Miami FL people?

[monty23psk]

My understanding is if you unplug the battery for a little over 30 minutes, the ECU resets and will learn everything. Might be worth to try.

[Vedubin01]

G,

Switching an AFM is like switching an ECU, the car will need to adapt itself. So it's OK to see some loping idle for the first few miles driving the car.

I just sent payment for one just before I read this. The car was blowing black smoke and I tried to take it around the block. It was everything I could do to make it back. Once I got over 1000k rpm the car ran better than it has in some time. But once I got off it would die. The little sensor was different than the one I had. It has an opening with a thin wire where my old one was a solid tit.

Oh well We will see.


Erick, are you going to be around this weekend?

[Erick]

Oh I dunno about that. That sounds pretty rough for just an AFM that needs to adapt itself... but maybe.

Yeah I'll be in the area... what's up? My bad that I didn't get back to you, but I didn't have any eta parts with me.

[Vedubin01]

I was going to attempt the fan install and the valve adjustment this weekend

[AlpineIS]

Sorry it didn't work out, Gordon. I know that AFM is good...I bought it brand new and it probably has less than 10k miles on it. The reason the one I lent you is not in my car is because I was once having idle issues and used another AFM to troubleshoot and the problem continued....it turned out the spark plug ref sensor had worked its way lose. I looked at the ETK and surely enought the PNs are different, it just may be the nipple that's different though. The black smoke indicates a too rich mixture so you may want to play with the mixture screw to see if it leans out a bit. I probably messed with it when I had the idle problem. Not a guaranteed fix but worth a try.

[Vedubin01]

Ill try and give it a shot this afternoon when I have some free time. Thanks for the advice

whats the method of adjusting the AFM?

[AlpineIS]

If you look at the top of the AFM, there's a circular openning...next to the black cover. Look inside and you'll be able to adjust it with a screwdriver. One way mixes lean and the other rich.

[ForcedFirebird]

Opening a small shop in Pompano on the corner of McNab and Andrew's. 1000 square feet with A/C office. Hopefully I will be getting the lift and start moving in next week sometime :D

Anyone who needs some work done, bring the parts and give me a few bucks to help with the rent/utilities ;)

Also have access to my friend's CNC machines still, and I love to fabricate...

[Vedubin01]

guys tested the ICV and the AFM and they seem to be good. Getting down to the TPS and the Idle module under the glove box.

Anyone have that little green box for testing would be greatly helpful. Going to pick up a new TPS tomorrow.

[AlpineIS]

Another issue that comes to mind is that you may have a vaccuum leak. A fluctutating idle will be present with a leak.

The TPS usually fails due to the accumulation of oil from blow by. Chances are that if you remove it from the TB, oil will leak out of it (my TPS had oil but I drained it and it is still good). With the TB removed there are 2 screws that secure the TPS to the TB. Loosen them just a bit and turn until you hear the click. You will essentially adjust the butterfly by doing this. Hold and tighten the screws. It may be kinda hard to do this on your own.

I don't think a bad TPS will cause a surging idle like you are experiencing. Its either low all the time or high. Basically, the ECU will not know that its at idle or at WOT. If you pull the harness to the TPS, the idle should jump up a bit. Another way to test for a faulty TPS is using an ohmeter. My Bentley was water damaged but it does have the values if you want to do this for verification.

[Vedubin01]

Well I pulled a known working TPS and installed it today. Same thing. Still running super rich and not able to hold a steady idle. I have replaced everything but the ICV and the Idle control module. This is the only thing I can think of it being.

There is no way in hell that a small air leak would cause the car to run super rich as it is. I can ignite the exhaust being so rich.

In search for an E ICV and the control module.

[ForcedFirebird]

Vacuum leak will typically cause lean conditions (high/surging idle).

Are you sure you don't have a stuck injector? You can diagnose it by unplugging one injector at a time and see if there is any changes.

[AlpineIS]

One way to test the ICV is by turning the key to the "on" postion (not starting it) and listening carefully to it. It should make a slight buzzing sound (at least the "i" ICVs do). If you remove the connector you should hear the valve click. If that test passes, reconnect and start the engine. Pull the connector again, the idle should go up. If there is no change then it may be faulty. I once read you shouldn't reconnect the ICV connector if the engine is running. Turn it off first then reconnect.

Other areas to look at...cold start valve...may be stuck open? FPR?

[Under_Pressure]

hello fellow Miami peeps. I'm going to have to make friends with you guys :nohomo: got some issues with my new 318is and some newcastle nice and cold!

[monty23psk]

hello fellow Miami peeps. I'm going to have to make friends with you guys :nohomo: got some issues with my new 318is and some newcastle nice and cold!

What issues?