Japandrew73's OEM Euro Restore

[BrewCity11]

50K means it sat and needs fresh gaskets, listen to at least jean, no offense farbin (i agree with you but hes not going to go that deep, i wish i had...) any way, that lower timing cover will leak, if you have the gasket just replace it cause again it WILL leak. also make sure when they machine the head you have the upper cover machined with it.

Also replace the guide rails cause its a sad day when they break... they are the weak link and you dont want to risk it fail cause well once the m30 is in... it has to come all the way out for alot of things... like the cap and rotor ;)

I think we all agree on this. Andrew, this isn't a "while i'm in there" type thing.

Think of it like this; Since you SHOULD take the timing cover off, "while you're in there", you can clean the inside of it up:D

[Farbin Kaiber]

Only a bit offended.

[Hick]

....also make sure when they machine the head you have the upper cover machined with it....

lol, i always forget to do this

[RickSloan]

50K means it sat and needs fresh gaskets, listen to at least jean, no offense farbin (i agree with you but hes not going to go that deep, i wish i had...) any way, that lower timing cover will leak, if you have the gasket just replace it cause again it WILL leak. also make sure when they machine the head you have the upper cover machined with it.

Also replace the guide rails cause its a sad day when they break... they are the weak link and you dont want to risk it fail cause well once the m30 is in... it has to come all the way out for alot of things... like the cap and rotor ;)

[Hick]

regardless of the age/mileage its smart to replace the piston rings, clean the bores, replace the bearings, chain, gears/cogs if they need it.

its cheap insurance...

[Jean]

Well, it makes sense to do the front/rear seals right? Your gasket sets come with those I am pretty sure. So, to do the front one the cover needs to come over and there you have your two lower and two upper timing cover gaskets. And access to the timing guides/rails is right there, you don't have to remove the crank or anything to get to those :)

For reference, you can see the two plastic/metal guides for the main chain and 1 for the oil pump. These parts aren't even expensive, unlike the ones on the M motors ;)




But if you are 100% sure block was replaced, do you have paperwork on that? I would pull the chain to a side and inspect the timing rails.

[Farbin Kaiber]

I promise I won't laugh when it gets rod knock, or, chain slap months after you wedge it in there, I just won't.

[Japandrew73]

Keep in mind everybody the block has roughly 50k on it, it's in good enough condition as is. I'm replacing every gasket (except the timing gasket). It's hard not to get a case of the "while-you're-in-theres" but you have to draw the line somewhere otherwise you'll get into a full rebuild which I'm not going to do. I appreciate the feedback and advice but I'm not taking the timing cover off, when the timing cover comes off it starts to get a lot more difficult.

And to the dremel comment, nothing but a wire brush and degreaser were used on the piston.

[Jean]

Set of rings from autohauzaz was $150 iirc, bearings were another $150 for both sets... Andrew, if you are not going to do those AT LEAST do the timing guides/rails, they are most likely overdue.

[Farbin Kaiber]

Thanks for the constructive criticisms guys :) (not sarcastic)
Before the block is repainted and everything on it is cleaned, I'm going to take a few bottles of brake cleaner and shoot the whole thing down. That's when the head bolt holes along with most everything else will be cleaned for the final time before painting the block.

At this point I've done all the dis-assembling I'm going to do. I'm not going to be going any further into the rebuild (not taking the head or block apart piece by piece). So at this point it's a lot of cleaning and re-painting.

I'm sorry to rain on your parade, and I know you are gonna do what you are gonna do, but, I'd put a new set of rings and crank bearings in there while you have it as torn down as you do. You are gonna replace the oil pan gasket and head gasket at minimum in the future when those things need attention, so why not do it now? I wouldn't expect it to cost you more than $150 at the top end.

[RickSloan]

Hey, no problem, I mean, what are we all gonna do with this lil stuff knowledge aside from give it away free on the internet?

yea i mean it was giving to me by others so i guess its my duty to pass it on... it is what it is

[Japandrew73]

Thanks for the constructive criticisms guys :) (not sarcastic)
Before the block is repainted and everything on it is cleaned, I'm going to take a few bottles of brake cleaner and shoot the whole thing down. That's when the head bolt holes along with most everything else will be cleaned for the final time before painting the block.

At this point I've done all the dis-assembling I'm going to do. I'm not going to be going any further into the rebuild (not taking the head or block apart piece by piece). So at this point it's a lot of cleaning and re-painting.

[BrewCity11]

so i guess i will be of help, fill those head bolt holes with peniatrant/degreaser/etc and let it sit for a few hours, then flip the block so they drain and repeat.

Get those as clean as you can cause if they are filled with old oil which there are now, cause all m30's do it. You can crack the block when tightening down the head.

Or leave it flipped over, and use the spray nozzle with the thin tube attached so you can spray up. That and compressed air.

Good tip on the cut bolt too!

[Farbin Kaiber]

Hey, no problem, I mean, what are we all gonna do with this lil stuff knowledge aside from give it away free on the internet?

[RickSloan]

Also, an old head bolt with four cuts along (perpendicular to threads) the body of the bolt can be used for chasing those threads, after they are cleaned as above.

ah yes i forgot this, thank you