Let's talk roll bars/ cages for drag racing nhra

[nomansland92]

Does anyone have some experience with nhra rules and what is required? I'm new to the drag racing scene.

My Ix will be done and running soon and I know I need some kind of roll bar in it. the car will be driven 90% on the street but I definitely would like to go to some drag stripes for test and tune nights for some fun.

I'm expecting to be running in the 10s with the car and right on the edge of 135mph. From my understanding I'll need a 5-6 point roll bar with a driver door bar to go 10.0 and under 135. The car should make around 550-600 awhp and I'm running a 7 speed m4 dct trans so its probably going to be fairly quick with decent tires.

I'd like to keep the rear seat to keep a clean look but it won't be used. I really like the look of garalastic roll bar a lot and I could probably just add my own door bar in. Or another option was a true 6 point from https://www.rollcagecomponents.com/b...roll-cage-kit/ . A lot cheaper but would probably take some work to keep the back seat.

My biggest concern is the door bar, I feel like its going to be very annoying and in the way. I know they can be hinged but I'm not sure that's going to be much better, I feel like if I made it completely removable I could just keep it out till I go the track, but I'm not sure if those are legal.

Anyone have experience with 6 point cages on street cars and how annoying they are?

Any input would be appreciated

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[roguetoaster]

Roll cages are almost all classing specific, so know the maximum class you may be in and adhere to their rules as long as they mesh with the lower class you will be in.

There's no avoiding putting down tubes through the rear seat upper if you want a six point cage that connects to the rear unibody structure.

On E30s having proper driver door protection almost always requires bumping the cage in to the door cavity to allow for driver space. So, you may need an extra door for when you want to race, and if you are allowed a bolt in section the driver nascar bars would be a perfect spot as eliminating them occasionally would be awesome.

Don't forget that some classing requires removal of flammable components from the interior, additional scatter shields, and firewall reinforcement.

TLDR, read your rules.

[nomansland92]

Roll cages are almost all classing specific, so know the maximum class you may be in and adhere to their rules as long as they mesh with the lower class you will be in.

There's no avoiding putting down tubes through the rear seat upper if you want a six point cage that connects to the rear unibody structure.

On E30s having proper driver door protection almost always requires bumping the cage in to the door cavity to allow for driver space. So, you may need an extra door for when you want to race, and if you are allowed a bolt in section the driver nascar bars would be a perfect spot as eliminating them occasionally would be awesome.

Don't forget that some classing requires removal of flammable components from the interior, additional scatter shields, and firewall reinforcement.

TLDR, read your rules.

Thanks for the reply! Ya I want rear bars I just like the idea that garalastic offers them with a bend to them to help keep the rear seat.

These are what I want to use for the door bar when it will connect to the main loop and use bolt in plates near my feet so I can talk it out for the street. I know that hinged door bars a legal but I can't find much about complete removable door bars.

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[ForcedFirebird]

Drag racing door bars are much lower than road racing. You can have an angled bar that starts at the door catch height and meets the front of the cage at the floor - so you don't need any fancy hinges as the bar will barely be higher than your seat bottom.

I have built countless cages for e30's, and even the road race designs we do at the shop allow easy egress, and can keep the inner door skins.

Keep in mind when purchasing a cage from an online vendor, most NHRA-legal cages are required to be 1-5/8" .118" wall, whereas road racing is either going to be 1-1/2" .120" wall, or 1-3/4" .090" minimums.

As far as keeping the seat back, rogue is correct., There's no way to attach the rear stays without going through the rear bulkhead. You "could" attach them to the inner wheel wells, but that makes for flex-y cage - best place to attach the rear stays is at the upper rear spring perches. This not only ties the main structure into the uni-body, it will significantly reinforce the chassis from flex.

[nomansland92]

See I'm having a hard time finding the rules, I reading different things. I thought it had to be 1 3/4 x .120 wall for mild steel or 1 3/4 x 83 for cromeolly. Well that's for a 6 point roll bar and not a actuall cage.

If I could make the door bar thats low go that would be perfect but I think it needs to be shoulder height. I'm going to have to throw my seats back in and see how much room is actually available, I'd really don't want to get rid of the door panel.



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[nomansland92]

I threw one of the seats in, and now I realize how tight it actually is. There is no way i would beable to use the door cards or atleast with the armrest. I seen condor makes a ok looking plastic insert panel that would give a lot more room. I think I need to find out what nhra requires on how far forward the door bar needs to go, that could make a big difference with getting in and out of the car.

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[TobyB]

Yup- keeping a bar inside the unibody is not comfy.

Think about your elbow when driving on the street...
making that lower bar removable (if legal) will help a lot.

The lower bar will have to go to the front wheel well.

Go find your local chapter, look up their tech inspector,
and talk to her. She'll tell you what she's looking for,
and since she's the one who'll pitch you out if she doesn't like it,
that's what you'll do!

it's not a democracy,
t

[micke_]

Anyone have experience with 6 point cages on street cars and how annoying they are?

I like my Sparco cage, door bar sits pretty low so no issues with that. The door closes with the pockets on the door cards in place even if there is slight rubbing as you can see on the passenger side in the second pic. (4-door sedan so that's why the main hoop is behind the b-pilar)

[nomansland92]

I think I'm going to get a unwelded roll bar from garagistic then make few changes to it to make it legal for nhra. So hinged door bars are legal if used at the right height/angle so I can unhinge it and unbolt it from the floor so it will be sorta removable with a little work.
It's a bummer anything newer then 2008 can go 10 flat with practically no saftey equipment.

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[dasmanschaft012]

I think I'm going to get a unwelded roll bar from garagistic then make few changes to it to make it legal for nhra.

I wouldn't recommend this. Garagistic's cage is not built to any spec. Find a local cage builder and explain your desires. Start from scratch. I've gotten this advice from multiple cage builders during my shopping around.

[nomansland92]

I wouldn't recommend this. Garagistic's cage is not built to any spec. Find a local cage builder and explain your desires. Start from scratch. I've gotten this advice from multiple cage builders during my shopping around.

Ya I completely agree that there cage is not to any spec, for example it needs to be tig welded and there's is mig welded so I'd have to get it unwelded and weld it my self but it is cromally and it is thick enough to meet the requirements to run 10.00.

I only know of one cage builder in my area and that's Jeff lutz but if any of you heard of him you'll no that out of my budget lol.

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