Chumpcar E30 325is

[trigun7469]

I am purchasing a race ready Chumpcar, and I wanted some input on the typical preparation before, during and after a race. Also some input on what to focus on as far as what breaks, and the costs associated.

[rwh11385]

If you are running Chump, you might need a lot of bondo for repairs. But I've heard they've gotten better...

Have you washed out the fuel tank? Rust particles in them are an issue, leading to clogged injectors / fuel filter. Bring a few spare filters just in case (after a wash, we stopped losing cylinders... but then 2 races later we had a hiccup coming out of corners at max torque, ended up being a clogged filter making too much work for the fuel pump).

E30s are generally robust, thankfully. Just make sure you have enough negative camber in front as to not roast your outside edges of the tires. And we've seen someone back out a front brake bracket or caliper bolt (which destroyed a lot, including the wheel) so make sure they are tightened correctly.

[djjerme]

What do you know about the car (history, prep level..etc.)

That would give us an idea about what to expect. If it was ran Chump it's entire race career there is a lot of unknowns, unlike something that was built for say SE30 or PRO3.

[e30_302]

Forum.chumpcar.com

[trigun7469]

What do you know about the car (history, prep level..etc.)

That would give us an idea about what to expect. If it was ran Chump it's entire race career there is a lot of unknowns, unlike something that was built for say SE30 or PRO3.

Built for Chumpcar ran for 2 years, no rust as it is a Carolina car.
- H&R race springs (32 race hrs)
- Bilstein Sports (32 race hrs)
- Condor rear trailing arm bushings (32 race hrs)
- AKG rear subframe bushings (inverted) (32 race hrs)
- New 63L fuel tank with external surge (2hrs 2min stint) (32 race hrs)
- Ireland Engineering front camber kit (32 race hrs)
- PFC pads on Bimmerworld blanks (16 race hrs)
- Lightweight Interstate battery
- New front control arms and bushings (64 race hrs)
- New calipers and braided brake lines (64 race hrs)
- Bimmerworld plug wire set and coil (64 race hrs)
- Alternator, starter, rad, rad hoses, relays, fuel pressure regulator and fuel lines (64 race hrs)
- 173 ECU
- Lexan side and rear windows
- Front wheel bearings with Bimmerworld studs (64 race hrs)

[e30_302]

Sounds well sorted. I would say if you don't want to take the 20 point hit for the camber plates, just slot the strut tower bolt holes. 20 points is good for one sway bar.

[squidrope]

http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewtopic.php?id=16312

[M-technik-3]

NO mention of Fire Suppression system. Up to date and is the cage still meeting all requirements?

Spares?

[e30_302]

http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/vi...c.php?id=16312

Probably should have linked my own thread. But that would have required google'ing "common e30 problems Lemons." Too much work.

[ForcedFirebird]

If you are running Chump, you might need a lot of bondo for repairs. But I've heard they've gotten better...

In the last 3yrs + (besides the typical doughnuts) we have had ONE incident and it was a single car-meets-tire wall due to driver error. Not sure about other regions, but there's even a 67 Mustang that runs with us down here and doesn't have a scratch on it. I have heard lots of stories about the first year(s), but so far our car had more incidences in Spec than Chump (I did two years of doubly-duty).

Sounds well sorted. I would say if you don't want to take the 20 point hit for the camber plates, just slot the strut tower bolt holes. 20 points is good for one sway bar.

50pts front, 30 rear on sways.

I agree, though, don't need adjustable camber plates, we took the 5pts for fixed vs drilling the flimsy towers, and put in a front strut bar in case of incidences (kept the car square when it met a wall at Daytona).

[e30_302]

Better check your version of the rule book on the sway bar points...

[ForcedFirebird]

Better check your version of the rule book on the sway bar points...

Honest mistake. They reduced them for '17! :)

We just did the NYE 10hr and it was '16 rules, just DL'd 2017.


Now it's 10 each for trans and engine mounts, though. Lats year it was 10 for all.


Thanks for the heads up, we will be at Road Atlanta in a few weeks, and our value went UP :(

[TobyB]

+1 for taking the front calipers off and adding locktite to the 8mm bolts...
that gets ugly with bigger wheels.
Also a check strap/chain/brace to catch the engine if you break an engine mount.

If your wheels stick out far enough, you can bend the struts for front camber.

t

[e30_302]

Now it's 10 each for trans and engine mounts, though. Lats year it was 10 for all.

If I were you I would submit a petition if all you're doing there is upgrading the material. Every single suspension bushing is open, why not engine and trans mounts too?

[ForcedFirebird]

If I were you I would submit a petition if all you're doing there is upgrading the material. Every single suspension bushing is open, why not engine and trans mounts too?

Solid is solid, though. It has always cost points for solid engine/trans mounts (above and beyond suspension when susp bush cost points). We went with OEM for 3yrs until the incident at Daytona last year. An engine mount was compromised and ~8hr later, failed, the fan hit the radiator wiping out our motor in no time flat. We switched to solid mounts (all were $10) at the cost of a rear sway bar. I was at first excited to get the 10pt back for the bar, but since they separated engine/trans mounts, we still can's use the bar.

We were at 10-mounts 5-fixed camber plates 10-strut brace, which didn't leave enough for the 30pt sway on a 475pt car.

Now we will be at 20-mounts 5-camber plates 10-strut brace, that only leaves 15, so the sway reduction didn't help with the increase on mounts.

Maybe a change back to rubber trans mounts is in order...