Clutch issues- Totally STUMPED- !!FIXED 4/9

[Jonny Cash]

Here's the scenario, Ill try to make it as short as possible.

Ive installed an s52/zf trans into my e30.

The parts ive used are:

e30 clutch master- NEW
E36 m3 slave cyl- NEW
ZF trans
OEM sachs e36 m3 clutch kit- TOB included- NEW
Dual mass stock flywheel- resurfaced
Clutch fork ok, clip for pivot intact

I bled the slave outside of the trans, everything went back together, and seemed ok. I got a decently stiff pedal, but when tried to put the car into gear it wouldnt go, as if the clutch wasnt fully disengaged.

I removed the clutch stop completley for a little more travel. It got slightly better as if i was disengaging it a tad bit more, but still barely going into gear

- Completley stumped out of desperation, I extended the slave cyl rod about a 1/2" thinking id get a bit more pedal up top and disengage a bit more. It seemed to make the pedal feel a TAD better, but still no disengagment.

I noticed the short amount of driving I did ( putting it into gear before starting ) the cluth will engage very close to the floor, like less than an inch. When trying to force it into gear while idling, the car tends to inch foward.

Im totally at a loss, any advice would be greatly appreciated

[gobuffs]

There was another thread on here before like this. My suggestion is the same as I will suggest to you (although it wasn't the answer)...are you sure the throwout bearing isn't installed 90 degrees off? If it is it doesn't push the throwout bearing far enough out.

[Jonny Cash]

Wait, no. Thats impossible. The only way you could install it is 180deg off (upsidedown) , and even if so, its universal side to side. Both ears are the same.

[gobuffs]

If you say so. BTDT.

[Jonny Cash]

The ears of the TOB install east to west,

so are you saying you can actually install the TOB ears north/south? Totally disregard the old ear markings on the fork? Have a pic of a TOB installed?

[Mr.SWISS]

If you say so. BTDT.

it's slotted, and so is the pivot shaft. If you somehow shoved it on there forcefully, blatantly ignoring the slotted provision in both parts.

You is a mutha fuckin dumbass.


Having the exact same setup my advise is going to be to go back to the slave. unfortunately it is impossible to install the ZF slave in a ZF in an e30. It's just too damn tight.

What I did was installed the slave and line on the trans when I stabbed it in as an assembly. There is no bleeding it, just pump the pedal by hand until it builds pressure, I never cracked the bleed screw once. If you're like me you went with the best braking setup, an E32 double chamber booster with a 25mm master already on it, and thus have a 2002tii remote res.

You can see bubbles come up through the res as you pump and should feel the pedal have resistance after about 10 minutes of pumping.

My clutch does engage pretty close to the floor, so much I never installed a clutch stop, doesn't need one!

[Jonny Cash]

well in that case let me go double check i have the correct slave because mine goes in and out no problem. ive bled it both connected and disconnected to the trans.

[328ijunkie]

Bleed. and bleed again. You should have firm firm pressure the second you touch the pedal.

[Wanganstyle]

unfortunately it is impossible to install the ZF slave in a ZF in an e30. It's just too damn tight

really? I just fit in the ZF slave on my ZF6MT yesterday with trans in the car.

it comes in/out just need to have a stainless flexible line with the right length etc-

[FredK]

I am have a ZF320 and a ZF slave. Fits fine.

[cabin]

I am have a ZF320 and a ZF slave. Fits fine.

Same here. Its not fun removing and replacing the slave but its doable.

[ForcedFirebird]

The slave can come out, we have done it 3 times on this car alone and have worked on countless swaps at our shop.

Today, I bled the slave out of the trans (3rd time) using a c-clamp to keep the rod from poking out. There is absolutely NO air in the lines, but the clutch is still not fully disengaging and the car creeps forward when trying to go in gear.

It feels as though there's not enough travel in the slave to let the clutch fully release.

The worst part is this is a complete swap from a 97 m3 that was running/driving fine, not our typical issues of mismatched parts. Fresh clutch, TOB, master, slave and pressure plate, all part numbers are correct, it's simply not working properly for some odd reason.

[Jonny Cash]

Yes the slave is extremely easy to remove and replace, and fits in there fine..:???:

The only thing I may of left out is the flywheel.. I did have the dual mass resurfaced. I wasnt told the exact amount of material removed, but according to the machinist it was a safe amount.

Theres a tad bit of build-up on the new CMC, so I had another new one overnighted just incase it was faulty.. You never know. If this doesent work i guess the trans will have to come down again, and Ill spec the flywheel...

Sucks because I have a track event this weekend, it wouldve been awesome to get the car out there.

[Danny]

I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the non-M slave has more travel, or that you need to mix and match clutch hydraulics a bit to get it to work correctly. I'll see if I can dig anything up.

[e30 gangsta]

This might sound crazy, but is the clutch in backwards? we had an e30 where the clutch was put in backwards and the clutch wouldn't disengage.