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Originally posted by yert315 View PostPelican Parts in the South Bay
I use their will-call as often as I need to, simply because I live nearby. But their soonest turn-around time takes a day; I've never had the fortune of picking it up same day, although I've never asked. I do recommend anyway.
+1 for Pelican. They're in Harbor City, just off of Western Ave between Sepulveda and Lomita Blvds. You can take the Sepulveda exit from the 110 fwy.
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Anyone have thoughts on driveshaft u-joint life? I picked up a spare ZF driveshaft with 120k on it, and the u-joints still seem to be pretty smooth. The one in my car currently is from my e36 328, and it has over 250k on it, and the I noticed the rear u-joint that connects to the diff was a little notchy last time inspected it. It there a mileage lifespan or just case-by-case?
I'm wondering if I should get the "new" one rebuilt/balanced (or use it as a core exchange on a rebuilt one) before installing it into the car, or just call it good?
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^if u have the time an money get it rebuilt but i spray it down with some lube whenever i'm under the car
because mine is also sticky/knotchy. Doesn't vibrate though.
you guys go to this gtg?
pretty cool or what?
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Sup fellas. I just recently learned that these old sport seats have the ability to raise and lower (the base) and mine seem to be stuck. I took out the shocks on each side and yup, seized as a mf. Now, I left them out and installed the seats back thinking they’d lower some or all the way and nope, still stuck.
Any ideas or fixes?
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Originally posted by AlonzoS View PostSup fellas. I just recently learned that these old sport seats have the ability to raise and lower (the base) and mine seem to be stuck. I took out the shocks on each side and yup, seized as a mf. Now, I left them out and installed the seats back thinking they’d lower some or all the way and nope, still stuck.
Any ideas or fixes?sigpic
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Originally posted by mtech325 View PostAnyone have thoughts on driveshaft u-joint life? I picked up a spare ZF driveshaft with 120k on it, and the u-joints still seem to be pretty smooth. The one in my car currently is from my e36 328, and it has over 250k on it, and the I noticed the rear u-joint that connects to the diff was a little notchy last time inspected it. It there a mileage lifespan or just case-by-case?
I'm wondering if I should get the "new" one rebuilt/balanced (or use it as a core exchange on a rebuilt one) before installing it into the car, or just call it good?
Since you have the 120k mile one already it's a tough call. You can just change the CSB but be warned that if and when the U joints start to go, they will take out that fresh CSB and you'll be doing the job over again. Who knows when that will be though. I personally, just pay the $200-250 for a completely remanufactured DS with CSB and just install but if you do your own work and don't mind R&R the driveshaft then you can try it and hope for the best. Depends if you plan on keeping the car or could possibly sell in the future."I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj
85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER
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Originally posted by reelizmpro View PostSince you have the 120k mile one already it's a tough call. You can just change the CSB but be warned that if and when the U joints start to go, they will take out that fresh CSB and you'll be doing the job over again. Who knows when that will be though. I personally, just pay the $200-250 for a completely remanufactured DS with CSB and just install but if you do your own work and don't mind R&R the driveshaft then you can try it and hope for the best. Depends if you plan on keeping the car or could possibly sell in the future.
In case anyone is looking for a ZF 5-speed driveshaft, now I have an extra sitting around.
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