Originally posted by NuthinFancy
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here you go yoshi.
springs at F 10k/R 12k damper settings at F 17 R 15(my baseline)
front camber at 2.8 rear is 2 ish (static, i dont have adjustment plates)
and whatever the toe in in the back end is on a lowered e30. it helps alot though.
stock control arms and e36 tie rods, no spacers.
75d bushings everywhere they can replace the oem rubber.
stock sways, i wanted some body roll to help maximize grip/response
rear tires at 45 psi fronts at 35 psi
stockish power. my old m20b27 i hybrid had more than enough to get me sideways with decent smoke in 3rd with a 3.73 lsd. just had to keep up the momentum in high speed corners and pick a higher line through the turn and be generous with the throttle.
notes
if i could, i want to increase my caster to help with the steering response during fast transitions. if i could dial out .5* of rear camber to help with tire wear i would love it, but since i didnt make alot of power i really cant complain.
the rear toe in made the car fast and easy to apex through turns (toe in increases forward bite) and i like the fact that i can be fast with not much power.
this is just my thoughts on my past setup, and i hope it helps(if you knew all of this already then my bad)My feedback:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=186328
http://e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74911
Instagram:
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Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Posta good 2 way diff will usually out perform it. a friend of mine could not manji with a locked diff but could when he hopped into a car with a 2 way. Similar cars with similar setups. They were both s13s, one had a SR, the other a KA-T.
Turbo M20 on a welded 3.25
Stock M30 on a welded 3.25
That's a welded diff. Also seen many S13s manji with welded diffs as well. 2 ways are cool, but way overpriced. Unless you're in some serious drifting competition series, you're wasting money on a 2 way.Last edited by Erick; 12-01-2010, 10:30 AM.Erick Mahle | FullOpp Drift | YouTube
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Originally posted by Mr. Anderson...one of the most hardcore E30's around. :D
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Originally posted by Dj Buttchug View Postfor what its worth Ive had very good luck with welded diffs.
Full lock all the time is completely insane. If you do this be careful on the streets especially when its wet out or youll find yourself counter steering around every corner in town.
also ppl look at you weird when your make slow turns in parking lots haha
like wtf is wrong with that car?
change the fluid every 3k with something cheap and slide the shit out of your car. My welded diffs have lasted some 15k miles and I beat the piss out of em
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Originally posted by Erick View PostYour friend sucks.
That's a welded diff. Also seen many S13s manji with welded diffs as well. 2 ways are cool, but way overpriced. Unless you're in some serious drifting competition series, you're wasting money on a 2 way.
'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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Originally posted by Dude View PostIm sure they had someone watching both directions and walkie talkies or something.
Originally posted by ROLLingKINGi have a bronzit and plan on making it look sweet.Originally posted by slammin.e28Moral of this story?
If you drive your e30 on stairs, you're gonna have a bad time.
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Originally posted by Supadave View PostWait you got a welded diff with that turboed m42? that thing must be crazy!
not at the moment no. but i do have a open 373 im about to weld up :D
Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
Ig:ryno_pzk
I like the tuna here.
Originally posted by lamboButtchug. The official poster child of r3v.
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alot of people chose welded diffs because of how consistant they are.
I'd say a good setup for an e30 would be
gc coils, something around 550f 700r
22 or 25mm front sway bar. no rear bar.
thr cabs. adjust the front camber to around 2.5-3.0 degrees. it'd be wise to modify the tierods for more lock. and also it's best to space the front wheels out and not go to wide for more angle.
welded diff. I guess the ratio depends on what you're running.
if you have a stock motor a chip at the least would be pretty helpful mainly due to the higher r3v limiter.
and if it' just a weekend or track car, deffinatly a cage.
When i had my eta I slid it alot and i found that because of the short wheel base I was always almost flooring it.
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I don't FULLY agree with you on that welded differential statement. I THINK and could be completely wrong, that a lot of people go with a welded differential because it's cheap.I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.
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My Feedback Thread: Evil_Twin
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Originally posted by evil_twin View PostI don't FULLY agree with you on that welded differential statement. I THINK and could be completely wrong, that a lot of people go with a welded differential because it's cheap.
the welded diff always has 100%lock and doesn't wear out. plus if it blows you can just make another one cheap.
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