Mountain bike help needed

[JGood]

I have a 2008 Jamis Parker I, which I've been riding for the past 2-3 years. I bought it used. The chainstay cracked the other day, which apparently is a common problem.



I contacted Jamis to see if they still make the chainstay, and can sell me either that or a whole frame. Haven't heard back yet. I'm wondering if I should even bother, since it seems like EVERYONE breaks these frames.


I'm wondering what the best course of action is. Should I just find another frame and transfer everything over, or is it not worth it with the parts on this bike? I want to spend as little as possible, but I want a quality bike that won't break. I'm definitely not in the position to spend $1500+ on a bike.


I found this frame for sale:

http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?product=85299&title=2008-specialized-fsr-xc-pro-size-large&cat=7

Seems like a good deal to me, thoughts? Will all of my parts work on this frame? Here are the specs for both bikes:

http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2008&Brand=Jamis&Model=Parker%201.0&Type=bike#.UYFv3Urc6aR

http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2008&Brand=specialized&Model=FSR+XC+Pro&Type=bike#.UYFv3Urc6aR

Any other recommendations on frames? I can't find anything new for under $1k, but I'm not really sure where to look. I'm not huge into riding, just like to go out once or twice a week and hit the local trails, and I want a do-it-all bike. Nothing extreme, no huge air or crazy downhill stuff. But I do want full suspension.

[lambo]

Most modern bike parts are pretty regulated. I don't think you'll have a problem swapping all the parts over.

[JGood]

That's what I was thinking. But I see some bikes listing different headset measurements... threaded, unthreaded, etc... What am I looking for there, what part is that and what parts will work with what?

How about this frame?

http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?product=85283&title=felt-compulsion-1-shimano-xt-wh-m776-wheelset-shimano-xt-brakeset&cat=7

That's a $4500 bike, I'm assuming the frame is good... especially for $350.

[E30Jigzaw]

Go full suspension just get another frame and swap everything ...

[FredK]

If you get the Specialized you'll probably just need to get a new seatpost and new shifter cables. You might need to get new hydraulic line for the rear brake, but you may not.

Both bikes have likely have 1 1/8" threadless headsets.

The Specialized has a 30.9mm diameter seatpost, so your Jamis at 31.6mm won't fit. Front derailleurs are both 34.9mm clamp diameter.

You'll probably want to install a new chain at the proper length, but it'll probably be very close anyway since chainstay length is nearly uniform between brands.

Bottom bracket width is 68mm on the Jamis, not sure on the Specialized. BBs are commonly 68 or 73mm wide.

[oliver.r]

look into pinkbike.com good deals there

[mcskibadee1]

That is a manufacturing defect and they should replace that frame for free.

[JGood]

If you get the Specialized you'll probably just need to get a new seatpost and new shifter cables. You might need to get new hydraulic line for the rear brake, but you may not.

Both bikes have likely have 1 1/8" threadless headsets.

The Specialized has a 30.9mm diameter seatpost, so your Jamis at 31.6mm won't fit. Front derailleurs are both 34.9mm clamp diameter.

You'll probably want to install a new chain at the proper length, but it'll probably be very close anyway since chainstay length is nearly uniform between brands.

Bottom bracket width is 68mm on the Jamis, not sure on the Specialized. BBs are commonly 68 or 73mm wide.

Excellent info, thanks man!

[JGood]

That is a manufacturing defect and they should replace that frame for free.

I'm not the original owner, and it's out of the warranty period. Not to mention I haven't heard back from customer service.

[Thizzelle]

that's a bad design, why did they make the arm above it a pivot point? of course it's going to break right there because your load in pressing down in the middle and the road is pushing up on tire so it was flexing the fuck out of that weld. More so if the bolt was a little loose, just fatigue cracked that bitch

[R3Z3N]

^Many bikes are like that.

[quikveedb2]

Most modern bike parts are pretty regulated. I don't think you'll have a problem swapping all the parts over.

False, FredK is more on point and mentioned most of the following. You need to look at headset diameter and whether it's internal or external, BB spindle width & shell diameter, seat-post diameter (for front derailleur & seat post sizing), rear hub width and dropout type, brake mount type, and head tube angle if you're trying to be able to just swap parts over. Make sure you buy a frame designed for the travel of your fork or it'll handle like shit. That's most of it, chain might come into play, hydraulic lines might need to be trimmed or replaced, definitely all new shift cables & housing, and in all likely-hood the rear shock will not swap over, as frames are designed around a specific stroke length & eye-to eye measurement so if you do go the new frame route buy one with a shock included.

Aluminum mountain bikes that are regularly ridden live about 5-6 years, I'd wager that yours has seen about that many years of use. Aluminum just gets tired after a while, and so do components. What kind of condition is the rest of the bike in? The reality is, buying a new bike from a big name like Specialized or Trek may be a better option; they buy large amounts of quality parts at a discount, and are thereby able to sell a complete bike for less than the (retail) cost of the sum of its parts. Any shop is gonna charge you $60-90/hour to swap the rear triangle (probably plan on about 2 hours labor to swap in a new triangle.) Swapping parts to a new frame will cost you that much more in labor; facing & chasing, pressing the headset, re-cabling, cutting hydraulic lines & re-bleeding, and so-on, and you're still left with a Frankenstein bike with old and potentially worn out parts (I'm looking at you, drive-train) that'll never be worth what you have in it.

The cheap thing to do is replace the rear triangle or chain-stay. Bam; rolling, riding bike.

Not trying to be a negative Nancy, just speaking from experience.

[JGood]

False, FredK is more on point and mentioned most of the following. You need to look at headset diameter and whether it's internal or external, BB spindle width & shell diameter, seat-post diameter (for front derailleur & seat post sizing), rear hub width and dropout type, brake mount type, and head tube angle if you're trying to be able to just swap parts over. Make sure you buy a frame designed for the travel of your fork or it'll handle like shit. That's most of it, chain might come into play, hydraulic lines might need to be trimmed or replaced, definitely all new shift cables & housing, and in all likely-hood the rear shock will not swap over, as frames are designed around a specific stroke length & eye-to eye measurement so if you do go the new frame route buy one with a shock included.

Aluminum mountain bikes that are regularly ridden live about 5-6 years, I'd wager that yours has seen about that many years of use. Aluminum just gets tired after a while, and so do components. What kind of condition is the rest of the bike in? The reality is, buying a new bike from a big name like Specialized or Trek may be a better option; they buy large amounts of quality parts at a discount, and are thereby able to sell a complete bike for less than the (retail) cost of the sum of its parts. Any shop is gonna charge you $60-90/hour to swap the rear triangle (probably plan on about 2 hours labor to swap in a new triangle.) Swapping parts to a new frame will cost you that much more in labor; facing & chasing, pressing the headset, re-cabling, cutting hydraulic lines & re-bleeding, and so-on, and you're still left with a Frankenstein bike with old and potentially worn out parts (I'm looking at you, drive-train) that'll never be worth what you have in it.

The cheap thing to do is replace the rear triangle or chain-stay. Bam; rolling, riding bike.

Not trying to be a negative Nancy, just speaking from experience.

Ugh.

Better to get this reality check now, than as I'm paying the bills, though. So thank you for all of the info.

I'll wait a few more days to see if Jamis can get me the new chainstay.

[Nick_S]

Quick google search to see what frame that was brought up numerous photo's of the same problem. If they can get you a new chain stay I'll fix and sell the frame ASAP. Would never want a frame with a known history of catastrophic failure.

Since it's out of warranty, have you spoken with them about a crash replacement frame? When I worked at a shop both Cannondale and Trek offered "crash replacement" if a frame was broken out of warranty. Basically a current frame of equivalent spec and value at a pretty good discount.

[lambo]

False, FredK is more on point and mentioned most of the following. You need to look at headset diameter and whether it's internal or external, BB spindle width & shell diameter, seat-post diameter (for front derailleur & seat post sizing), rear hub width and dropout type, brake mount type, and head tube angle if you're trying to be able to just swap parts over. Make sure you buy a frame designed for the travel of your fork or it'll handle like shit. That's most of it, chain might come into play, hydraulic lines might need to be trimmed or replaced, definitely all new shift cables & housing, and in all likely-hood the rear shock will not swap over, as frames are designed around a specific stroke length & eye-to eye measurement so if you do go the new frame route buy one with a shock included.

Aluminum mountain bikes that are regularly ridden live about 5-6 years, I'd wager that yours has seen about that many years of use. Aluminum just gets tired after a while, and so do components. What kind of condition is the rest of the bike in? The reality is, buying a new bike from a big name like Specialized or Trek may be a better option; they buy large amounts of quality parts at a discount, and are thereby able to sell a complete bike for less than the (retail) cost of the sum of its parts. Any shop is gonna charge you $60-90/hour to swap the rear triangle (probably plan on about 2 hours labor to swap in a new triangle.) Swapping parts to a new frame will cost you that much more in labor; facing & chasing, pressing the headset, re-cabling, cutting hydraulic lines & re-bleeding, and so-on, and you're still left with a Frankenstein bike with old and potentially worn out parts (I'm looking at you, drive-train) that'll never be worth what you have in it.

The cheap thing to do is replace the rear triangle or chain-stay. Bam; rolling, riding bike.

Not trying to be a negative Nancy, just speaking from experience.

Damn... My bad, guys. That's crazy that a lot of this stuff isn't standardized sizes yet. I guess some of the geometry aspects make sense but why the fuck can't companies just make one fucking seat-post diameter...