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m52 power loss at full throttle

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    #16
    part number of crank sensor?

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      #17
      Not sure what the number is but I'll check. And I popped off my valve cover and my timing is off So hopefully this will fix a few issues
      If you're not going to do it right, please don't take it out on your car!

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        #18
        I'm almost done retiming the motor and I'm going to get the vanos doctor kit to reseal the vanos. anything else I should check into while it's opened up?
        If you're not going to do it right, please don't take it out on your car!

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          #19
          Originally posted by e-dirtym52 View Post
          I'm going to get the vanos doctor kit to reseal the vanos.
          Save your money - buy the Biesan kit and DIY.
          Originally posted by kronus
          would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

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            #20
            Well its retimed and has a new oxy sensor and spark plugs. Cleaned the fuel system and put sea foam through the intake. Added some fresh gas. Still does the same damn thing. Only throws a purge vlave code that I already have capped off. Time to get new can and crank sensors? That's the only thing left that I can think. Yet its not throwing a code for either one.
            If you're not going to do it right, please don't take it out on your car!

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              #21
              I've had some MAF cars in the past and trying to rev it out but
              making 0 power probably means a bad MAF.

              I know your car is custom so It can be anything but perhaps clean
              it with maf cleaner and see if that helps.

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                #22
                I've doused it down before with maf cleaner and when I unplug it it will run real bad. The throttle response is also pretty slow as well if that changes anything
                If you're not going to do it right, please don't take it out on your car!

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                  #23
                  not to thread jack here, but i might be having the same problem. does it just straight up cut out at high rpms, or bog down and kindof poop out?


                  i have no idea what i am doing with my life

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                    #24
                    Yea that's exactly what's happening. Quarter to half throttle it's fine but if I try to get on it at all it falls completely flat.
                    If you're not going to do it right, please don't take it out on your car!

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                      #25
                      like when you think it should be hitting rev limiter it cuts out, or before?


                      i have no idea what i am doing with my life

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                        #26
                        Take readings from the TPS. See if the WOT switch is working.

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                          #27
                          Mines not really an rpm kind of issue. Its just mainly wot that's not working. I thought maybe my speed sensor on my diff just shit out.

                          Which switch is wot? That would just be a new throttle body sensor if it went bad?

                          And just recently my tach quit working all together but so has my windows, blower motor, and sunroof but I don't think that's related to this issue. That's more of an unloader relay thing
                          If you're not going to do it right, please don't take it out on your car!

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                            #28
                            wot is activated by TPS? so its in the sensor. correct me if im wrong? like squidmaster said check the TPS. im not really here for advise since im in the same boat. but together we can figure this out. haha


                            i have no idea what i am doing with my life

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                              #29
                              OBD2 e36 ECUs get VSS (speed sensor) from the cluster for some reason. But I see you have the OB1 m52. I'm not too sure how that wiring is done, you'll have to look into that more, but that could also be your problem.

                              The TPS can be tested by using a multimeter between the signal (red/white wire usually) and the ground (black). Move the throttle throughout the range while looking at the readings. Should go about between 0 and 5v. If anything is off there, it will throw off the WOT switch in the ECU (anything above 86% throttle usually)

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                                #30
                                My vss is through my c101/x20 because I'm a late model e30 and that's hooked up correct.

                                Do you need the engine running to test the wot switch or can the car just be on?
                                If you're not going to do it right, please don't take it out on your car!

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