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    Originally posted by Mike36 View Post
    Are there any other places like BMA Parts near or around Los Angeles area. BMA is great and all but it's a bit out of the way for me if I absolutely need a part the same day. Any other places that you guys can recommend?


    Pelican Parts in the South Bay

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      Trey, where are you now??
      Simon
      Current Cars:
      -1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle

      Make R3V Great Again -2020

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        Originally posted by yert315 View Post
        Pelican Parts in the South Bay

        I use their will-call as often as I need to, simply because I live nearby. But their soonest turn-around time takes a day; I've never had the fortune of picking it up same day, although I've never asked. I do recommend anyway.


        +1 for Pelican. They're in Harbor City, just off of Western Ave between Sepulveda and Lomita Blvds. You can take the Sepulveda exit from the 110 fwy.

        Currently building a badass coffee table
        Random stuff on insta @kevanromero

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          Anyone know a guy with a clean ass white m3 that has PAC on driver fender?
          has a big ass tach on his dash near the b pillar?

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            Originally posted by QUKBMER View Post
            Sup
            Sup

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              Anyone have thoughts on driveshaft u-joint life? I picked up a spare ZF driveshaft with 120k on it, and the u-joints still seem to be pretty smooth. The one in my car currently is from my e36 328, and it has over 250k on it, and the I noticed the rear u-joint that connects to the diff was a little notchy last time inspected it. It there a mileage lifespan or just case-by-case?

              I'm wondering if I should get the "new" one rebuilt/balanced (or use it as a core exchange on a rebuilt one) before installing it into the car, or just call it good?

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                ^if u have the time an money get it rebuilt but i spray it down with some lube whenever i'm under the car
                because mine is also sticky/knotchy. Doesn't vibrate though.

                you guys go to this gtg?
                pretty cool or what?

                600 Followers, 465 Following, 103 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Shakes N’ Brakes (@shakesnbrakes)

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                  Originally posted by e30trooper View Post
                  Sup

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                    Dont forget about tonight everyone.
                    Attached Files
                    @IRON-E30 aka Edwin:D

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                      Sup fellas. I just recently learned that these old sport seats have the ability to raise and lower (the base) and mine seem to be stuck. I took out the shocks on each side and yup, seized as a mf. Now, I left them out and installed the seats back thinking they’d lower some or all the way and nope, still stuck.

                      Any ideas or fixes?

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                        Originally posted by AlonzoS View Post
                        Sup fellas. I just recently learned that these old sport seats have the ability to raise and lower (the base) and mine seem to be stuck. I took out the shocks on each side and yup, seized as a mf. Now, I left them out and installed the seats back thinking they’d lower some or all the way and nope, still stuck.

                        Any ideas or fixes?
                        Do both seats not lower? You need to sit on the seat, press front handle down and simultaneously shift your body weight down and back or forward (I forgot which way). That front handle only locks that one side, the corresponding side moves freely if that makes sense.
                        sigpic

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                          Bump for this Saturday morning

                          Currently building a badass coffee table
                          Random stuff on insta @kevanromero

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                            Originally posted by mtech325 View Post
                            Anyone have thoughts on driveshaft u-joint life? I picked up a spare ZF driveshaft with 120k on it, and the u-joints still seem to be pretty smooth. The one in my car currently is from my e36 328, and it has over 250k on it, and the I noticed the rear u-joint that connects to the diff was a little notchy last time inspected it. It there a mileage lifespan or just case-by-case?

                            I'm wondering if I should get the "new" one rebuilt/balanced (or use it as a core exchange on a rebuilt one) before installing it into the car, or just call it good?

                            Since you have the 120k mile one already it's a tough call. You can just change the CSB but be warned that if and when the U joints start to go, they will take out that fresh CSB and you'll be doing the job over again. Who knows when that will be though. I personally, just pay the $200-250 for a completely remanufactured DS with CSB and just install but if you do your own work and don't mind R&R the driveshaft then you can try it and hope for the best. Depends if you plan on keeping the car or could possibly sell in the future.
                            "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                            85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                            88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                            89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                            91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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                              who was at the socal vintage drive today? trying to figure out who was driving the black lowered M42 car?
                              Simon
                              Current Cars:
                              -1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle

                              Make R3V Great Again -2020

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                                Originally posted by reelizmpro View Post
                                Since you have the 120k mile one already it's a tough call. You can just change the CSB but be warned that if and when the U joints start to go, they will take out that fresh CSB and you'll be doing the job over again. Who knows when that will be though. I personally, just pay the $200-250 for a completely remanufactured DS with CSB and just install but if you do your own work and don't mind R&R the driveshaft then you can try it and hope for the best. Depends if you plan on keeping the car or could possibly sell in the future.
                                Good point, better to do it right the first time around. I ended up purchasing a rebuilt e36 m3 driveshaft. So it has new u-joints and is balanced. Just need to get an e30 CSB swapped on as they would not sell a "modified" driveshaft, so it came with the e36 one installed. Just need a few more transmission odds and ends and the driveline refresh can finally commence.

                                In case anyone is looking for a ZF 5-speed driveshaft, now I have an extra sitting around.

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