Mk60e5 ABS
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Great work on those sensors! I love the rear solution.
I need to get into 3D printing, as I feel like I’m now 10 years behind. I’m currently figuring out my setup since I’m using e46 front hubs and they’re about 12-13mm further out from the e30’s standard tone ring location.Leave a comment:
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Rear was a lot more work. One cut for each sensor and 10 minutes with a carbide bit on the dremel. I didn't pull the rear hubs to get pics but INPA is reading as it should.
New sensors are too shallow to work, I did test hoping but no good.
A few minutes on each sensor with the dremel and cut the tab off with my reciprocating hand saw. Had to remove the entire bottom "lip" to get the depth right.
Much better! I added a sleeve to the bottom because there wasn't much sensor left to clamp. All 3 pieces of print are bonded together and to the sensor.
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Front adapters fitted installed to test.
Good to go! Now onto the back.
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I am onboard the MK60 train now. Not because I track the car but because I want more room for an airbox and I'm determined to get cruise working on the N52 swap(even if I end up having to switch half of the Z4 parts into the car). I have the Z4 MK60e5 which will work with e30 rings and has a much smaller steering angle sensor.
So far I've managed to get the Steering angle sensor coded to match the VIN on my MSV70 and coded the MK60 for options I want. If anyone goes down this route I made a DSC_85.SSD VO file you can have for NCSExpert, you will only need to change the VIN.
Front E46 sensors fit on the E30 with a 3d printed adapter, I haven't tested the rear yet but it looks like the e46 sensors will require modification in a addition to a printed adapter. Front is buttoned up. Hoping posting here will motivate me to get started on making new brake lines and running new sensor wires. I went with NICOP when I changed the lines before but they are already starting to turn green so I will probably use stainless this time.
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It's all from Summit. 25' coils of stainless tubing and AN fittings.hoveringuy, just curious where you got your fittings and brake line. They look like quality parts.Leave a comment:
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hoveringuy, just curious where you got your fittings and brake line. They look like quality parts.Leave a comment:
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OK, install is totally complete, brakes are bled, INPA is showing everything is GTG, no leaks, etc. I am super happy. In the end it was a lot of work to run all new brake lines and move the unit into the cockpit but nothing too terrible. Having a good flaring tool is very much needed and is a false economy if you get a sub-par one which makes garbage flares.
I ended up using around 50 feet of NiCop and a bunch of flare fittings, a few spools of 20awg wire, 4 decent wire strippers/crimpers, some deutsch connectors and some wire management stuff.Last edited by Skafrog; 08-11-2025, 07:40 AM.Leave a comment:
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The current state. Ran a prop valve where I can reach it while strapped in. Put the ABS in the cockpit under the dash, pulled all the wiring off the front of the car that was used for ABS and re-routed all of it into a 12 pin connector so the Happy Cactus converter can plug directly into the chassis now. It's a mess but it's coming together. The electrical is done, everything is happy in INPA. I did notice that I have a 2008 yaw sensor with the "B" plug interface and it actually required a different pinout than what's on the happy cactus garage wiring diagram. Im getting all of this together and I'll make a separate post at some point to share my own experiences, but so far, so good. i'll also share the 3d printed mounts which helped out a lot.Leave a comment:
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I think I just used the the power for the original ABS,OK, making good progress. Im moving the ABS into the cockpit, so I got the factory system all taken out, the lines plumbed into the firewall, etc. I got everything ready to pin into the harness, but what did you do for the 30amp power? The factory ABS power cables are pretty big and dont seem to be on a fuse at all (?). I can take power from the fusebox somewhere since I have a lot of open spots after removing all the non-race car stuff. What gauge wire did you run for the 30 amp power? Did you run 2x 30 amp fused wires to pins 1 and 32, or did you split the wire after the fuse?
Thanks!Leave a comment:
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OK, making good progress. Im moving the ABS into the cockpit, so I got the factory system all taken out, the lines plumbed into the firewall, etc. I got everything ready to pin into the harness, but what did you do for the 30amp power? The factory ABS power cables are pretty big and dont seem to be on a fuse at all (?). I can take power from the fusebox somewhere since I have a lot of open spots after removing all the non-race car stuff. What gauge wire did you run for the 30 amp power? Did you run 2x 30 amp fused wires to pins 1 and 32, or did you split the wire after the fuse?
Thanks!Leave a comment:
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Removed it. The Mk60 (at least the E5, dunno about the earlier one..) has EBV which is electronic bias control. As it senses weight shifting off the rear it will electronically limit rear bias. It's still important to have a reasonable static bias, however, particularly in the wet (ask me how I know)Leave a comment:
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Hey gents, I sent a PM to a few people but i'll ask it here as well. What did every one do with the factory rear brake pressure valve that sits under the booster in the OEM configuration? Just remove it? Install some rear brake bias valve or something? Thanks!Leave a comment:
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Thank you hoveringuy . I already posted to the Facebook page. I believe with a little help i will get it done and i believe that i will soon order the parts. Best regards, Denis.Leave a comment:

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