Massive - 280mm x 22mm BBK - $660usd

[Massive Lee]

On an e30 M3, the Superlite caliper will not fit the 11.75" x 1.25" and the strut's ears without major surgery. As most e30M3 owners will track their car like mad men, I don't recommend the Dynalite/Dynapro calipers for best pedal feedback and it will not bring anything better than the stock calipers don't have. I will let VAC/UUC use the Dynalites on their own kit.

Nonetheless, I still use the Dynalite caliper on the e30 Street kit as it allows better clearance and low cost. e30 drivers who want better performance will pick the Sport and Race kits.

Also, the M3s stock brakes are pretty good for most of us. Use HT10s and you'll be very happy.

[2002maniac]

my setup (as pictured toward the beginning of the thread) uses Dynalite calipers. Pad selection has not been an issue.

Great setup btw! I highly recommend it!

[z31maniac]

How much does the cost of the kit increase it someone wanted to go with a Dynalite?

[Massive Lee]

How much does the cost of the kit increase it someone wanted to go with a Dynalite?

Same price. Both calipers sell around $140-$155 on the net. If I don't have a decent pad selection with the Dynapro, then I will use the Dynalite with bridge bolt.

I am also offering the caliper adapters alone so that if people want to buy used Dynalie off eBay and cheap rotors, then they will have the opportunity to save a few $. The hardest part is the mounts. First, they must be designed. Then making a set with a hacksaw, pressdrill, files and taps will probably take a whole afternoon. While results will be... well. Homegrown. So, $160usd is not a bad price for mounts only.

Lee

[z31maniac]

If they are the same price, what are the differences between them? IE, why use the Dynapro instead of the Dynalite and vice versa.

[Massive Lee]

If they are the same price, what are the differences between them? IE, why use the Dynapro instead of the Dynalite and vice versa.

They don't hold the pad the same way. That's about it. For more details, please go on Wilwood's website, they have a complete description of their products.


Lee

[dlmrun2002]

damn I had to put a cheap tie rod on the left side in a pinch.. Would that give me problems on fitment?. I think it was a moog part.. could be wrong..

dog M NY

[Massive Lee]

damn I had to put a cheap tie rod on the left side in a pinch.. Would that give me problems on fitment?. I think it was a moog part.. could be wrong..

dog M NY

Only time will tell.

The Race kit had a slight contact situation with one brand of aftermarket tie rod last year. Very unusual. The Corrado rotors are a bit more inward than stock, which is why I suspect the same situation MAY occure. No sure it will.

Lee

[dlmrun2002]

Works with most 15 inch? I have a bbs...not sure of model type but it's got a pretty big lip. Here is a pix of rim if that means anything. I think I want kit minus my one tie rod issue..
dlm ny

[Massive Lee]

Works with most 15 inch? I have a bbs...not sure of model type but it's got a pretty big lip.

Have you used the measures on the first page? Have you tried the profile in pdf form? Wheels with wide lips, often have flat face backs. You need 23.8mm + 3mm from the hub to the back of the spokes.

Very difficult to know what wheel will wor or not, just looing at their face .

[Massive Lee]

After checking the availibility of brake pads, I have decided to go with the good old Dynalite, for which most usual pad supplier have compounds for that caliper. if the rear kit is produced, it will use the same caliper, but with different piston sizing obviously.

Basically here are the pistons sizings I recommend when using same size rotors at the front and back.

1.38" fr + 1.00" rr => 1.9:1 front-to-rear hydraulic ratio
1.62" fr + 1.12" rr => 2.08:1 front-to-rear hydraulic ratio
1.75" fr + 1.25" rr => 1.96:1 front-to-rear hydraulic ratio

Smaller ratio means more rear bias
Bigger ration means more front bias

The stiffer the suspension, the more rear bias is needed as less weight transfer will occure.

[Fidhle007]

What's the likelyhood of a rear kit being produced by spring and what sort of price point would you be aiming for? I'd much rather have a f/r kit with larger pistons (to match my 25mm MC) so if the rear kit is a reality that would determine my piston size when this GB closes.

[Massive Lee]

What's the likelyhood of a rear kit being produced by spring and what sort of price point would you be aiming for? I'd much rather have a f/r kit with larger pistons (to match my 25mm MC) so if the rear kit is a reality that would determine my piston size when this GB closes.

Likelihood of producing the rear kit depends on sales of the front kit and availibility of a decent rear rotor. It takes a lot of time and money to present a kit. I have a lead on a possible rear 280mm rear rotor. But not sure it will fit. It may take two, four or even six months before a rear kit is made, if it is ever produced. Also, let's remember that for people insisting on front and rear kits, it already exists in the form of the Sport and Race kits which already have the rear portion with handbrake. Sure it costs money. But if money is indeed an object, then I suggest to concentrate on the front-only 280mm Street kit.

[Fidhle007]

Fair enough. :-) But just so we're clear, a 1.38/1" setup will still work with a 25mm MC without too much issue, right? I also have an adjustable proportioning valve installed on my rear line so I could do some tweaking with that I suppose...

[Massive Lee]

The 25.4mm MC will work. It will require 35% more effort to push the pedal compared to a 21.8mm MC. If you find the current effort bareable, it will stay the same with the 1.38"-1.00" pistons, with even less travel as you won't have the usual play inherent in sliding calipers... Using grippy pads is also one way to overcome a brake pedal that is very hard.