You are very brave. Glad it has made it's way to you and you are fixing it's previous owner's destruction.
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The Blunderwagon - 89 325iX touring 3.1L stroker
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Originally posted by kronus View PostIt is, but that’s not what came out of here. I didn’t grab a photo, but this radiator was as narrow as an m42 core, and stopped at the lower radiator hose instead of continuing down to the bottom of the rad support. Cold weather spec? Botch job by whoever did all the other botch jobs? Idk.
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Originally posted by nando View PostSounds like a hack job.. Dont think M20s came factory with anyting else, however ix tourings are a bit of a strange duck. :)
kronus, yes, the previous owner needs to be punched in the cock as penance for all the bad maintenance. I had the same problem with my mtech II when I first got it. in my case, the car was owned by a teenager. it kind of looks like that for you too.
I would say that after a couple of weeks of wretched anger amidst un-fucking everything, I got to the point where I would just laugh every time I found something else that was retarded.
you might want to try this approach. its good for your blood pressure.Last edited by flyboyx; 04-24-2018, 07:29 AM.sigpic
Gigitty Gigitty!!!!
88 cabrio becoming alpina b6 3.5s transplanted s62
92 Mtech 2 cabrio alpinweiss 770 code
88 325ix coupe manual lachsilber/cardinal
88 325ix coupe manual diamondschwartz/natur
87 e30 m3 for parts lachsilber/cardinal(serial number 7)
12 135i M sport cabrio grey/black
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Originally posted by kronus View Post
iX Tourings got CV rear driveshafts. Mine came out without too much difficulty, but it has a fully torn boot. I've not been able to locate a replacement, and this driveshaft will likely get changed out for a 4-bolt unit when I upgrade to less-destroyed diffs, but that is a project for another day.
My 4dr 325ix also has got a CV rear drive shaft. I think it's from a Volkwagen front axle haha
Nice work you're doing there.
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Originally posted by flyboyx View PostI would say that after a couple of weeks of wretched anger amidst un-fucking everything, I got to the point where I would just laugh every time I found something else that was retarded.
Originally posted by notanawdix80 View PostMy 4dr 325ix also has got a CV rear drive shaft. I think it's from a Volkwagen front axle haha
Nice work you're doing there.
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I think I have one of those under the hood of every vehicle I ownsigpic
Gigitty Gigitty!!!!
88 cabrio becoming alpina b6 3.5s transplanted s62
92 Mtech 2 cabrio alpinweiss 770 code
88 325ix coupe manual lachsilber/cardinal
88 325ix coupe manual diamondschwartz/natur
87 e30 m3 for parts lachsilber/cardinal(serial number 7)
12 135i M sport cabrio grey/black
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Originally posted by kronus View PostI am definitely 100% in this space now
thanks! to be clear, you replaced yours with a rando VW CV? I guess they're all Lobro something or other, huh
Some months ago i removed the driveshaft and tried to replace the worn cv but i could not find a matching cv boot for it. Mine was destroyed and all the grease was scattered around the tunnel, so i assembled it back again.
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I've had a couple full weekends, and haven't made much progress as a result. I'll be spending all sunday on it, though. On the ticket:
- front of the motor back together (needs a helicoil for one of the cover bolts)
- e36 radiator in
- trans tunnel insulation swapped out
- shifter hole unfucked
- trans in
- shifter assembly re-assembled
- tc in, maybe
- driveshafts cleaned, painted, reassembled
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good news! updates!
Finished up the timing belt, water pump, e36 radiator, valves, seals, etc etc. Also picked up a strut brace that came up locally.
The radiator size difference mentioned before in this thread:
Installed a new firewall insulation thing. Doing this properly requires pulling the fusebox and brake booster, but I was able to worm it in place with some strategic cuts. Uninstalled -
Installed, along with the cleaned up flywheel, new pilot bearing, and new shield thing.
Also, finally, made an attempt at cleaning up The Hole. This isn't final by any means, but getting it perfect would require stripping the whole car down so that is going to wait until I've had a chance to actually drive it.
After a little hammering and unbending to get the metal to sit more or less where I wanted it -
After booger welding it in place. Blew through constantly, it sucked, but it's more or less together now. Using a piece of copper as a weld shield/heatsink was a big help.
Sometime this week, the transmission and driveline will start to make their way back into the car, and then the registration adventure will start.
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Nice work on the Touring! I should have a look at replacing my clutch and throwout bearing soon as it's making a rattlinh/whining noise. Not really looking forward to that.
How much did you pay for a full set?
That shifter hole turned out great! I would have never thought that you would get it that flat lol.How many amps do you use?
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Originally posted by D.Martijn View PostNice work on the Touring! I should have a look at replacing my clutch and throwout bearing soon as it's making a rattlinh/whining noise. Not really looking forward to that.
How much did you pay for a full set?
That shifter hole turned out great! I would have never thought that you would get it that flat lol.How many amps do you use?
Is your rattle with pedal in, or out? Different things end up rattling in there.
No idea on amps, I played around a bit and ended up at 2/5 "Voltage"s. Any more would burn through, any less would go on cold. It's likely a lot of this was due to paint and sealant contamination, as I didn't want to pull the carpet and thoroughly clean the area. My logic is if I pull the carpet, this car won't drive until at least 2020.
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Originally posted by kronus View PostThe flywheel/clutch/pressure plate I installed are the ones that came with the car, but sachs kits (TOB/pressure plate/disc/install tool) run around 300 bucks where I am.
Is your rattle with pedal in, or out? Different things end up rattling in there.
No idea on amps, I played around a bit and ended up at 2/5 "Voltage"s. Any more would burn through, any less would go on cold. It's likely a lot of this was due to paint and sealant contamination, as I didn't want to pull the carpet and thoroughly clean the area. My logic is if I pull the carpet, this car won't drive until at least 2020.
It rattles with the pedal out, when I press is in, the rattle is gone.
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