Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30
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Cirrusly Blue - The Daily Driver E30... now SUPER powered
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Changed the front swaybar links. They were pretty bad, so I'm glad they were done. I didn't get to the rear but I'm sure those need to be done too
The front control arm bushings are busted so I'm trying to decide if the M3 rubber or some poly. I'm trying to avoid major stiffness but I don't think these are the ones that transmit NVH into the cabin. Thoughts?Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020
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Originally posted by 2mAn View PostDamn auto doesn't know what downshifting is. I had it at WOT the whole time lol.
As for FLCAB I went with OEM E36 M3 bushings in new Lemforder lollipops and have been very happy. I almost went with the E30 offset bushings for more caster which also would have been a good choice.
I'm with you, I just wanted an increase in rigidity, but no decrease in comfort and subsequently no increase in NVH.1988 325 Lachs Sedan SOLD
1989 325i Bronzit Beige 2 Door
SOLD
2018 Volkswagen Alltrack SE DSG
Past:1988 325iS Lachs 5 Speed
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Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
The front control arm bushings are busted so I'm trying to decide if the M3 rubber or some poly. I'm trying to avoid major stiffness but I don't think these are the ones that transmit NVH into the cabin. Thoughts?
I just decided to go e36m3 CABs because I read that they're harder solid rubber (not offset) than e30 ones but aren't as harsh as poly. Install coming soon so I'll keep you posted. Expecting them to crisp things up just an extra bit more without being too gnarly as poly can be on rougher roads.
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Originally posted by TFJR View PostI feel your pain. My '88 has an "S" feature that locks out overdrive and seemingly helps hold the gears a little longer.
As for FLCAB I went with OEM E36 M3 bushings in new Lemforder lollipops and have been very happy. I almost went with the E30 offset bushings for more caster which also would have been a good choice.
I'm with you, I just wanted an increase in rigidity, but no decrease in comfort and subsequently no increase in NVH.
Originally posted by DIIRTY-30 View PostI'm down to help prep :)
On a side note for CAB's or motor mounts, been reading more and more about poly-filling gaps. Less NVH than full poly/solid while still retaining semi-OEM. I was thinking about messing around and trying it on a set of motor mounts.Originally posted by E30335i View PostYour cirrusblau looks better than mine!
Originally posted by wworm View PostI just decided to go e36m3 CABs because I read that they're harder solid rubber (not offset) than e30 ones but aren't as harsh as poly. Install coming soon so I'll keep you posted. Expecting them to crisp things up just an extra bit more without being too gnarly as poly can be on rougher roads.Originally posted by AWDBOB View PostHighly recommend M3 offset rubber CABs. I don't think you're going to gain anything from going poly. I've used quite a few sets of these with great luck:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOLID-OFFSET...RXqz54&vxp=mtr
@Daniel, On my first E30, the red 86-ES, I was using all rubber for everything and it rode awesome. What I did on the rear subframe mounts was to fill the voids in with 3M window weld, and it made them solid rubber as well. Its a trick from my VW racing days. I will likely do the same when I get to the rear bushings.Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020
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