Yes take them off, and when spraying a car i always hit all edges first that way you dont over spray on something you just painted
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collision repair and auto painting
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Originally posted by bmwstephen View PostProvided the body is straight and never been dented etc... what is the problem with simply sanding it back down to the factory primer and painting it from there. I only foresee the use of primer if say for a panel with dent or trying to blend.
there is also nothing wrong with just sanding it down, sealer and base clear, you will just not have a "perfect" flat surface
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Originally posted by oliver.r View Postthats assuming that the car is in perfect shape, small waves and dings will show if not primered and blocked.
there is also nothing wrong with just sanding it down, sealer and base clear, you will just not have a "perfect" flat surface
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Originally posted by oliver.r View Postahhh, vlads good old jobs haha.
first pic is just gnarly orange peel.
second pic is exactly what i mean by waves, it gets unevenly sanded and dips are created on the surface, without filler primer that is not repairable
1) after a car is heavy sanded away, what would the cost to do an entire primer and blocking of an entire e30
2) lets say if a car shop is charging to remove one or two dents off the car, if they are going to primer fill and block the entire car anyway, are they simply just double charging the customer?
3) if there is a ding or dent deep enough and the primer fills in the spot, isn't it the paint on top of it susceptible when exposed to a lot of vibration?
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Originally posted by bmwstephen View Postyikes, certainly would prefer orange peel to waves. A couple more questions about the process.
1) after a car is heavy sanded away, what would the cost to do an entire primer and blocking of an entire e30
2) lets say if a car shop is charging to remove one or two dents off the car, if they are going to primer fill and block the entire car anyway, are they simply just double charging the customer?
3) if there is a ding or dent deep enough and the primer fills in the spot, isn't it the paint on top of it susceptible when exposed to a lot of vibration?
2-fixing 1 or 2 dents does not mean the whole car is getting fill primered, only were the body work is geting done it is getting fill primer.
a car will not be blocked unless it is specified clearly, dont assume it will be done.
3- dont exactly understand your question sorry
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Originally posted by oliver.r View Post1- cost will depend on shop obviously, i'd probably chagre$800-1000 to do it.
2-fixing 1 or 2 dents does not mean the whole car is getting fill primered, only were the body work is geting done it is getting fill primer.
a car will not be blocked unless it is specified clearly, dont assume it will be done.
3- dont exactly understand your question sorry
2) so to specific, my buddy's e36 initially went in to get a respray and to get some dings removed (I assume they just apply heavy filler on the dent before painting). A few days later, he got a call from the shop and now they wanted to primer and block the entire car so that's an additional 800-1000. If the primer and block will take care of the dents anyway, I don't see why he should be charge for dent removal
3) I guess i dont understand how non-PDR dent removal is done but I thought you simply fill the dent up with some bondo or filler to its on level. If that is the case, wouldn't that spot be a weak point in the paint job?
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Originally posted by FLG View PostYou don't just fill the dent. You remove as much of the dent as possible and you want to use minimal a minimal amount of filler. There will be no issues when done properly.
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Originally posted by bmwstephen View Post1) that price is if you do the entire car correct? so blocking is the part of process where you level out the primer correct? If so, then for my buddies car, I think they only need to primer certain panels that show up uneven on his current paint job?
2) so to specific, my buddy's e36 initially went in to get a respray and to get some dings removed (I assume they just apply heavy filler on the dent before painting). A few days later, he got a call from the shop and now they wanted to primer and block the entire car so that's an additional 800-1000. If the primer and block will take care of the dents anyway, I don't see why he should be charge for dent removal
3) I guess i dont understand how non-PDR dent removal is done but I thought you simply fill the dent up with some bondo or filler to its on level. If that is the case, wouldn't that spot be a weak point in the paint job?
2- you have to find out why they want to fill primer the whole thing. if his whole paint is peeling like crazy and cracked then it has to be stripped and fill primered and blocked to prevent a vlad looking job.
-when it comes to repairing a dent you re-shape the panel as much as possible and only use filler to even out minor inperfections on the surface not to actually fill the dent
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Originally posted by bmwstephen View Posthow do you normally remove dents? I know you dislike PDR
and stud gun/ slide hammer when needed
light glaze to smooth out any surface inperfections were the dent was repaired.
i dont have any problem with a proper pdr.
as long as they dont fuck other stuff up in the process
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Oliver,
With regard to the sealer step on a car after primer and blocking, what options do you offer? I did not realize there are different options depending on price. Why does it matter since paint is going above it anyway?
Are urethane sealers different between single stage and dual stage jobs?
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Originally posted by bmwstephen View PostOliver,
With regard to the sealer step on a car after primer and blocking, what options do you offer? I did not realize there are different options depending on price. Why does it matter since paint is going above it anyway?
Are urethane sealers different between single stage and dual stage jobs?
we do have 2 diferent types of sealers that we use. a dupont nason line sealer we use for single stage and a dupont cromax pro sealer we use for high end paint jobs. in all honesty i do not know what the difference is. the cromax pro is more expensive and i am sure it is better in some way but i do not know how it is a upgrade on the nason sealer ( thats not to say there isnt one)
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