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Originally posted by LivingLegend06 View PostI just sent payment without reading, my bad. I also missed putting the coupon code in.
I fail at life.
And to everyone else who sent a payment Mc Hammered has first dibs on the few remaining units i have. If i don't receive a payment by tomorrow morning i'll process your payments and send them out to you guys.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
www.gecoils.com
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Originally posted by einstein57 View PostI was looking through some stuff and i found a set that i set to the side. The springs for the key blades was not as strong as the other sets. They work fine but it kind of bugged me. I was not planning holding on to it as a spare in case one came back with a faulty circuit board or something. Anywho there yours if you want them.
And to everyone else who sent a payment Mc Hammered has first dibs on the few remaining units i have. If i don't receive a payment by tomorrow morning i'll process your payments and send them out to you guys.
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I suck at this kind of stuff.. I was thinking of installing it my trunk. But should I install in the cabin?
Does anyone have detailed photo instructions? Im super lame at this, and im sure its going to take me 3 hours, so I want to be prepared.
jou ma se poes in 'n fishpaste jar.
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Originally posted by einstein57 View PostYour golden. Its your drivers door key assembly that's messed up and not your central locking. There is a metal arm on the back of the lock cylinder for the drivers door that always cracks and breaks. If you ever want to fix it that's most likely what you'll need to replace. Although you don't have to.
All but my front passenger door unlock with central locking. I replaced the electric mechanism last year and it worked for awhile, but now has failed again. I have to reach over and manually pull up on the lock. Is the fix above the same thing I need to do?
**Thanks for the ultra-quick shipping--arrived today. Professionally packaged as well.
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Whenever you replace a 20 year old part with another 20 year old part that it will fail very quickly. If the mechanicals are binding for some reason it could prematurely wear the actuators. Another common problem is the weather stripping on the door is dry rotted and water gets in to the actuator and corrodes it. New weather stripping is about $12.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
www.gecoils.com
My euro 316 project Transaction Feedback
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Originally posted by thebutcher37 View PostI suck at this kind of stuff.. I was thinking of installing it my trunk. But should I install in the cabin?
Does anyone have detailed photo instructions? Im super lame at this, and im sure its going to take me 3 hours, so I want to be prepared.
Just know that in the area under the steering wheel you're only splicing the red wire for power (pretty obvious - its hooked into the steering column), and the light wires which are up under the light switch. You don't need to touch any of the other hundreds of wires sitting there right in your face.
The other two wires for the locking system are tucked way down to the left of your clutch pedal, behind the plastic kick panel (the piece that hides your speaker). Once you get your head and arms down there you shouldn't have a problem finding them. Mine were wrapped up in black texture tape, but once I cut away some of that I could spot them easily.
Also, remember to disconnect your battery before you start. Safety first, and read through the thread, there are tips and pics from other users as well.
Good luck.1988 325ix
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Originally posted by thebutcher37 View PostI suck at this kind of stuff.. I was thinking of installing it my trunk. But should I install in the cabin?
Does anyone have detailed photo instructions? Im super lame at this, and im sure its going to take me 3 hours, so I want to be prepared.
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Originally posted by Isostar13 View PostThe install guide on page 6 is pretty easy to follow (written by FLG). This is for the front driver's side kick panel install. Check out my pics on page 9, I believe, for a detailed look inside. Once you find the right wires it really is a breeze. The hardest and most intimidating part for me was simply getting under there and finding the right wires. I also didn't take off the kick panel until I realized I had to... yeah kind of a newb myself, but I figured it out.
Just know that in the area under the steering wheel you're only splicing the red wire for power (pretty obvious - its hooked into the steering column), and the light wires which are up under the light switch. You don't need to touch any of the other hundreds of wires sitting there right in your face.
The other two wires for the locking system are tucked way down to the left of your clutch pedal, behind the plastic kick panel (the piece that hides your speaker). Once you get your head and arms down there you shouldn't have a problem finding them. Mine were wrapped up in black texture tape, but once I cut away some of that I could spot them easily.
Also, remember to disconnect your battery before you start. Safety first, and read through the thread, there are tips and pics from other users as well.
Good luck.Originally posted by blackhawkimpact View PostPersonally, I would do it in the cabin. That's what how I wired my previous alarm and that's how I'm going to wire this one.
jou ma se poes in 'n fishpaste jar.
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Originally posted by thebutcher37 View PostThanks guys... I already read it, I will read it again.. I think it confused me more because I read them planning on going into the trunk. So how many wires from the black box go to how many wires in the car/under the dash. If I want to have my lights flash on lock and unlock?
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