my 24v build, slightly different than the norm. Now with dyno numbers!

[2mAn]

decided to do this since there isnt much more I can do before I move

exhaust manifolds painted by 2mAn

high temp paint. they are baking in the oven as we speak lol

[2mAn]

Are you going OBD1? That harness breakdown is an OBD1 harness...

from the first post of this thread

..... The idea is that the motor will appear like a M50 Vanos from an E34. ....

-M50 Vanos Wiring Harness from a E34
-Red Label 413 DME with a TMS chip for a M50 with S50 cams

California rules make it a LOT more work than its worth to do an OBD2 swap, so I am converting the motor to OBD1. I found later in the build that the motor had already been converted to OBD1 specs so some of the smaller items I needed to do were already done. I want this swap to be BAR'd, so I will be passing it off as a OBD1 Vanos M50 car.

[Mr.SWISS]

Are you going OBD1? That harness breakdown is an OBD1 harness...

[Roysneon]

Here, this is for whoever drew that diagram.

[2mAn]

I guess if there is nothing to argue about, nobody really cares. regardless, I will keep posting so maybe this will help someone else down the road...

anyways, I had a night off from working on the engine (its about 30 minutes from my place) and I came across this great diagram and used it to finish labeling the E34 M50 Vanos harness.



Im not 100% a few of the 3 wire plugs are correct since there was no colors to reference, but I used my logic and finished it up. I think my realistic goal for this car is to try and get the motor in the car and then let Kevin finish it up for me. It will save me a good chunk of change and make his life (relatively) easier

[2mAn]

ok so I spent the last two days working on the engine. yesterday I spent drilling and timesert-ing the block, then today my goal was to get the head and oil pan on so it looked like a long block, more or less...

my timesert setup.

timeserts1 by 2mAn

timeserts2 by 2mAn

the mess of metal when I was done drilling

pile-o-metal by 2mAn

and then I got cracking on the motor today. unfortunately it was one thing after another, but I kept at it. first the two dowel pins were wrong and a trip to BMW Bellevue only provided me with one of the two. decided to shift ends and work on getting the oil pump on and oil pan on. oil pump didnt line up right away, so I expanded the third hole and got it on.

oil pump issue by 2mAn

then the e34 oil pan wouldnt fit because of the girdles the aluminum 24v block has, so I had to bust out the grinder and remove the windage tray or whatever its called. I think once this is up and running Im going to get a E36 pan modified to fit, but for now Im using what I have.

once that was finally out of the way, I flipped ends and brainstormed on how I can get away with the one dowel pin. talked to someone else and he had a great idea. the head bolts have a larger tolerance than the tiny 8mm torx bolts on the timing case side of things, so once those were in and everything was double checked I was good to go!!
.
.
.
.
except when I opened the Victor Reinz headbolt box there was only TEN headbolts in there.
I needed some motivation so I threw the intake manifold on so it would look somewhat complete.

stuck again by 2mAn

Im stressing though because Im moving 1200 miles south in a week and I dont know if the E30 is coming with me.

Im trying to decide what to do in the different possible scenarios there is.
#1 engine somewhat built, but not installed
#2 engine assembled and not installed
#3 engine assembled and installed

I really dont want to pay thousands of dollars for a shop to finish the swap, Id rather spend the thousands on a beater to drive around on in So-Cal and take my time finishing it, but I also just want it done. I dont really want a shop to do it because I feel like it will take too long and will cost too much. Also, it would probably mean flying back up to Seattle just to drive it back down. That part I dont mind so much...

OK, Im exhausted, time for bed

[2mAn]

heres how I spent my Friday night. I've bought a round C101 using another thread providing the correct part number. sadly, my car has the rectangular C101 so I attempted to track it down using diagrams and ordered what looked like the rectangular C101, but it wasnt correct

c101labeled by 2mAn

I decided at least for now to just use the adapter harness that was made for the M20 swap. I will figure out the rest later. Who knows, I just need to stay busy. So I kept going and labelled the wires that connect to the C101. I am sure I need more, but for now I know where these go.

c101andx20labeled by 2mAn

I also made a big order with Kevin (KD Motorsports) and VAC. Head gasket kit, oil filter kit, water pump, low temp thermostat, Samco Intake elbow, new exhaust studs & bolts, and more all ordered. My goal for tuesday is to have the head torqued down on the block, because thats probably as far as its going to get here in Seattle. Then I'll have to drag it down to So-Cal and either pay Castros to finish it or try and finish it in my garage. We will see what I end up doing. For now I am going to keep chipping away.

[mitchlevy7]

my e30 has the alu block m52 with s52 cams. very similar to yours. drives awesome and
was noticably faster and better then my iron block m52. you will enjoy it.

[wazzu70]

You are in good hands with Kevin!

The aluminum block is the only way to go if you care about handling IMO. The people who hate on the blocks usually have no idea what they are talking about and their reasons are unfounded.

I switched from an M20 to an M42 in my car and the difference in handling is extremely noticeable on the track. If I go back to a 6 it will be aluminum without a doubt.

[Coyote_ar]

Yeah the weight of alu blocks, specially in cars looking for agility and not uber power, is the way to go.

I got a M52TUB28 in my car, not running yet, but its in already :)

curb weight should be under the original weight (AC is gone + alu block + interior striped), and nice torque/power.

[2mAn]

Not all 24v blocks have those reinforcements.

Is the KD motorsports shop you are mentioning Mr. Doyle? I don't know what he calls his shop...but the initials are correct :)

thats the man. He was going to put this motor in his E30 M3, but he decided to just go with a S52 and Ive wanted something like this for a while so we made a deal. Im happy with how everythings turned out except for the slow progress, but I know at the end of it all, I will have an amazing setup. Final curb weight should be around 2350 with a full tank and a complete interior.

[wazzu70]

I saw those and thought it was just something that the 24v motors have. I think you can see it in some of the pics of the bottom end

Not all 24v blocks have those reinforcements.

Is the KD motorsports shop you are mentioning Mr. Doyle? I don't know what he calls his shop...but the initials are correct :)

[Mr.SWISS]

No actually thats a regular alu M52. same block as the Euro M52s.

Ahh I see, The rare 97 Z3 2.8 block.

[2mAn]

Truth.

I hate when people spread bogus info on the aluminum blocks. Most negativity is based on if the blocks were exactly the same with one being aluminum and one being iron. This is not the case. The aluminum blocks have a lot more reinforcement webbing than the iron blocks. They also have the tie-ins from the mains to the outer edge of the block. These act like a main girdle to reinforce the bottom end.

I saw those and thought it was just something that the 24v motors have. I think you can see it in some of the pics of the bottom end

[wazzu70]

No actually thats a regular alu M52. same block as the Euro M52s.
You cant tell its not a M52TU/M54, because the head is the same of regular M52s, and not the reverse flow from the otherones.

References to M54, became irrelevant when he decided to stay at 2.8L.

Oh, and BTW, the alu block is not crappy at all. You just need to run the proper thermostat. When BMW started using alu blocks, they also chose to raise the operating temperature of the engines, to improve emissions. This makes the engines more prone to overheating and warping. And even then, its the head and not the block that gets most of the damage. Aluminium has a better thermal conductivity, so it stays cooler easier than iron blocks. It just need the coolant at a proper temp. Change that thermostat from the original 105c, to 85c, and you wont have temp issues again.

The only real weak point in the alu blocks, its the threads for the head bolts. Studs there is a must.

Even the issue with the nikasil liners can be solved by using steel liners like the later M52TU or M54 (allthough in this case since its from a Z3, it should have the alusil liners so that should be fine).

Truth.

I hate when people spread bogus info on the aluminum blocks. Most negativity is based on if the blocks were exactly the same with one being aluminum and one being iron. This is not the case. The aluminum blocks have a lot more reinforcement webbing than the iron blocks. They also have the tie-ins from the mains to the outer edge of the block. These act like a main girdle to reinforce the bottom end.