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Half-Life | '91 DS 318iS Slicktop | Track & Weekend Warrior

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    #31
    I think I used the 3m adhesive remover... works great but make sure you're working in a well ventilated area
    - '88 m54 coupe

    <3

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      #32
      Very nice build! Love the attention to detail and the thoroughness. Very satisfying. Also a great story. Glad to see there are still some people who stick to their roots and pursue a project rather than just moving on and up ("up" as in e36, e46, e90 newer models etc = boring)

      Subbed for updates! I have been working on a few similar projects you've got going on so I look forward to your solutions.

      Edit: cool to see the bbs rks, they are my favorite wheel on the e36!
      Last edited by Sh3rpak!ng; 05-09-2017, 02:58 PM.
      '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
      Shadetree30

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        #33
        Originally posted by Sh3rpak!ng View Post
        Very nice build!
        Thank you, and likewise! I am subscribed to your thread and will be looking forward to new updates, as it does seem like we are in similar places with our cars right now.



        Right now just a small update. I've been working on final prep of the interior before it gets dropped off tomorrow to have the roll bar (half cage) done. I probably won't have the car for 2-3 weeks as the shop is still finishing up other projects as well.

        Removed the rear glass (side and rear window). This was to make for easier access when welded the roll bar, and to remove the last of the headliner since it wraps under the windows.






        There was soooo much nasty adhesive gunk on the c-pillars. It took way too long to clean it up, and it's still not perfect.




        Door panels were popped off so I can start drilling the holes for the Condor door panel deletes. I am using rivet nuts so I can easily remove the panels at a later time. A shop vac got rid of the dried up loose foam on the door plastic. That stuff goes everywhere.





        Rear cards mocked up and then drilled and rivnutted.






        Installed weatherpack connectors for my rear ABS sensors since they were completely disintegrated.




        State of the interior until it gets back from the fabricator. Until next time!

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          #34
          Looking good! What is the material you are using for the door cards?

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            #35
            Nice thread

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              #36
              Originally posted by squidmaster View Post
              Looking good! What is the material you are using for the door cards?
              They are black ABS plastic, laser cut. Condor also has them in brushed aluminum, but my interior is going to be black so I wanted to keep it low key.

              https://www.condorspeedshop.com/coll...rts/Door-Cards

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                #37
                nice build! do you have any pics of that access hole that you created for replacing the rubber fuel lines @ the top of the tank?

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                  #38
                  I thought you made them yourself. I dont need any haha was just curious.

                  Sent from my Robin using Tapatalk

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                    #39
                    Normally not a fan of black E30s, but this one is just too fresh. Very nice.
                    1991 318is Brillantrot daily driver (slow restoration)

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by BraveUlysses View Post
                      nice build! do you have any pics of that access hole that you created for replacing the rubber fuel lines @ the top of the tank?
                      I don't, but I can take a couple for you when I get the car back. You can see it in this picture:




                      Just north of the black circular access cover for the fuel tank, do you see the metal "loop" used for securing the base of the back seat? The little black cap just to left of that is the access hole.

                      Basically, there is a hard line on top of the tank that has a rubber hose and hose clamp attached to it. However, the hard line is inset from the edge of the tank a bit, and it's located really close to the body of the car. To add insult to injury, BMW typically installed the hose clamp with the head facing the body. It essentially cannot be accessed from underneath.

                      What I did was took a really long punch and dimpled the body from underneath the car, as close to the head of the hose clamp as I could. Then I drilled about a 1/2" hole right there and boom, perfect access to the hose clamp. Replaced the hose clamp with a new one, aligned it with the hole, and tightened it down from the top again.



                      Originally posted by c0rbin9 View Post
                      Normally not a fan of black E30s, but this one is just too fresh. Very nice.
                      Thank you!

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                        #41
                        Just went through the whole thread. Pretty sweet build.

                        Any idea of what the weight is down to? Im guessing mid-2500?
                        Simon
                        Current Car:
                        -2000 330i Estate, the dad-mobile
                        -2002 MR2 Spyder, the solo-mobile



                        Make R3V Great Again -2020

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by Digitalwave View Post
                          I don't, but I can take a couple for you when I get the car back. You can see it in this picture:




                          Just north of the black circular access cover for the fuel tank, do you see the metal "loop" used for securing the base of the back seat? The little black cap just to left of that is the access hole.

                          Basically, there is a hard line on top of the tank that has a rubber hose and hose clamp attached to it. However, the hard line is inset from the edge of the tank a bit, and it's located really close to the body of the car. To add insult to injury, BMW typically installed the hose clamp with the head facing the body. It essentially cannot be accessed from underneath.

                          What I did was took a really long punch and dimpled the body from underneath the car, as close to the head of the hose clamp as I could. Then I drilled about a 1/2" hole right there and boom, perfect access to the hose clamp. Replaced the hose clamp with a new one, aligned it with the hole, and tightened it down from the top again.





                          Thank you!
                          danke, that's a great solution and i need to address my fuel lines soon

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                            #43
                            Cool, sub'd

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by BraveUlysses View Post
                              danke, that's a great solution and i need to address my fuel lines soon
                              No problem. My only other advise is carefully drill the hole pretty shallow, as the hose clamp is right underneath the body. You can mangle the hose clamp and possibly the nipple on the tank if you go too far. Don't used a stepped bit for this reason.

                              Other than that it was an easy job. Don't forget there are 2 sizes of fuel line near the pump. I used a tight fitting barb to join the soft line that goes across the tank to the new line, and then just pulled it across the top of the tank from underneath the car to run the new line.

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                                #45
                                Alright, let's get this thread back on track!

                                The shop that did my roll bar took longer than expected, but it was worth the wait. I am very happy with the roll bar and they worked with me closely to make something I was happy with, fit my needs, and fit me (literally).

                                Seeing as though this car still gets driven to the track on the street, and I am not doing any door to door racing, I went with a 4 point "half cage." Without a headliner and having a slick top car, I knew I'd be able to get something that is a much better fit, and stronger than the off-the-shelf bolt in bars.

                                We elected to use 1.75" 0.095 DOM tubing for the bar. NASA and SCCA would have both allowed 1.50" 0.120 for the weight of the car. We went with the 1.75" as it is lighter, slightly stronger, and easier to bend than 1.50".

                                The main hoop and harness bar were fitted with me and my seat in the car to set the proper heights and angles. The pipes come together in nodes for strength. Each pipe is 360* welded. The rear down bars are plated to the frame rails in the trunk. Lastly, welded in 5x3" plates were used to affix the eye bolts for the harness lap belts. I'll be adding the sub belt eye bolts as well soon.

                                The main hoop is very nice and tight against the roof, and it follows the angle of the B-pillar nicely and is very tight against the body of the car.

                                Progress photos over the last few weeks as the bar came together.








                                This was mocking up the main hoop. There are no plates on the floor yet, so it was tighter to the roof line (about 1/8" away) once the plates were added to the sills.












                                Plates added to the chassis:






                                Main hoop tacked into place. We ended up kicking the angle back just slightly more before final welding.




                                Working on the rear down bars:






                                Harness bar and diagonal being welded:




                                Final product:







                                With the car finally back in my possession, it was time to start finishing off the interior (paint, reassembly). I set a deadline of a July 18th track day so I can finally drive the car again. It's looking feasible so far.

                                I ended up deciding to use hammered texture paint on the roll bar, and flat black for the rest of the interior. I initially did 2 coats of the hammered, but I wasn't happy with the result. I let it cure for a week, then knocked the texture down a bit with a scotchbrite pad and then did one final coat. It came out pretty good.

                                I mixed about 20% Rustoleum Hammered Silver with 80% Hammered Black, which is already closer to a dark grey color than black. It came out a nice dark grey tone that stands out just enough, without being loud at all. Here is the end result:












                                The Miata was tuned with the new 1.8 recently and it made about 250rwhp on a Mustang. Really good numbers! It got a carbon fiber hard top as well.




                                Next was masking off the bar and starting to paint the roof and the rest of the interior. I used Rustoleum flat black out of a jar and rolled/brushed it on. The rolled sections came out awesome! The brushed sections might need a 3rd coat to fix some issues that you can see when the light hits it good. I'm being too anal though, it looks perfect for a track beast.








                                Here's a better photo of the back half, which is as far as I've gotten so far. The paint is still partially wet here. It dried pretty nice and even.




                                This week I will be finishing up the interior paint, so I can start reassembly. I need to get the windows back in the car as well. It has been sitting around for about 6 weeks now, and spent a month in a fabrication shop. It's COVERED in dust and debris. I want to give it a good cleansing once the windows are back in!

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