Bit of an overkill precaution, as the ones in the engine were only 1500km old, but am a bit gun shy about big ends letting go in M motors, so I wanted a little piece of mind on this swap after all the tuning has been bedded in etc etc.
Because of dry sump plumbing it's a major chore to pull the motor out the car, so I wanted to do this with the engine in the car. So had to make up a jig to hold the engine up as I dropped out the subframe. So I made up this wood jig out some F17 hardwood that I laminated and tenoned together with 40 Dominos and some russian birch ply. For something I made on the fly, I think this turned out pretty good. The fact it didnt drop the motor on my head was another bonus!




so with that out the way time to pull bits off etc..
before (already had ARP bolts and WPC treated shells from Lang Racing


tolerances on the new bearings were all in spec, though closer to tight than loose. Most were right on 0.040mm. Journal 6 had a slight taper from 0.040 to 0.045mm

So the good thing was this was largely a 'waste of time' as the shells were all fine. However havent ventilated a few S50B30s this was cheap piece of mind ;)
and all back together again

and then i ran out of TWS... 17l aint fun

also changed from WIX Racing (51222R) to FRAM Racing (HP6a) filters for the tank filter. No real science there, just wanted to try a new brand I guess. Thanks Summit

oh and the exhaust this guy had on the car! big box auto parts store with bubble gum welds! is it bad that when you take your car to a reputable shop you feel the need to disclose that is not your handy work?



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