M5X Swap fuel pump questions

[hreverman]

Im pretty sure my fuel pump is going bad. I’m in the midst of building an M50 to swap in to the E30 so I’m not going to buy another stock M20 fuel pump. I haven’t seen a solid recommendation on what people are running on their swaps. I plan on doing a turbo m50 pushing about 350-400whp. I was thinking of a 255LPH, would it be alright to run one of those on the M20 for a couple months until I’m ready to swap?

sorry I’m new to car building & still learning a lot. I’ve only worked on & built old honda motorcycles so this is all new to me. appreciate all the help

[jjc034]

Im pretty sure my fuel pump is going bad. I’m in the midst of building an M50 to swap in to the E30 so I’m not going to buy another stock M20 fuel pump. I haven’t seen a solid recommendation on what people are running on their swaps. I plan on doing a turbo m50 pushing about 350-400whp. I was thinking of a 255LPH, would it be alright to run one of those on the M20 for a couple months until I’m ready to swap? sorry I’m new to car building & still learning a lot. I’ve only worked on & built old honda motorcycles so this is all new to me. appreciate all the help

Walbro 450 is so cheap and drop in, why not just do that for headroom? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[ForcedFirebird]

I would stay away from Walbro. It's not even a brand anymore, just clones. I have had so many fail, I now use Aeromotive drop in or Bosch 044 in-line in client cars

The stock pump works fine for a swap car, plenty of headroom, even.

[Northern]

TI/Walbro 255 is fine for your goal, just buy from somewhere reputable because as John said, it's like 90% fakes out there. I think Bosch 044 are a similar story though, so be careful regardless.

I bought one last year that was genuine, as well as genuine Bosch EV14s from Quantum Fuel Systems, (who also have the ebay store "highflowfuel" so it was easy for me to get shipped here.)

[nando]

IMO I'd just get a stock one unless you're going to build a 600hp turbo later on or something (which most people never do). Aftermarket pumps are often loud, and the anti-drain back valves are no good or they don't have them at all, making for much longer startup times after the car has been sitting.

BTW, if anyone hasn't tried it - the Bosch in-tank version of the 044 (045 I think?) doesn't work in the E30, at least not without cutting a bigger hole in the tank to fit it inside, lol. I wonder if I still have that, I should sell it if I do..

[jjc034]

I would stay away from Walbro. It's not even a brand anymore, just clones. I have had so many fail, I now use Aeromotive drop in or Bosch 044 in-line in client cars The stock pump works fine for a swap car, plenty of headroom, even.

What? That is 100% not true lol. Just buy from a reputable vendor and not ebay. I'm running 450 and putting down 646whp/528wtq no issues. Stock sized gates barricade lines. Highly recommend 450. It's cheap and will give you headroom to grow Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[ForcedFirebird]

What? That is 100% not true lol. Just buy from a reputable vendor and not ebay. I'm running 450 and putting down 646whp/528wtq no issues. Stock sized gates barricade lines. Highly recommend 450. It's cheap and will give you headroom to grow Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I have been boosting/swapping e30's and various other cars on a professional level for almost 15yr, and even came from the days of pirating in-line pumps from e250 vans because of the flow rate. I can say for certain I have had multiple "Walbro" pumps fail within a short period of time. Did some of them last (?), sure, but when the failure rate was getting obnoxious I switched to the Aeromotive 340. The 340 is an in-tank replacement, the company is right here in US of A where you can talk to a real person and have a real warranty AND the clincher is, they are the same price as the "Walbro", which BTW authentic units don't even have that name on them anymore, they should say "TI Automotive" which when they changed names was about the last time I used one....

https://www.driven2automotive.com/bl...ti-automotive/

Aeromotive 340 (255lph) currently $130: https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/34...-offset-inlet/

Genuine TI, right from the mfgr ($122): https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-5...-pump-kit.html

...and yes Northern there's a bunch of Bosch fakes too (shown here by Rama)...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfucXmHgcSA

We use Worlpac here at work, and all of their 044's have been genuine from them - we have them in the endurance race cars, so fuel pump reliability is utmost important. We went through 190gal of fuel at Daytona last week, nothing worse than changing a pump in the hot pits during a green flag.

[jjc034]

I have been boosting/swapping e30's and various other cars on a professional level for almost 15yr, and even came from the days of pirating in-line pumps from e250 vans because of the flow rate. I can say for certain I have had multiple "Walbro" pumps fail within a short period of time. Did some of them last (?), sure, but when the failure rate was getting obnoxious I switched to the Aeromotive 340. The 340 is an in-tank replacement, the company is right here in US of A where you can talk to a real person and have a real warranty AND the clincher is, they are the same price as the "Walbro", which BTW authentic units don't even have that name on them anymore, they should say "TI Automotive" which when they changed names was about the last time I used one.... https://www.driven2automotive.com/bl...ti-automotive/ Aeromotive 340 (255lph) currently $130: https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/34...-offset-inlet/ Genuine TI, right from the mfgr ($122): https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-5...-pump-kit.html ...and yes Northern there's a bunch of Bosch fakes too (shown here by Rama)... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfucXmHgcSA We use Worlpac here at work, and all of their 044's have been genuine from them - we have them in the endurance race cars, so fuel pump reliability is utmost important. We went through 190gal of fuel at Daytona last week, nothing worse than changing a pump in the hot pits during a green flag.

I have been boosting/swapping e30's and various other cars on a professional level for almost 15yr, and even came from the days of pirating in-line pumps from e250 vans because of the flow rate. I can say for certain I have had multiple "Walbro" pumps fail within a short period of time. Did some of them last (?), sure, but when the failure rate was getting obnoxious I switched to the Aeromotive 340. The 340 is an in-tank replacement, the company is right here in US of A where you can talk to a real person and have a real warranty AND the clincher is, they are the same price as the "Walbro", which BTW authentic units don't even have that name on them anymore, they should say "TI Automotive" which when they changed names was about the last time I used one.... https://www.driven2automotive.com/bl...ti-automotive/ Aeromotive 340 (255lph) currently $130: https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/34...-offset-inlet/ Genuine TI, right from the mfgr ($122): https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-5...-pump-kit.html ...and yes Northern there's a bunch of Bosch fakes too (shown here by Rama)... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfucXmHgcSA We use Worlpac here at work, and all of their 044's have been genuine from them - we have them in the endurance race cars, so fuel pump reliability is utmost important. We went through 190gal of fuel at Daytona last week, nothing worse than changing a pump in the hot pits during a green flag.

Well I'm sorry to hear you got burned for the past 15yrs. All of my friends with boosted M52/S52s also use Walbro with no issue. Easy to tune, not loud, good flow rates. Glad to hear there are multiple options out there, even if you're not running Nascar with your E30. Pick your poison Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[ForcedFirebird]

Well I'm sorry to hear you got burned for the past 15yrs. All of my friends with boosted M52/S52s also use Walbro with no issue. Easy to tune, not loud, good flow rates. Glad to hear there are multiple options out there, even if you're not running Nascar with your E30. Pick your poison Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Live and learn! I certainly don't like doing jobs a second time, specially when I have to cover labor and materials under warranty. Not only are you having to do the job for free, you have to pay for a second part, AND you lose the revenue you could have made on another job during the warranty. Sure for those that tinker in our garages on the weekend cruisers, it's not a big deal to swap a pump

It wasn't the whole time, Walbro was a popular choice, but just before they changed names, the fakes were getting so abundant they were making their way into the "authentic" markets. Just as Rama said in the 044 video, the clones are getting more and more realistic to the point they are difficult to discern from a real one. Apparently the weight is a dead giveaway, cheap ones are made with inferior materials.

....and it's not NASCAR, we run the IMSA/Rolex 24hr course in the e30's. ;)

[hoveringuy]

I recently replaced my pump to accommodate 5 bar N52, went with the Douchewerks DW200 over the Walbro because it has a reputation for being quieter and because it has a built-in check valve.

I'm happy with the pump, it is quiet, but the check valve was for shit and I needed a separate external one anyway...

[NC325iC]

You can run these fuel pumps on an m20. The FPR will take care of diverting the extra flow and/or pressure back through the return.

[Northern]

How long does the car sit before you have problems with the check valve?
My silver car still has a TRE 340 (afaik a knockoff walbro 255) in the silver car (since 2015), and it must have an internal check valve as it doesn't crank for more than a second before starting.

[hoveringuy]

How long does the car sit before you have problems with the check valve?
My silver car still has a TRE 340 (afaik a knockoff walbro 255) in the silver car (since 2015), and it must have an internal check valve as it doesn't crank for more than a second before starting.

With the new pump, it was most pronounced during hot soak, like stopping at the store. It would crank for 4 seconds because it had to charge the entire fuel line.

With the check valve, it still bleeds pressure and will go to zero psi after 20 minutes, but will start instantly because the fuel lines remain charged.