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What gear do you dyno your swap in?

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    #16
    Originally posted by JCarp90 View Post
    S52
    OBD1
    OBDII manifolds
    2" exhaust
    TRM chip
    S2.93
    ZF320
    3rd gear
    Is that a single 2" exhaust, if so that is probably not helping you.

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      #17
      Originally posted by 10Toes View Post
      Is that a single 2" exhaust, if so that is probably not helping you.
      Yes, I know. It's on the menu for this winter if the car doesn't sell. I hate to think about letting it go, but something else has popped up locally that I'd love to jump on.

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        #18
        Originally posted by klodkrawler05 View Post
        Well obviously somethings not working right at this shops dyno.......these are the numbers graph I got.....

        282whp/248wtq


        I dyno'd in 4th which is 1:1 on my G260 trans........as far as I know I don't have cams.

        anybody want to wager a guess why I'm so far off the numbers others have gotten?

        At the end of the plot it dips down to more realistic numbers. I hope you didn't pay money for that.

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          #19
          Originally posted by nando View Post
          I was going to say - I've dyno'd in 3rd, 4th, and 5th and the difference between the 3 curves was well within the margin of error.

          I prefer 3rd because my car doesn't have the power to spin up the rollers very quickly in 4th, meaning I don't have to beat up the car so much by staying at high-RPM for an extended period of time until I hit the redline.
          People want close to 1:1 for resolution. Torque numbers might change a bit, but not enough to worry about.
          john@m20guru.com
          Links:
          Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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            #20
            ^that. 5th is sometimes more ideal for that but you run into most dyno operators dont want their rollers spinning 150+ (depending on your gearing)

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              #21
              Originally posted by nando View Post
              I was going to say - I've dyno'd in 3rd, 4th, and 5th and the difference between the 3 curves was well within the margin of error.

              I prefer 3rd because my car doesn't have the power to spin up the rollers very quickly in 4th, meaning I don't have to beat up the car so much by staying at high-RPM for an extended period of time until I hit the redline.
              and it is not like dynoing in 1:1 produces a more meaningful number. the numbers from doing a dyno run in isolation doesn't tell much at all regardless....its the shape of the curves, AFR etc that matter not absolute magnitudes. when you start doing mods as long as you can consistently get numbers thats fine as you can compare with decent reliability to see what has changed. this all seems to be lost among people. they all want compare size of their.....
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                #22
                Originally posted by digger View Post
                and it is not like dynoing in 1:1 produces a more meaningful number. the numbers from doing a dyno run in isolation doesn't tell much at all regardless....its the shape of the curves, AFR etc that matter not absolute magnitudes. when you start doing mods as long as you can consistently get numbers thats fine as you can compare with decent reliability to see what has changed. this all seems to be lost among people. they all want compare size of their.....
                Glad someone else gets it! I was trying to explain this to some thick headed friends of mine yesterday.
                -Brad
                My E30: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...50#post3916850

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