The Alfa Thread
Collapse
X
-
love GTVs....Love CSLs...
but this?....FUGLY!!!!!!!
Leave a comment:
-




A few shots from the Alameda All Italian day show last month.
WillLeave a comment:
-
There are some weird things going on with that car. The corner markers are off a US spec 71 or later GTV, it should have small round ones, or none at all. The Vin# is really wonky, its my understanding that all 1750 GTVs are 153XXXX, not 135XXXX. This looks like it was originally a euro spec car so perhaps the 105.44 cars were a 135 prefix. I will say that it seems like a solid car aside from the rust that has returned in the front fenders.
It will be interesting to see where this one ends up.
WillLeave a comment:
-
-
-
Sliding blocks are cool, but not if you actually want to use the car on the street. I didn't want to change anything on the body, just adapt a rear end that had a good LSD and better gear ratios (because a 4.56 open with 160 hp is going to be useless) Larry Jr from Alfa Parts Exchange did the work. Really all that was done was the trunion mount was removed, and the correct tabs welded onto the housings. All the stock hardware just bolts on.Oh, I didn't know you were adapting a 105 axle/diff to a 101 chassis.
If you're confident that the trailing arms and A-arm mounts to the body are square, then the differential mounting adapter would be suspect. Looks like you needed a ball mount on top of the diff. How was that done?
If you were going through that much trouble, this would have been a good time to ditch all that and go with other locating systems like a Watts, Panhard, or my favorite, the sliding block.
These systems lower the rear roll center, allowing the car to corner flatter. My adaptation of the sliding block deletes the bar going across the chassis where the trunnion bar would have lived. Instead, I have a titanium bar reaching from the diff to the rear bulkhead sheetmetal (reinforced, of course) to prevent differential tilt fore and aft, while still allowing it to pivot and oscillate with suspension movements.
[ATTACH]117609[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]117610[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]117611[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]117612[/ATTACH]
As far as I know, there is nothing bent. It was all straight when I pulled the old rear end off, and was still straight when I repainted everything. There were some big washers that came with the poly bushings I installed, but there was no way in hell the parts were going to fit with the washers in place. I was in a hurry to get the car back on the ground so I could move it to a safer location as the fires got close to St Helena. I do need to go back and look more closely at everything.
WillLeave a comment:
-
A number of years ago, there was a Sprint race car running with us in SOVREN, red with yellow accents, that had a sliding block rear end. This was early in my vintage racing, before I had one, didn't know what it was, and I used to follow this thing on the race track, staring at that yoke peeking out from under the rear apron. What was that?! Mesmerizing to me, and definitely an inspiration for my own later adaptation.Leave a comment:
-
That would be me. I have Delrin surfaces lining the yoke, and used Nylatron for the block. I learned a lot about UHMW plastics in my research for that project! (Most of which I've forgotten by now).Leave a comment:
-
Wow, that's pretty slick! I read that back in the day, the mechanics would grease that slide up before every race. Were you the guy that did the design with Delrin blocks?Leave a comment:
-
Oh, I didn't know you were adapting a 105 axle/diff to a 101 chassis.
If you're confident that the trailing arms and A-arm mounts to the body are square, then the differential mounting adapter would be suspect. Looks like you needed a ball mount on top of the diff. How was that done?
If you were going through that much trouble, this would have been a good time to ditch all that and go with other locating systems like a Watts, Panhard, or my favorite, the sliding block.
These systems lower the rear roll center, allowing the car to corner flatter. My adaptation of the sliding block deletes the bar going across the chassis where the trunnion bar would have lived. Instead, I have a titanium bar reaching from the diff to the rear bulkhead sheetmetal (reinforced, of course) to prevent differential tilt fore and aft, while still allowing it to pivot and oscillate with suspension movements.
Leave a comment:


Leave a comment: