What did you do to your E30 today?

[whitebulat22]

Spent 3 hours removing my bumper and air dam and re-bolting them together because I was a couple cm off the first time. But I will spend more than 3 hours being happy that my fender lines are perfectly aligned now!

[rzerob]

Installed 21.5lbs injectors, fuel pressure sender, and Bimmer world oil distribution block with oil pressure sender and oil temp sender.

[ZomBAR15]

Almost done!

[ZomBAR15]

It's a holset h1c

[2santiago]

What brand for the turbo


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[ZomBAR15]

[rzerob]

I installed my Garagistic odometer gears and then reinstalled my gauge cluster.

[ZomBAR15]

[rzerob]

I installed my Podi gauge.





And I installed my new tune from SSSquid. Turner motorsports one will be for sale soon.

[rzerob]

Fixed my NRG hub so the horn works. And wiring, lots of wiring.

[pandaboo911]

What the fuck you could do heart surgery in that engine bay dude. Pretty clean for a racecar


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[Reichart12]

My goodness, that looks fantastic!

[burkey001]

very close to finishing this evolution of it. engine swap #3.

ain't gonna lie, pretty pleased with how this has come together. has taken ages as per usual, but I never in a rush. I find this very therapeutic release to my daily job.

apologies for the pic overload, but this is the thread for it!


pedal box with expansion loom for extra inputs/outputs later


bosch ignitors mounted, via flying loom on an AS016-26 plug


keeping things tidy with glue on T&B cable mounts. Yes, I should have used a boot there not glue line


reservoirs with -4 Speedflow 200 series AN fittings, 79 pin AS firewall connector, MCS custom 2 way coils (blurry, sorry). Not overly thrilled with the power cable runs but that will change once the PDM15 goes in

tidying up the FPR and pressure sensor. 'Making do' with a run of 200 series Speedflow on one of those legs (covered in heat shrink) until the correct Goodridge XF arrives


View of firewall harness mounting with a little carbon plate to mount the SKM knock sensor loom. Damper canisters mount to strut bar



cabling, sensors and cleanness. I plan to make a new vacuum rail, as really all it needs to do these days to connect to the FPR. Idle speed is done via Motec DBW and there's no brake booster so very little need for vacuum or throttle bypass for idle speed.



steering wheel buttons sub loom and AS connector


the office


post pressure stage oil filter and remote primer head, plus various hose management


plenty of room here...


bit busy here

but reasonable steering room here

and new pipes. I already think this may be too raspy



what my neighbour calls the flux capacitor



fuel system with feed and return filters on sealing quick disconnects for leak free filter changes


just about buttoned up


little odyssey 680


surprisingly fits in all rather well

[burkey001]

Got it to move under it's own power!

Had been having trouble my clutch to engage in a G260 box. Clutch is a 7.25 twin plate AP Racing setup that was made for BMW Motorsport between 1993 and 1995 (pulled from another car, where it was too painful to drive on street), so a little hard to find info for. Their tech support was super helpful and sent me some tech drawings and specs.






I suspected my clutch slave wasn't throwing the fork far enough. So I had to do some investigation and measurement to figure out what was up.


I took the following measurements
a) height of the pressure plate mating surface / fingers from the engine block mounting surface
b) depth of the face of the throwout bearing from the face of the gearbox, as it mounts to engine block, when clutch fork is fully retracted and extended
c) free throw range of the clutch slave.
d) length of the clutch fork, the position of the throwout bearing along the fork and the angle of motion of the fork
e) movement needed to fully disengage the clutch

From there figured out how far the gap between the pressure plate fingers and the throw out bearing face.
Where there was a gap, and there was, figure out how far the clutch slave has to move in order to move the throwout bearing X mm so the clutch disengages.
few checks and such.
LONG story short
a) new push rod made
b) i'm pretty good at removing and reinstalling gearbox in the car now. even get the torque wrench on the end of 3 wobble bars!


It also helped that I drilled a small hole in the bellhousing so I could stick a little endoscope in there to see what was happening.




end game - car moves by itself. First time in quite a while.:)

[Mr. Wolfe]

^^^ Awesome and congrats!

Mr. Wolfe