collision repair and auto painting

[bmwstephen]

Oliver,

while most shops advocate note to wax cars shortly after painting (approximately one month), why do they seem to contradict themselves when they offer the cut and polish as part of the paint package? Moreover, some shops end up cutting and polishing immedately after the car is baked and cured before the customer picks it up.

Isn't that step no differ than waxing when considering you're going to polish and seal the car up thereby preventing the paint from breathing?

[oliver.r]

Oliver,

while most shops advocate note to wax cars shortly after painting (approximately one month), why do they seem to contradict themselves when they offer the cut and polish as part of the paint package? Moreover, some shops end up cutting and polishing immedately after the car is baked and cured before the customer picks it up.

Isn't that step no differ than waxing when considering you're going to polish and seal the car up thereby preventing the paint from breathing?

very good point.
letting the clear properly cure will give you a better finish with less scratches and a lot shinier, a lot of shops do it almost immidietly because of production time and customers being inpacient.

[10Toes]

Oliver,

while most shops advocate note to wax cars shortly after painting (approximately one month), why do they seem to contradict themselves when they offer the cut and polish as part of the paint package? Moreover, some shops end up cutting and polishing immedately after the car is baked and cured before the customer picks it up.

Isn't that step no differ than waxing when considering you're going to polish and seal the car up thereby preventing the paint from breathing?

Cut and polish is not waxing, they probably don't want you to wax it because it would seal it so that the paint can not off-gas and would not cure properly.

[Vivek]

But polishing and sealing are completely different...?

10hoes beat me to it.

[bmwstephen]

Cut and polish is not waxing, they probably don't want you to wax it because it would seal it so that the paint can not off-gas and would not cure properly.

if you take the cut, polish, and seal package a paint shop offers post painting you still fill in the imperfections with some sort of chemical and adds a thin layer of protection on what would otherwise be exposed paint no?

[bmwstephen]

very good point.
letting the clear properly cure will give you a better finish with less scratches and a lot shinier, a lot of shops do it almost immidietly because of production time and customers being inpacient.

so if my paint job involved a baked finish, how long do you recommend before I go ahead and return for a cut/polish/seal?

[Deathtoll]

The last time I had something painted I didnt wax it afterwards. About two days later I noticed a clump of bird crap on the same area. After I washed it off it left a mark. I sure wish I had waxed it right away.

[oliver.r]

so if my paint job involved a baked finish, how long do you recommend before I go ahead and return for a cut/polish/seal?

wait a good month, from experiance that seems to be the best time.
if you do it too soon it just ends up looking really foggy.
if you wait too long there is more chance that you would have more damage on your paint (rock chips, scratches etc..)

[oliver.r]

The last time I had something painted I didnt wax it afterwards. About two days later I noticed a clump of bird crap on the same area. After I washed it off it left a mark. I sure wish I had waxed it right away.

waxing it would'nt have really done anything. just make sure it is cleaned off as soon as you see it

[bmwstephen]

this might have already been answered but what is urethane sealer and at which step in the process is it used?

I've heard that term get thrown around and I thought it was the clear coat application.

[oliver.r]

this might have already been answered but what is urethane sealer and at which step in the process is it used?

I've heard that term get thrown around and I thought it was the clear coat application.

im pretty sure you asked that but a sealer goes on before the color and after the filler primer
does not go on the surface of the car

[bmwstephen]

Hi Oliver,

A couple of new ones for you:

1) Do you have any experience with PPG's clear coat lines: JC7200 vs DC4010?

2) My buddy plans to respray his e36 that has like 3 or 4 layers of paint but the body is straight and never been in an accident. His shop plans to do heavy sanding, primer, and block but of course the costs adds up with the latter 2 services. I thought he was getting hosed because I don't understand why they can't just heavy sand back to the factory primer and block that instead. In fact, it seems counter productive because what if they are just sanding just 2 layers of paint off but still priming over some layer of paint? Feels unnecessary and still have issues down the line. Is the shop just trying to gouge him?

[oliver.r]

Hi Oliver,

A couple of new ones for you:

1) Do you have any experience with PPG's clear coat lines: JC7200 vs DC4010?

2) My buddy plans to respray his e36 that has like 3 or 4 layers of paint but the body is straight and never been in an accident. His shop plans to do heavy sanding, primer, and block but of course the costs adds up with the latter 2 services. I thought he was getting hosed because I don't understand why they can't just heavy sand back to the factory primer and block that instead. In fact, it seems counter productive because what if they are just sanding just 2 layers of paint off but still priming over some layer of paint? Feels unnecessary and still have issues down the line. Is the shop just trying to gouge him?

1- i have never used the ppg clear but i have nothing against it, other painters i have talked to love it. i have no personal experiance with it.
2- the way they are doing it is correct. you cant block the original primer because it is a slealer. the primer the will be applying is a filler primer witch is thick and can be blocked. there is nothing wrong with this

[bmwstephen]

1- i have never used the ppg clear but i have nothing against it, other painters i have talked to love it. i have no personal experiance with it.
2- the way they are doing it is correct. you cant block the original primer because it is a slealer. the primer the will be applying is a filler primer witch is thick and can be blocked. there is nothing wrong with this

Provided the body is straight and never been dented etc... what is the problem with simply sanding it back down to the factory primer and painting it from there. I only foresee the use of primer if say for a panel with dent or trying to blend.

[bmwstephen]

Oliver,

I noticed particularly with our cars, the edges on panels such as the hood and trunk are a weak point and very susceptible to paint chipping away after a respray. If you run your hand under the hood's or trunk's edges, you can feel the bumps, nicks, and chips.
it looks as if the paint has issues conforming to the corners and edges. While it is easy to identify this as bad prep work, what method can be done to prevent this? Should the hood and trunk be removed and sprayed separately?