Sparco harness Bar install
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With or without roll over protection? And then of course you'd need the helmet, etc...
It boggles my mind how people can't comprehend that these things work together...Leave a comment:
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Based on real world test data that I'm sure is out there on 3 point factory belts.....I'd probably take my factory belts in a street collision/street car.Leave a comment:
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Yes... You have a point there...
But wouldn't you agree that the Schroth Rallye harnesses are better than the 3 point OE for street use?Leave a comment:
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The Schroth Rallye belts work pretty well. (street)
The ASM (Anti Submarine) feature is simple and elegant. No worse than the OE belt.
They have been well tested and DOT says they're cool.Leave a comment:
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Was there a reason why 4-point harnesses were banned from Motorsport 18 years ago? Hmmm. Submarining maybe. And Schroth little ASM gizmo won't keep your body from destroying itself under the lapbelt.Last edited by Massive Lee; 12-12-2008, 12:19 PM.Leave a comment:
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Same reason here. I'm not happy enough with my mine to leave it and build off of, so I'm going to remove and start from scratch with a cage as soon as the funds are there.Leave a comment:
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weld-in is obviously better but i left mine bolt-in for now because my car will be getting a full cage sometime in 2009 (probably in the fall), so I'd rather not weld the rollcage in and have to undo it.I don't really think it's any more 'streetable' then my 6 point camlock harness. The anti-sub belts on my 6 point share a latch, it takes about .4 seconds to attach it.
Yeah, not to mention just getting the roll bar in or out is 1+ hour job (if you have someone to help you, if not it could take all damn day).
I would obviously recommend a weld in bar, but since mine isn't even a weld in I can't say too much...Leave a comment:
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I don't really think it's any more 'streetable' then my 6 point camlock harness. The anti-sub belts on my 6 point share a latch, it takes about .4 seconds to attach it.
Yeah, not to mention just getting the roll bar in or out is 1+ hour job (if you have someone to help you, if not it could take all damn day).
I would obviously recommend a weld in bar, but since mine isn't even a weld in I can't say too much...Leave a comment:
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^Yes, you got it with the edit. I was typing it from my iPhone then just decided to get on the computer here.
Yeah, the 4pt would be much more streetable and with a push button release, I keep my sport seat pretty upright so I bet a quality fixed back wouldn't be too uncomfortable for me.
Pulling the entire interior all the time would get old and add unnecessary wear and tear.Leave a comment:
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Ya lost me. You're talking about NOT stripping the interior, then you're talking about installing a roll bar, fixed seat, & harness.
I guess that harness would work, but I don't see why you wouldn't just get a real 5 or 6 point.
EDIT: I think I understand what you're trying to say. You want to keep the roll bar, seat, and harness in the car full time, and want something safe for the street and track? amirite?Last edited by JGood; 12-12-2008, 08:43 AM.Leave a comment:
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I meant with a 4pt bar.
As in 4pt harness, 4pt roll bar and fixed back seats.Leave a comment:
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Are you serious?
Like the guy who died in the past year tracking a cooper with 4 point harnesses and no roll protection.
Generally... Pick None or Pick Three:
Roll bar
Fixed back seats
Harness
People go with fixed back seats and 4 point harnesses for Auto-X and take a risk... but I like walking so no thanks. We've had someone flip a M3 LTW auto-xing... $4!# happensLeave a comment:

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