Official Electric Fan wiring thread!
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I run the 80/88 3 pole sensor, and the fan kicks on low speed at about 2/3 up the gauge...seems a little off? I run the 80C T-stat and my temp while driving holds between 1/3 and 1/2 marks. If I sit in traffic, the temp creeps up above half and, as stated above, the fan doesn't start up until the upper 2/3 area. Is that what you guys with the 80/88 Are experiencing?
Seems wrong to me....maybe they accidentally gave me a 91/99 switch? Can anyone vouch for the approximate temp at the 2/3 mark? My fan is an aftermarket SPAL and the wiring is good to go, just not working in the expected regime.Comment
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after the 3 pin connector for the fan. The brown wire is ground. The Black wire is low speed (if you want AC you need to hook this up) and the Red wire is High speed (what the temp switch will kick on).
So Brown (from the car) goes to the ground wire on the fan while red and black wire(from the car) go to the power wire on the fan. Only one wire sends energy at a time. Never both.
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That is stated in the OP but
after the 3 pin connector for the fan. The brown wire is ground. The Black wire is low speed (if you want AC you need to hook this up) and the Red wire is High speed (what the temp switch will kick on).
So Brown (from the car) goes to the ground wire on the fan while red and black wire(from the car) go to the power wire on the fan. Only one wire sends energy at a time. Never both.Comment
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My experience
I have finally completed this!
I went a somewhat different route than the instructions.
At first I had wired my FAN ground to the brown wire. My fan POWER to the black wire. Then for my 2 prong 82C thermo switch I connected blackbrown wire to the black green wire and attached that to one prong. Then I connected the black wire to the 2nd prong.
When i did this the fan would turn on whenever I had turned the key on. My dads friend who is an electrician came home and helped us out. We did a lot of testing of all the wires and finally realized that the method in the pictures Im posting works.
This is the green/black wire attached to one male prong and the black/brown wire attached to the other male prong. I realized that when u have the BK/Gree and BK/BRO together it gives the fan juice no matter what so I decided to plug them in that way so when the switch closes it gives me power.
Here the brown and red wires are staggered and taped together so that they do not cause any problems.
The yellow is my ground from the fan and is attached to my hood.
The black and red are the power the fan receives.Comment
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Relays. Broken
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Yup. Seen it happen a few times. Change out the high or low speed relays and it won't do that anymore
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Slightly confused on what all I am tapping into, and running to the fan. My setup is on an m30 swapped car using a 318ti 3 prong switch, but the wiring should be pretty much the same. Am I tapping into the thermo switch wiring? If so, where are those wires going to/from? Or am I just hooking up to the factory fan plug as stated by the first part of the original post?
Thanks!Comment
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factory fan plug if youre putting an aftermarket fan in there.
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I'm having a bit of a problem..
My fan is wired up exactly how it is shown below.
If I touch the two terminal together, the fan turns on. However, the fan will never turn on when the car is running...Even up to the 3/4 mark.
The fan switch is an 82 degree unit, and I have an 80 degree thermostat.'91 "318is" slick top M50 turbo
'97 Dodge 3500 12v Cummins
'12 Mini Cooper S
'89 318i Chump Car ProjectComment
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reviving this thread.
I'm looking to wire my spal to my a/c fan hook up so it will run automatically when the coolant reaches 82* and also use my a/c switch as an override.
I will snap a few pics of what plugs I have in my car as it is swapped now with a 2jz
body harness is an 86e
mtech1/2jzgte/r154/275tire
function>formComment
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Should be the same as anything else as its part of the body harness not the engine harness.
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OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno ThreadComment
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