Brake Cooling Hose Routing

[GThomas]

Hey Guys,

Just installed new hubs up front the other day and installed some of the Condor brake cooler adapters that accept a 3 inch hose. I bought the 10 ft hose kit from Turner and plan on checking Home Depot for those downspout adapters to connect to the oem brake intakes. Wondering what routes you guys used for running the hose as to not interfere when wheels are at full turn. I've searched and seen some setup but was hoping to get more ideas from you guys that have done this before. Thanks!

[Beej '86 325es]

Your timing is scary...I too am just starting an almost identical project. In fact, I was just starting to research the ducts while I'm sitting here at lunch! Crazy.

I bought the Condor plates, which I hope to test fit tonight, and see if they fit alright under my Massive Sport kit. If so, I'll take them to be powder coated tomorrow.

I checked my Home Depot last week for the down spout adapters, but no luck. Yesterday I ordered some of the Garagistic adapters, and they've already been shipped.

I haven't investigated the duct routing yet, but I may buy Turner's rack stop kit to limit the steering travel. I don't know what duct Turner sells, but if it's the good stuff (Thermoid SCEET12), the duct can be formed into an oval, and it will hold it's shape. We use it in aviation a lot, and it's very durable stuff.

[djjerme]

It's hard to explain, and easier with pictures (which I don't have any handy right now.)

But you should route it in ward toward the frame stub/engine compartment, and then to the backing plate. I'll see if I can get pictures from one of the race cars later this week.

[Axxe]

No pics either but the gist of it is, run it along the frame rail using rigid pipe. Run the hose from the hub along the tie rod (nice convenient spot) then cut the two once you confirm the space your wheel takes, mark the spot on the frame closest to touch. Install so that fully extended it's just gone taught, and confirm that it folds up nicely as you go back. Use zipties as required to hold everything in place, hose clamp on the duct ends. Once you start laying it out all starts to make sense, don't be afraid to use inexpensive materials, this is just a duct diverting air, keep it secure and it'll work fine. On our chumpcar used ridgid carboard shipping tubes, pringles cans and mcdonalds cups along with dryer vent hose (the cheap shitty plastic stuff), and it worked great.

[Beej '86 325es]

Well, crap. I forgot that to install the Massive kit, the upper screw hole for the backing plate had to be cut off.

Any suggestions? I'm not a fan of only using one screw hole.

EDIT: Since I like the way the plates are scalloped, I think I'm going to try and make these work. The scallop radius matches the inside of my rotors very well. I think I'll trim off the top flange, then add a flange to pick up the other lower threaded hole on the strut.






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[jt223539]

Weld on a bracket? Don't see any other option.

Also like stated above, go in (towards the engine), then back out to the brake rotors.

An I wasn't able to find the down spout adapter in stock at any Home Depot or Lowe's, ended up finding it at a Taylor's do it center. They are $5-$7 dollars a piece, far cheaper then the garagistic price. I bought two extras. I have 2 extras, if anyone cannot find them, I will sell them for what I payed for them.

[iwantspeed]

I was the original poster that found the downspot adapters fit into the stock brake ducts.

i will be getting an alignment this week and will snap some pictures for you.

[RoccoB517]

My solution is that I rub the shit out of them, and when they are shredded I replace. There isn't much room under there.

[jt223539]

I was the original poster that found the downspot adapters fit into the stock brake ducts.

i will be getting an alignment this week and will snap some pictures for you.

I would like to post a public Thank you!

It is people like you that make me wonder around for hours in Home Depots, and wonder what wonderful race car parts I can make from their products.

[TobyB]

There's enough room- the trick is to use enough hose to get back to the frame rail almost
behind the strut. If you twist the hose enough, it will fold itself out of the way when you
hit full lock.
Then it just runs directly under the rail forward, and doesn't pop back out until you're
at a tight radius to the valence.

But I use the Mason plates, which sent the duct back at an angle.

t

[10Toes]

Weld on a bracket? Don't see any other option.

Also like stated above, go in (towards the engine), then back out to the brake rotors.

An I wasn't able to find the down spout adapter in stock at any Home Depot or Lowe's, ended up finding it at a Taylor's do it center. They are $5-$7 dollars a piece, far cheaper then the garagistic price. I bought two extras. I have 2 extras, if anyone cannot find them, I will sell them for what I payed for them.

Not sure how well those fit but I could 3d print some adapters out if anyone wants them, would probably be about the same price as those. I'll grab one of my spare inlets and draw up an adapter tomorrow.

[Beej '86 325es]

My Garagistic adapters came in the mail yesterday. The 3D printing on these isn't the greatest, but will work just fine. I think I'm just spoiled by seeing really high quality Ultem and SLS parts at work.




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[10Toes]

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1657497

Here is the model I made for people that already have a 3d printer. I could also print some sets out and sell them for around $15+shipping(not sure how much shipping would be but couldn't be too much) a set.

[Digitalwave]

Thanks for sharing that 10toes!

[vpilarrt]

Here's mine, passenger side. Homemade undertray/splitter and I don't use the inner fender plastic bits.