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    Originally posted by mbonanni View Post
    This week has been hectic for me.

    I graduate this week, finishing up financial aid for college, accepted scholarships, and my e30 took a dookie.

    So, I need your guys' expertise. The situation is that my car does not crank. I thought it was the alternator, so I pulled the battery from my grey car (which I started before I pulled and it cranked effortlessly) and put it in my black car to see if it drains. I went to start the car and it won't even crank. Just clicks. All dash lights turn on etc. If I jump the car, or hook up an addition charger/power supply the car will crank.

    Does this sound like a starter motor to you guys? I have an extra, but don't want to do the job before I get some extra opinion.

    Btw, the car has always had a very slow crank and has been iffy in climate changes, after sitting a little, or even if I shut off the car and try to start it back up.
    Here's the deal- As the wires that connect the battery to the vehicles charging system become hotter they INCREASE in resistance. Its a natural occurance in Electrical circuits of any size / gauge. Add to that any corrosion that has developed on the batter terminals and or the connections to the starter and this becomes even more resistant to current flow. Thats why when you run your vehicle and it heats up and you shut it off it may not start. Increase in heat = increase in resistance.

    Grey car has wires that do not have as much resistance within them so current flows more freely. It may even have less corrosion as well which helps current flow. When you take a battery that works well in the Grey car with wires that are in better shape from a current flow standpoint and add it to a car that has wires that are high in resistance and potential corrosion then the battery cannot flow enough current to allow the starter to turn and what you hear is the solenoid that is pushing out the starter shaft but the starter shaft is not turning.

    By jumping the vehicle or adding to the available current as you have (noted in comments you made) the system has at its disposal a greater level of current which allows it to provide enough that it will allow the starter shaft to turn and the solenoid to push the shaft forward and engage the flywheel.

    You essentially overcome the resistance present in the wire(s) and allow enough current to run through those wires to turn the starter shaft.

    Think im wrong? Try this - Add a secondary wire of a large gauge greater than 8 gauge to the circuit so that the current has a secondary parallel path to take and current will choose the path of least resistance and flow through that secondary wire and starter should engage. Or buy an ammeter that measures current and connect it in series with the wires that connect to the battery.
    One side only - Hot will do. Then you will be able to visibly see the current flow and compare / contrast with the grey cars current flow.

    Or , the simple solution is to just change the fricken wires - K? Even some good used ones sound like they would do a better job- Pick and Pull em for the cheapo route...
    Last edited by e30vert; 05-31-2013, 02:52 PM.

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      Anyone Sac local got a working AFM?

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        53k mile M20 for $250. Should I pick it up?
        sigpic

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          Yes.
          IG: @Baye30

          FRONT VALENCE IS ZENDER!!! STOP FILLING MY PM BOX PPL!!!

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            I emailed the guy asking a couple questions. If the engine sounds to be in good shape I'll grab it.
            sigpic

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              hi
              SO MUCH MORE TO DO!!
              IG: ohthejosh

              LEGIT CHECK ME BRUH
              BUYER FEEDBACK THREAD

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                Wazzzzzzaaaaapp

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                  Hola'

                  >>>>Still searching for an Early Driver Side Rear Tail Light Lens<<<<<<<

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                    Howdy

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                      Hiya

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                        Hey guys. So I picked up a really nice m20 turbo, fully rebuilt by Castros with 6k on it, o-ringed block, ARPs top and bottom, wasted spark (524td timing belt cover too), MS2, IE cam, HD rockers, TCD stage 1 clutch...it's running in an e34 currently but the tune isn't 100% perfect. It's overly safe (cruising AFRs are in the 13's, drops to 10's under boost) and I can't really floor it because it goes way too rich at WOT (below 10 when it should ideally be like 11.5). I'm not really worried about physically swapping it into my car, but can any of your guys work with MS to get the tune worked out? I'm willing to pay a reasonable rate, but I can't afford a $500+ dyno tune from a shop (at least that's what I assume prices will be). I'm also not sure whether it'd be better to get it perfect in the e34 and then swap it, or do that after its in my car. Any help?
                        Thanks!
                        The first car I ever rode in was an e30

                        Originally posted by Cabriolet
                        Wish you the best and hope you don't remember anything after 10pm.



                        1992 Mauritiusblau Vert
                        2011 Alpinweiss 335is coupe

                        2002 540i/6 Black/Black
                        2003 GSX-R 750 (RIP)

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                          Originally posted by Vivek View Post
                          Hey guys. So I picked up a really nice m20 turbo, fully rebuilt by Castros with 6k on it, o-ringed block, ARPs top and bottom, wasted spark (524td timing belt cover too), MS2, IE cam, HD rockers, TCD stage 1 clutch...it's running in an e34 currently but the tune isn't 100% perfect. It's overly safe (cruising AFRs are in the 13's, drops to 10's under boost) and I can't really floor it because it goes way too rich at WOT (below 10 when it should ideally be like 11.5). I'm not really worried about physically swapping it into my car, but can any of your guys work with MS to get the tune worked out? I'm willing to pay a reasonable rate, but I can't afford a $500+ dyno tune from a shop (at least that's what I assume prices will be). I'm also not sure whether it'd be better to get it perfect in the e34 and then swap it, or do that after its in my car. Any help?
                          Thanks!
                          -___-

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                            you can afford a nice engine but can't afford to get it tuned?
                            cars beep boop

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                              you can afford a whole turbo'd castro built car.


                              but you cant afford to get a tune done.



                              just use the money from parting out the e34 for the tune.

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                                The engine got sold, I didn't contact the guy fast enough.
                                sigpic

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