Japandrew73's OEM Euro Restore

[Japandrew73]

I don't off top of my head, sorry. I believe there was a thread with pics of some limited production m30 cars made in the 80-90s but not too many details... Those position numbers are all made up anyway, so you are OK with cutting the firewall after you've done all this work on your car? I am a little surprised actually lol I thought you'd want something that looks 100% factory.

You should really do a 2.0L m10 + turbo like the 2002s :)

Yea but getting any power in the 20+ hp range on an M10 can assure you bankruptcy.

I know all the positions are made up but they are actually helpful. Taking a second glance at the 333i engine bay, I'm not cutting out any of the firewall. I'll have the engine as far back as possible without cutting anything. The way I see it, the farther back, the better weight distribution and handling.

[Jean]

If you want to fit a mechanical clutch fan, you'll do lots of BFH to firewall action hehe. Can't wait to see your swap dude.

[Japandrew73]

If you want to fit a mechanical clutch fan, you'll do lots of BFH to firewall action hehe. Can't wait to see your swap dude.

Hah thanks. It'll be interesting. I guess I'll cross that road when the time comes, but position 3 would be the most ideal, although my A/C box is in the firewall so cutting into it 4-6cm may not be an option. I think I'll try to shoot for position 3, and if it doesn't work out, position 2 is the back up. It's a couple weeks off though so i'll worry about other things until then. thanks for your support and help from your thread! Having another M10 to M30 swap documented so well is going to help me big time. :)

[Javier h]

The one-piece insulation taken from a later e30 model worked on my 84 318i. Everything clicked in perfectly and dressed it just well. I never noticed anything rubbing against the bay etc. It avoided the hassles of stripping the glue etc and was a twenty dollar, 5 minute, permanent fix :).

I didn't have any extensive washer lines, so I'm not sure about your car and your concerns about the new engine clearance are probably warranted. The foam is obviously period correct, so I'm leaning to this approach but both should be fine and functional on a stock set-up. The aftermarket ones available when I had the car was that silver metalic shinny space age stuff. I had mix feelings about it which is why I opted for the one piece.

Sorry to hear about the head gasket. I would flush my rad religiously every other year to keep things cooler. Most people really over look this and its just a cheap maintanance that's well worth it. Also, everyone says that DTC is where the temp gauge needs to be. When I finally got around to replacing the original radiator, the gauge was almost always at the 10 o'clock handle. It stayed that way for years.

Not convince that age killed it but definitely a great valid reason to continue the planned updates.

[BimmerSteven]

Fuck you you fuckin' fucks.

[Japandrew73]

Hah that's awesome than you :pimp:

[gazellebeigem3]

you have very delicate, feminine features. i would like to caress your face.

[hot karl marx]

you look like a more cracked out version of spicoli

[Bimmerista]

:rofl:

[Japandrew73]

you have very delicate, feminine features. i would like to caress your face.

And this is why I don't post any pictures of myself with my car.

[Miasma]

You just look like an average 17 year old kid to me.

[Japandrew73]

You just look like an average 17 year old kid to me.

Yea but weirdos like gazellebeigem3 and hot karl marx will always make some kind of comment.

Either way I'm %90 sure i've found the donor car. b34. More updates later in the week

[Japandrew73]

I spent hours on the hood insulation trying to get the residue off and made almost no progress as all. It's a fucking nightmare trying to get that stuff off. I'll give it another go tomorrow.

In the mail I got the tow hook extender for the mtech 1 front spoiler. Parts 8-11

It's NLA so I had to buy it used. It had some surface rust and paint left over but no big deal.


I used my dremel to take it down to bare metal, I got about half way there and my dremel broke.

A gear inside it actually stripped and was shredded when I opened it up. So I have to get a new dremel now. When I get another dremel the tow hook extender will finish being brought down to bare metal, then sanded with sandpaper for a smooth finish, then primer then paint then clear.

[Holland]

Taking the glue off of the underside of the hood is hell. I had to use gratuitous amounts of brake cleaner and a plastic scraper. It took me hours and left a huge mess of glue residue under my hood. I will never do that again. I feel your pain.

[Japandrew73]

I feel your pain.

At one point I was about ready to say "fuck it" and buy an entirely new hood, have it repainted, and then apply new foam. I wish I could do that :( I need to use all my money for the swap though