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Use the Stock Booster - Modify the Clevis

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    Use the Stock Booster - Modify the Clevis

    I prefer to keep the brake feel of the E30 the way it came from the factory. You may want to do the same. I found that the:
    • e21 booster sucks, and has too little boost.
    • 325ix/E32 booster has plenty of boost, but needs a new master, and a remote reservoir, and the master requires re-bending the hard lines, and even then it interferes with the intake elbow if you use the spacer bracket. If you choose not to use the spacer bracket, it's more work.
    • Porsche boosters seem easiest, but many are thin, and most require rethreading the rod. Not impossible, but costs a little money and takes some work.
    • Stock booster totally fits, costs nothing, works like stock (because it is) and only takes a slight mod to the clevis (using a second clevis) for factory-like connection and safety.


    Slotting the booster, without modification didn't work for me. since the shaft is angled, there is too much side load on the pin/bracket, and the pedal won't return after you depress it. this modified clevis solves that, and is easy.

    Read on to see how to modify the clevis so that it connects to the pedal in stock-like fashion, is safe, uses the stock pin, and doesn't bind. Be ready - this post says "Clevis" so many times that if you are even a LITTLE BIT high, you will not be able to stop laughing. It's a funny word. Clevis. Clehhh-visssss... Okay. Let's begin.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Drill new holes in the FW EXACTLY .5 inches to the driver's side. Don't slot it. Measure and drill.

    Drill the holes for both bottom studs, and the driver's side top stud. You don't have to drill for the other top stud, as it will interfere with the accelerator pedal bracket assembly. Three nuts will hole the booster on. If you don't like that, you can stop here and choose one of the other boosters above.

    With the booster removed, unscrew the clevis from the end of the booster shaft.

    Go to the junkyard and get a second clevis. That's right. You will need two. (Yeah... You probably should have done this first. Hey, don't look at me - you are the clown that didn't read the directions before you started.) I found one from an E32. It worked fine, once I cut it to length.

    Cut the second clevis as shown below. The goal is to cut it so that it will mate up with the other clevis with the correct amount of room for the pedal bracket in between. You basically want to cut exactly one "tang" of the clevis off. Measure, mark and cut straight! (I used a hacksaw, and it took 45 seconds. Man up and get busy. Or use an angle grinder... But BE CAREFUL. This cut needs to be precise.)




    You have to cut carefully, because you are making this:



    Clamp that up, and be sure that the pin slides easily through the holes in the "extended" section. Then weld it. Takes 30 seconds. And you will see, I make the worlds worst looking welds. Fully functional, fully ugly.

    Note: you may wanna tape over the threaded section, to keep slag and bits from falling in and botching the threads.

    Now paint it, since your welding likely ruined some of the fancy plating that kept it from rusting for 25 years.

    You have now made a "W" out of 2 clevises. If you did it right, the W will fit perfectly - one "U" will thread on to the booster rod, the other U will go around the pedal bracket, and the pin will lock it in place just like stock. (Okay, sure, maybe it is an "M." Fine. Make your own thread if you like "M." Who asked you!? Smartass.)

    The bonus? If you do it this way, should your weld ever fail (which it won't), the pin is STILL through one half of the original clevis, and you have the proverbial "belt and suspenders" approach to making sure your car stops!

    Installed. Note toothpaste-y, horrible looking welds:



    Another angle (upside down). Still ugly. Still works great:



    To make this EVEN EASIER:

    Install the clevis when you have the booster out of the car. It's not impossible when the booster is installed, but it is much harder.

    Take the driver's seat out. Unless you are a tiny monkey, there is no room to work under the pedals. I took the driver's seat out, and laid on my back, with my head beneath the dash, and my feet on the back seat. Comfy.

    All in all, if you can even KIND OF weld, this costs 2 bucks, and takes probably 2 hours from end to end, including removal and installation of the booster. it's safe, it's simple, it's cheap, and it keeps your stock brake feel.

    That's all. Long-ass post. Hope this is useful.
    Current:
    1991 325i Sedan - S50 Swap
    1988 325i Cabrio

    Past:
    1991 M3
    1991 318is
    1985 325e

    #2
    Nice work man, nice write up too! I did the 944 and it works great but certainly is not as nice as the stock. I may do this next time the motors out.

    Comment


      #3
      Nicely done. I would probably go this route if I had to do it again instead of messing with the e32 booster

      Comment


        #4
        Nice! any reason not to cut of the unused 'leg' next to the bracket ?
        My CA legal M60 swap

        The happening in our garage

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by 36brua View Post
          Nice! any reason not to cut of the unused 'leg' next to the bracket ?
          Not really - though for explanatory purposes, it seemed to show what I had done more easily.

          Or, I got lazy and didn't cut it off.

          You decide!
          Current:
          1991 325i Sedan - S50 Swap
          1988 325i Cabrio

          Past:
          1991 M3
          1991 318is
          1985 325e

          Comment


            #6
            Nice! I hatee my e21 booster with a passion. I want to get that tiny week thing out of there asap.. Only thing I'm iffy about is the FW drilling, if you screw up then it'll be fun to correct :/. Any pics of the holes you drilled?

            I assume you did all of this post-swap? Was it hard to work around the engine?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by cmybimmer View Post
              Nice! I hatee my e21 booster with a passion. I want to get that tiny week thing out of there asap.. Only thing I'm iffy about is the FW drilling, if you screw up then it'll be fun to correct :/. Any pics of the holes you drilled?

              I assume you did all of this post-swap? Was it hard to work around the engine?
              Don't think I have any pics of the holes... I did that work with the M20 out, and before the S50 went in...

              It's not hard - you just have to get a straight line through the center of the existing holes, and then go over .5 inches from them and go to town.

              Watch that you don't poke TOO far through the FW though - there is important stuff on the other side. Heh.
              Current:
              1991 325i Sedan - S50 Swap
              1988 325i Cabrio

              Past:
              1991 M3
              1991 318is
              1985 325e

              Comment


                #8
                Hmm I might try this out later in the summer. I not only cut the shaft from my old m20 booster, but also got rid of it.. So i'll need another one. Should be a fun little project lol

                Comment


                  #9
                  So now that pile of E30 boosters I have might be worth something?

                  If you guys had a 944 booster, already modded (as I do) and piles of stock crap AND a welder..which would you do?

                  Closing SOON!
                  "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                  Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                  Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I'm running the 944 and am glad I did it.

                    Are you experiencing any rubbing or binding? It looks like it is sandwiched pretty good between the pedal and the column(?).....
                    Last edited by giantkeeper; 05-29-2012, 07:40 AM.
                    Originally posted by blunttech
                    Always Always go for the reach around if there is an option

                    Comment


                      #11
                      My way works just fine thank you






                      ;)



                      Great idea!



                      Oh and thats on my personal car btw lol

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                      Comment


                        #12
                        :???:

                        quote=328ijunkie;3190917]My way works just fine thank you






                        ;)



                        Great idea!



                        Oh and thats on my personal car btw lol[/quote]

                        Comment


                          #13
                          bahaha
                          Originally posted by priapism
                          My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
                          Originally posted by shameson
                          Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by giantkeeper View Post
                            I'm running the 944 and am glad I did it.

                            Are you experiencing any rubbing or binding? It looks like it is sandwiched pretty good between the pedal and the column(?).....
                            It's super close - but not rubbing or binding in any way I can experience.

                            In fact, one of the reasons I kept the extra "leg" was because it extends pas the pedal arm on all sides - leaving no sharp edges to possibly scrape or interfere with pedal travel in any way.
                            Current:
                            1991 325i Sedan - S50 Swap
                            1988 325i Cabrio

                            Past:
                            1991 M3
                            1991 318is
                            1985 325e

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Damn. Threw my stock booster away and replaced with feeble e21 booster that sucks.

                              Thanks for the write up to help me replace it with one that actually stops the car.

                              Comment

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