Does anyone know if harbor freight torque wrenches are accurate? I only need to use it a hand full of times.
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You can check it by clamping the square of the torque wrench (the part the socket snaps to) in a vise, then hang a known weight a known distance from the center of the head of the wrench.
I.E. - Hang 100 pounds 2 feet down the handle from the center of the head. With the wrench set to 200 ft lbs, this amount of weight should make it click.
You can use more or less weight or move further up or down the wrench as well. Just take the weight divided by the distance to figure out the torque setting. Works with inches/ inch pounds too.Last edited by AndrewBird; 02-29-2012, 07:21 PM.
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$10 with coupon, can't beat it. I keep mine at home for torquing lugs. However, when I rebuilt the top end on my 318 at home, I brought my snap-on home from work to torque the head.
Open the manual for the specs, step 1 is 35lb/ft or something like that. Snappy only goes down to 50. Fuck. Well, take a look at the HF and it goes down to 25 or whatever. Fuck it, why not? It definitely *felt* like the proper torque, and the car ran great with no leaks. Sure beat driving 1hr both ways to get my 3/8 snappy from the shop.'84 318i - Lapisblau/Schwarz (in cryosleep)
'06 330i - Titansilber/Schwarz
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Originally posted by markseven View PostFor lugs the HF will be fine.
Grassroots Motorsports did a comparison test with a HF, SnapOn and one other, maybe SK, and the HF was the most accurate by far (it was like four years ago, I can't remember the details).Originally posted by LJ851 View PostThe entire point of a torque wrench is to be able to torque accurately. Why would you even bother with an inaccurate one?
If you are going to be using a torque wrench, do yourself a favor and get a decent one.Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries
www.gutenparts.com
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Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View PostYou can check it by clamping the square of the torque wrench (the part the socket snaps to) in a vise, then hang a known weight a known distance from the center of the head of the wrench.
I.E. - Hang 100 pounds 2 feet down the handle from the center of the head. With the wrench set to 50 ft lbs, this amount of weight should make it click.
You can use more or less weight or move further up or down the wrench as well. Just take the weight divided by the distance to figure out the torque setting. Works with inches/ inch pounds too.
Much easier would be 50lbs. one foot down the handle.2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd
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Anyway, the HF torque wrench is fine for torquing wheel lugs. I wouldn't use it for anything serious.
If you're really intent on it, the Snap-On torque wrenches are seriously kick ass. Especially the ones that you don't have to reset to zero when you're done. IIRC, CDI makes at least some of them, so they are a cheaper alternative.2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd
sigpic
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Sort of OT....which do you prefer/find most accurate?
A) Beam type.
B) Click type.
C) Electronic.
I was always told the beam type was used to calibrate the click and electronic types....buttt, the click is preferred, especially for automotive apps, as long as it's calibrated properly.
Thoughts?
Recommendations?1974.5 Jensen Healey : 2003 330i/5
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