Fuel pump relay firing by itself? If its not and you have no spark then its the crank sensor. Stick the proper OBD1 6cyl sensor in there and see what happens. Ill put 5$ on it.
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No spark for the same reason you have no fuel pump, the ECU either isn't getting the CPS signal or is in an EWS mode of some sort.
A long shot, but the main relay has dual contacts, don't know if they are wired in parallel or not. I know you said the idle valve is buzzing, wonder if the relays are in the right slots?Comment
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Originally posted by RoysneonOriginally posted by MarkDComment
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I was talking to the OP lol. And i also know dom. Ninja edit. OBD2 cars have male cam sensors.
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Fuel pump is not firing. The only time it runs is when I jump the relay. Motor came with a lightweight underdrive pulley. This isn't an option right now.
I've been spending alot of time trying to research and understand the different versions of immobilizers (drive away protection, and EWS I).
The relays came installed on the harness as it was removed from the E36. I verified the wire colors as well.
It looks like you have the OBD2 camshaft sensor. I replaced mine with an OBD1 camshaft sensor because it has a male end and didn't want to modify the harness. My crankshaft sensor looks like yours (plug end wise), just in a different spot.
For the past few days, I was running the S52 Hall sensor with a Hall to VR conversion circuit from Hoveringuy. I put the M44 sensor back on yesterday, because I pulled the manifold to verify continuity throughout the harness.
Most of the knick knack single items for this project I got at the dealer or Pelican Parts. (Spending alot of time verifying on RealOEM.com)1990 332is - work in progress.Comment
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Wasn't talking to you! hahaha:) BTW Justin is on the parts counter not Dom. He is the one that got me all of my parts on this swap. Dom was definetly there for the install though! and a couple times afterwards....
That picture shows a male end on the Crank sensor BTW and a female end on the Cam. vice versa for the harness side.
Good luck bro! I know it has to be frustrating.
Originally posted by RoysneonOriginally posted by MarkDComment
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1990 332is - work in progress.Comment
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IT STARTED!
It was a go for broke kind of night in the garage. I need a new ignition switch. The tabs that hold the switch onto the key cylinder were apparently broken before I got the car. It was zipped tied on and had moved itself away with all this no start business. So, we had to take the wheel off and solve that. Btw, my official first start was done with a screw driver and not a key. :(
I played around with my test light. Just trying to figure out what was going on and what not. The I put everything back together and even set up some wires to try and read the crank sensor with a multimeter. Alot of what I was reading was pointing me to the C104 connection and the whole Code Immobilizer circuit. So my wife and I played around with that junction with the test light and some things were happening that didn't make sense. She insisted on trying to start it while the plug was disconnected. I thought nothing would happen, but the starter ran when she turned the key. This gave us a second wind and knew we could figure it out. I jumped the two terminals on that plug and all of the sudden, the fuel pump was priming intermittently. Low and behold, I made sure the terminals were properly jumped and the motor fired!!
So, now I have easy button up work to do and I can get this thing over to an exhaust shop for a mid pipe and get on the road!
I really appreciate all the help from everyone!
PS. I still don't completely understand why this fixed my issues. The diagrams in the ETM make it make sense, but with my test light, I was getting voltage in places that I thought I shouldn't with it disconnected.1990 332is - work in progress.Comment
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awesome!!!!! I bet you are super relieved!'87 325ic, powered by S50.Comment
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Eventually I plan on going back and tracing this down. I'd like the project to have all the features work the way they are supposed to (A/C, Cruise, code immobilizer, etc), but that may have to wait a while. At any rate, this is exactly what I did and will rock this rigged fix for the time being, because it works.
1990 332is - work in progress.Comment
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Awesome!
So this was in the stock e30 circuitry that relates to how the OBC immobilizes the car when you have a security code enabled on the OBC?
Also, kudos to your wife for helping you.Comment
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Thats how I understand it. I would definitely like to look into this more. I didn't even trace any wires to the back of the OBC or any associated relays. Code Immobilizer seems to be a very simple system, more of a knick knack than actual security.
I'll pass on the kudos, thanks! She is a great asset to have in the garage especially when my engineering degree convinces me that something is correct when its may not be. Maybe the car heard her when she said that she was ready to put the whole project on eBay, and it got scared. Ha!1990 332is - work in progress.Comment
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Good job man. Nice to have the missus there to help out too.
'89 Alpine S52 with goodiesComment
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