OFFICIAL Land Rover thread.

[E30_Pare]

I've been having some issues with the Disco lately. It developed a weird 30-50mph shake and sometimes I'll get a noise at low speed. I jacked the car up and decided it was most likely the front driveshaft since there was a little bit of radial play where the two halves come together. I figured I could pop the front shaft off, drive it around, and be certain. Well I can't get my center diff to lock.

Any help would be appreciated

Litterally had this issue with my p38 the other day. Drove it down the street then snap sounded like a blown tire. I sheered the U joint to the transfer case connect to the front drive shaft. The driveshaft itself smacked around the undercarriage pretty good and smashed up the trans oil pan. Luckily it happened next to some guy wrenching on their car, and I borrowed some tools to get the driveshaft removed and drove it home. This is the second time this has happened with this p38...

[slammin.e28]

^^ Ever get it to work?

Almost seems to me that the diff lock isn't engaging/releasing all the way.

[acolella76]

I've been having some issues with the Disco lately. It developed a weird 30-50mph shake and sometimes I'll get a noise at low speed. I jacked the car up and decided it was most likely the front driveshaft since there was a little bit of radial play where the two halves come together. I figured I could pop the front shaft off, drive it around, and be certain. Well I can't get my center diff to lock.

I turned the nipple counter clock wise (when viewed from under the car, looking up) and the car wouldn't move in drive or reverse. When putting it back in park I got this really terrible rattling/grinding noise - although this might have been the bolts on the TC flange. I turned the nipple back to where it was before, and then tried again. Same thing. I turned the nipple in the clockwise direction this time, still got the same result. What the hell am I doing wrong? I've heard some say you have to move a little bit for it to engage, but I have about 2 feet of room before I start rolling down a steep hill and I'm not feeling very lucky.

Any help would be appreciated

[mrsleeve]

Lol not going to disagree there just passing the find on is all

[Wschnitz]

Just buy one with a bad engine and TD5 swap it :P Depending on your local nazi laws.

[mrsleeve]

Yeah you can find D II for that kinda money though I never seem to find them after looking for nearly 2 years. Those tend to be the early years for the II and a lot of the DI's and with a bit more mileage on them. Really the only D II you should really consider is the 04, it has the Center diff lock option (forgot to check this one) back from the factory and the oil pump issues resolved so they dont fail as often. And a couple of other reliability issues fixed. Because of those updates and them having a slight face lift and the newest of the breed they tend to command a bit higher price

Yeah seems kinda high I agree, If it were me I would walk away if I could not get it for 6500. if all the rest checks out, like full maintenance docs, Needs NOTHING and has had lots of recent costly maintenance done

[Wschnitz]

8k for a 100k+ miles Disco 2?

Id understand maybe if It was euro TD5. But damn that seems high, I usually see similar sounding ones sell for like 2-3k.

or am I confusing them with disco 1's?

[mrsleeve]

There is a really nice Disco II at our local consignment lot, if anyone is looking. Its an 04 (no oil pump issues) Looks to have been a southern truck most of its life ( NO RUST other than very very minimal surface on a few edges underneath and has TX tags)

What I could see as it sits, for $8000.00
04 Disco II in Alveston Red (Dark maroon, red) over Tan
120k
a couple of small door dings
NO real scratching,
Looks to be maintained well
Tires are 65% Bridgestone Highway skins
rear ladder has got some rust going on
Drivers seat is a little dingey and beat up looking but no rips or tears or cracks I could see, Pass side looks great as do the backs and carpet
has the 2 rear jump seats

Over all looks like a great DD/starting point for a fun rig. If I had not just bought an FJ I would be considering this for my self

[slammin.e28]

I just love to whore this thing out lol


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[slammin.e28]

M21 + intercooler + bigger tarbo = profit

While it would weigh nearly as much as the truck it self a slightly warmed up 12v 6bt...... (this is what I would do, with a NV4500 though would the RRC stock axle housings take the torque)

Or a more common small diesel swap though kinda costly, a 4bt...

Was told this truck had a Cummins swap in it. The rear axle is a "Salisbury" Dana 60, stock.

The M21 though....it would be awesome, and fit the character. M30 prob too long....I kind of want to keep the sunk in center grille.

[mrsleeve]

M21 + intercooler + bigger tarbo = profit

While it would weigh nearly as much as the truck it self a slightly warmed up 12v 6bt...... (this is what I would do, with a NV4500 though would the RRC stock axle housings take the torque)

Or a more common small diesel swap though kinda costly, a 4bt...

[LateFan]

"wwwWWHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH...." ......mud splatters.....

[slammin.e28]

Yeah, low revs and torquey. Why not a classic Rover diesel? You don't really want it to go...fast....do you?

Buhhhh buhhhtttt it's only like 2800 lbs.

I just wanna lock diffs and spin all 4 wheels.

[LateFan]

Needs something torquey.

Yeah, low revs and torquey. Why not a classic Rover diesel? You don't really want it to go...fast....do you?

[slammin.e28]

Do another 24v imo. Or the M30. Needs something torquey.

Only problem I have with doing a 24v is my friend has my old 24v engine setup....but he built it to 3.2 with an M3 block. Also, the whole of Roverdom knows it because he's really active in the club. So I'd be the runner up.

Need something different.

If I could I'd M60 it. Love that v8. It's too wide though, DOHC and all.

I have M30s, maybe a B35....have to look. I do have that M21 I need to rebuild.....but it needs a FULL rebuild.

Maybe if I can get an M51/7 from EU.....hmm......