Run out of options on this no start situation (solved)

[Sea Aych]

Hows your C101 wiring?

I did the adapter for it

I'd wonder about your windows not working (that would be the unloader relay not working correctly, which could be tied to the starter). does the fuel pump run when you crank it?

Yeah I trust the c101 is fine (e36 harness, M50nv). The windows/hvac are tied to the 30h terminal on the starter, but I had the same starter in my M20 and everything worked fine. The windows worked when jumped at the relay. but not when I swap out relays, so i suspect it's the starter, or all my relay are bunk, which is unlikely.

Fuel pump works when jumped at the relay, but i can't hear it when cranking. Got power to the relay after the main relay clicks, which means the relay must be dead. Ordered a new one - no biggie.

[328ijunkie]

Engine Ground in good condition? You should be able to short the black/green going to the starter to ground and windows/blower will work.

[emmanuel.dlc]

connect both small wires on the starter to the bottom terminal, this will get your accesories working again.

[328ijunkie]

That will cause a fire.

[nando]

lol

ground shorted straight to the battery! weeee!!

[peterz]

Fuel pump works when jumped at the relay, but i can't hear it when cranking. Got power to the relay after the main relay clicks, which means the relay must be dead. Ordered a new one - no biggie.

About a month ago I had the same problem with my nv swap. Cps was my issue.

[m3boost]

So what is the issue? when you say its not starting, is the engine turning over(cranking)?..If not, check the chassis ground..eventhough you physically check it and see it there, they do go bad.. use an ohm meter and check resistance between the chassis and the engine..Should be close to zero ohms..If you're not sure how to do that, get a wire or jumper cables....if using jumper cables, just use say the red(positive side only). hook one side to a nut/bolt of the shock tower and the other side to the metal ring by the vanos unit.. now try and start it.

[emmanuel.dlc]

that happens when you don't read the full thread and give bad pointers, my bad !

[Sea Aych]

Crank sensor just arrived - will update later today

edit: Update: Old CPS won't come out. it's almost like it's welded to the bracket....even pb blaster made no difference. I guess i'll drain the rad and take the hoses out for better access tomorrow and just hammer at it some more

[Sea Aych]

UPDATE:
CPS was a HUUUUUGE Bitch to get out - took me 3 days, drilling, PB blaster, and smashing out the remains with a chisel.
Installed the new one, and still no start. Same issue as before.

Could it just be grounds on the harness somewhere? Totally stumped now.

[GDA]

Can you describe in more details the start sequence of events...

such as...

1) turn key to accessory .... hear main relay and then fuel pump engage and prime
2) fuel pump runs for 2 or so seconds
3) turn key and engine turns over

etc etc

Any codes before or after the new CPS?

Question - have you ever experienced even a faint bit of firing or backfiring? On my Euro S50 even after sitting close to 10 years on the first turn of the key with the fuel pump fuse reinserted, we got one or two cylinders to fire. How do you have the coil packs grounded through to the chassis?

[Sea Aych]

Can you describe in more details the start sequence of events...

such as...

1) turn key to accessory .... hear main relay and then fuel pump engage and prime
2) fuel pump runs for 2 or so seconds
3) turn key and engine turns over

etc etc

Any codes before or after the new CPS?

Question - have you ever experienced even a faint bit of firing or backfiring? On my Euro S50 even after sitting close to 10 years on the first turn of the key with the fuel pump fuse reinserted, we got one or two cylinders to fire. How do you have the coil packs grounded through to the chassis?

To answer your questions first:
No Codes before or after
Coil packs are grounded as stock, with the short leads to the valve cover. nothing was removed.

1) i turn the key, main relay clicks, yup, then the car cranks and cranks strong, but no start.
2) how loud is the fuel pump priming? I can jump it and it pumps loud, but i'm not sure i can hear it priming, and definitely not for two seconds... what would that mean?
3) Last, i'm not sure if it sounds like it wants to fire or not. Sounds close, but not sure if it's a faint bit of firing or anything...

Thanks for the help man!

[GDA]

Hmm, on my S50B30 swap with a swap harness done by Andrew my new fuel pump engages and you can hear it run for a full 2 seconds while seated or outside the car. Its a very low brrrrrr sound.

Have you swapped in another fuel pump relay? Have you checked residual fuel pressure in the line after cranking?

[Sea Aych]

Hmm, on my S50B30 swap with a swap harness done by Andrew my new fuel pump engages and you can hear it run for a full 2 seconds while seated or outside the car. Its a very low brrrrrr sound.

Have you swapped in another fuel pump relay? Have you checked residual fuel pressure in the line after cranking?

Lots of residual pressure last time I checked - will check again tomorrow

I ordered another relay, but they sent me a 5 pin one instead so i've gotta search around for another in the meantime.
Are any interchangeable with other bmw models (e30, etc.) ?
A good relay makes it prime I assume?

[GDA]

Also, do you smell fuel after cranking? We sure smelled it on mine after just four or five cranks where it was only just firing on a couple cylinders. It took close to 20 start attempts to get mine to finally run on 5 cylinders... that is the one in my thread with the video that I posted.

I am suspect you are not getting (or enough) fuel yet.

Open headers still? Wet at the header pipe exit from all these attempts at starting?