can do the head gasket yourself if you say you're mechanically inclined - as you mentioned, there is a ton of information out there to help you along the way. Please don't pay $2200 to get it done. You might as well do the 885 i-head swap since you will have to resurface the head again and get a new gasket upon removal.
Lucky for you, the timing belt, water pump, and associated seals/things can all be done at once while doing the head gasket.
And to honest with you, I would first pressure wash the engine block and change the valve cover gasket to confirm that the head gasket is actually leaking.. as it could actually be your valve cover seeping down the block past the head gasket.

Getrag 260's are pretty stout transmissions.
The oatmeal trans shifting is most likely your bushings/linkage that is worn as mentioned above. Pretty easy job to do on your own. Most of it can be done by removing the shift boot which exposes a lot then and there.

I didn't feel like removing and installing a rebuilt and serviceable u-joint driveshaft and think I paid close to $700(?) to get it rebuilt and installed including new guibo and center support bearing, from a shop that is very familiar with e30's.

I also have a spare clutch I can send you with a lot of meat that was used for a few miles before removed for something aggressive.

And they quoted the valve cover gasket separately for $200.

LOL.

[flumph]

I only just got those price quotes around lunchtime today, and the more I look at it, the more I realize how mechanics stay in business. I think that's probably exactly how long it would take with their hourly rates though.

Even looking at dropping the rear subframe, doing all those bushings and mounts, diff bushing, center support bearing, flex disk, head gasket, water pump, timing belt, clutch, full brake job, there's nothing in there that I look at and think "that's too complicated". Looks like one of the better ways I can think of to spend a couple of weekends, actually. I'll use this thread to document exactly when I somehow accidentally set myself on fire.

PMing about that clutch...

[nando]

All of that stuff has been done here 10000's of times. I would get a Bentley, buy or borrow some tools, and dig in.

If you want an easy place to start, do the brakes first - it's cheap to do (even with all new rotors and calipers), and it's really easy. I recommend Blunttech for parts - keeps it in the E30 family, plus they have the best service and usually the best prices. :)

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Not the best deal but with the way e30's are. Its not the worst. You can do everything your self except the milling of the head. I highly recommend doing everything your self unless you have deep pockets cause unless its a brand new e30's its always gonna have little issues and if you had to take it to a shop to fix all them. You'd be broke real quick.

[Todd Black 88]

See red inline, and enjoy the learning

In advance, I apologize for the long post.

So I chose to run on the safe side and I took the 325e to a local, reputable garage that deals with European cars and restorations. I'm glad I did. I learned the following:

1. The head gasket is leaking oil. Procedure for them is to get a gasket kit, send the head off to a machine shop to inspect it for warping and cracks, and refinishing. Parts and labor were quoted at a little over $2200 for this alone. The valve cover gasket isn't included in that price.if it's only leaking outside onto the block, leave it. Do some research on how to do the job, contact Bimmerheads for one of their heads.
2. Drive shaft support bearing is about to go. This would obviously not be pretty if it failed.it better be cheap, because this is a simple job to diy
3. Rear swing arm links and bushings are toasted.not an easy job the first time, but is doable with research and time.
4. Rear brakes need new pads and rotors need refinishing.Start hear and get new rotors and pads. Most BMW cannot be refinished. They will end up below spec. They are cheap.
5. The idle control valve had been "re-engineered" by the PO, somehow involving a garden hose.? Find a good working used one and replace it. Smoke test every hose

For a 32 year old car, none of this exactly surprises me, but the bills sure add up fast. I don't think anything they've quoted me is outrageous, to be clear. I have to have a plan though:

1. Is the head something I can do myself? I'm mechanically inclined and I've used a torque wrench before, but I've never worked on an engine. I found this guide and it doesn't look like anything I couldn't do. The thing that would make me the most nervous is reconnecting everything properly at the end. Should I attempt this? More questions on this in the next section.
2. I think I'm going to go ahead and get the garage to do the drive shaft support bearing. They gave me a good price.
3. I think I'll just change the swing arm bushings myself. Doesn't seem that complicated. While I'm at it, it looks like ECS Tuning sells a total suspension rebuild kit for $450. Might as well.
4. I can probably change a brake pad, but I can't machine a rotor.
5. The ICV looks like the easiest thing in the world.

These are the things that I think it needs otherwise:

1. The gearbox feels like stirring a bowl of oatmeal. Down the line, it needs to be either rebuilt or replaced. A fresh Getrag 260 5-speed looks like it's pretty easily available for around $400, but I'm also reading that there are some compatibility issues between the early Etas (mine) and some of these transmissions. More research needed.
2. The clutch will be changed almost immediately to a softer clutch that I can actually slip in 1st gear. It looks like all I need to do this is a jack, some stands, a friend, a 12-pack, and a free Saturday.
3. I'm playing with the thought of putting a 325i head on it, but that's a question to ask another time.
4. About the heads, it seems like there are a few things that are worth doing while you have the valve cover off. I've read that the valve springs are notoriously weak in the Etas, in pursuit of greater efficiency. Is it worth putting new springs in? At that point, how hard is it to put in a higher lift cam? What's the difference between doing that and just buying a 325i head on eBay? Buying a new head and gaskets, I'm still paying less than I would be paying the garage just to change the gasket.
5. Having no service record whatsoever, a new coolant pump and a new timing belt seems wise.
6. The odometer is disconnected. It reads 157xxx, but for all I know this could be 250xxx.
7. Those fancy limited slip diffs have my eye.

These are the things that I want to do that involve no manual skill whatsoever:

1. The PO put limo tint on half of the windshield and on all of the rear windows. Not my scene.
2. The PO fastened sideskirts and a front air dam with sheet rock screws.
3. The PO painted the front grill kidney vents black. Those'll probably end up back to their original chrome glory.
4. I know this is weird, but the PO put in one of those MP3 player car radios with bluetooth and stuff. I sort of want a tape deck.
5. Did they make a glass sunroof panel for the E30? Would be sweet, but that's far down this list.
6. The paint is good but it looks like it's not going to be good for that much longer. Paint is expensive though.

In conclusion, my biggest question is whether or not I should attempt to change my own head gasket. By no means do I expect to have all of this done quickly. I was looking for a project, and I sure found one. Also thanks for all the replies. Y'all seem like good folks.

Also, I promised pictures and forgot. So here's that. This was the day I bought it.

[AwakenNoMore]

I spent less than $600 for a junkyard cylinder head, gasket kit, timing belt, water pump, machining etc. and did it all myself with the help of the easily downloadable Bentley Manual and this forum. Still going strong 4 years later. First time ever cracking open an engine. I am an idiot, if I can do it, you can do it.

[ForcedFirebird]

Welcome, to what seems exactly what a 32yr old car would be with ok to light maintenance over the years.

Seems the prices are up these days. A decade ago I paid almost the same for a perfectly mint 1986 325es with 70k miles. Man, I miss that car. Those of us that have been here for a while have to remember that long gone are the cheap e30 days - when I bought mine, they lined the junk yard. Now (here anyways) you are lucky to see an e36!

[redsubdivisions]

Welcome, to seems exactly what a 32yr old car would be with ok to light maintenance over the years.

Seems the prices are up these days. A decade ago I paid almost the same for a perfectly mint 1986 325es with 70k miles. Man, I miss that car. Those of us that have been here for a while have to remember that long gone are the cheap e30 days - when I bought mine, the lined the junk yard. Now (here anyways) you are lucky to see an e36!

Same here. I bought mine 6 years ago for $1700 and even then I thought it was too much. All the E36's here are beat to shit.

[flumph]

Thinking about it, even if it's just the valve cover gasket, I might as well do the whole thing while I'm in it. Good chance to get to know the car and get my hands dirty. And I'd like to do the belt and pump anyway.

First round maintenance:

• Head resurface
• Head gasket
• Drive shaft center support bearing
• Clutch
• Brake rotors, pads, sensors, fluid
• Water pump
• Timing belt
• Oil change
• Coolant flush

Sounds like a solid weekend. Maybe two.

Second round:

• Total suspension rebuild, all new bushings
• New shock absorbers
• Shifter rebuild
• Transmission fluid
• Sort the odometer
• Steel brake lines
• ICV back to stock

LIGHTNING ROUND:

• Tint delete
• Tape deck
• Replace cracked dash
• Carpet, seat upholstery

Should be done... Late February?

[flumph]

Thread necro! Sorry for the long post.

With the help of a local garage, all the major stuff is fixed. Here's a rundown:

• The head gasket definitely needed replacing. While we were in there, an ARP head stud kit was installed. Figured WTHN. The shop was also nice enough to swap in a fresh head instead of refinishing the one that was on it. The timing was a tooth off from whoever worked on it before, all the eccentrics were completely trashed, the valve guides were toast, and the valves weren't sealing.
• Since I don't have any idea what the service record is, the timing belt, water pump, and all of the top end gaskets got replaced.
• The transmission was pulled off so the friction discI bought from the guy up there earlier in the thread (who was super nice) could be installed. It turns out that the PO had changed the pressure plate and throwout bearing as well. This is what was making the clutch throw long and hard, and very, very hard to drive. I ended up just buying a whole kit from LUK, which is doing fine.
• The aftermarket clutch, which was a copper-ceramic six puck type was unfit for this application and had badly (badly) gouged the flywheel. The flywheel was sent to be turned.
• The radiator and hoses were leaking badly and were all replaced.
• The drive shaft center support bearing, rear sway bar end links, and all 4 sets of brake pads and rotors were replaced.

There was also a lot of wiring damage. For some reason, fuse #27 that powers the interior lights and the central locking system had a parasitic drain on it that murdered my battery.

Tonight, something like 5 months later, I finally took it for a drive for the first time. I'm in love with it. Again, I've never driven a standard transmission before tonight, and it took me about 25 minutes in a parking lot before I had the basics pretty well down. I kept trying to start it in 3rd. Took it for a spin around town, and I caught more than one person looking at me with the "wtf is that" look on their face. That's a good feeling.

So where am I now?

The oil pan is leaking badly. The odometer doesn't work. The coolant, engine oil, and brake fluid lights are all on despite the levels being adequate. The brake pad wear sensor light is on despite the pads and sensors being new. I have to sort out whatever wiring on fuse 27 that's causing the problem (aftermarket stereo is suspect). It needs new tires. The front splitter and side skirts need some attention. The leather on the steering wheel has worn off. The driver's side knee bolster is missing. The dash is still cracked (funny, they don't uncrack). Plan on flocking. It has a massive exhaust leak, and the midpipe is bent. The shifter bushings have failed. All of the vacuum hoses are leaking.

Putting all of it out in a list like that is a little overwhelming, but with how much fun that 60 minute drive was, I'm willing to take the time. Most people would look at it and decide it wasn't worth it, but I can't stand the thought if selling it to someone who's going to either beat it to death, part it out, or having it end up in a scrap yard. This car gets another life. And maybe ITBs. We'll see.

By chance, does anyone have a parts car?

[e30davie]

Only small things left:)

[Shangsta]

Ive gone through this before and when you have an e30 that is refreshed there is nothing like it.

[flumph]

Small update for those who might be watching.

Poking around, I discovered that the idle control module was missing! Totally missing. The ICV wasn't getting any power at all, which is why the PO substituted in a plumbing ball valve, which sort of worked. But I decided that wasn't going to do, so I went to the local junk yard and found a donor car. I pulled an idle control module and a throttle body with a good TPS on it from an otherwise stripped out E28 528i. The idle now sits pretty at 850 RPM, purring away with no plumbing valves.

I'm going to go back to that yard and pull the subframes and trailing arms off of a 318i that they also have.

I also fixed the odometer with a set of Garagistic gears, and grabbed two seatbelts from the junkyard as well.

This is going well.