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well shiite. So there isnt a "proper solution" (had to use a custom line also).
Maybe i can just do something to lenghthen the distance from the shaft to the clutch pedal.
I keep meaning to re-visit the clutch, but never quite get around to it. I'm currently busy fitting A/C to the car which is keeping me occupied at the moment.
It's a shame there is no adjustment on the master cylinder push rod length. I can push the pedal down a good 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch before you feel any hydraulic resistance. If I could get rid of the slack in the system (and it's not air), it would be a great improvement.
well then maybe what Kyle is talking about would help. Moving the connection point would make the movement more like 1:1 shortenting the distance the pedal moves compared to how it affects the MC. With a longer rod or a spacer that should put it in a more pleseant location.
Also is the master cylinder bottoming out or just the pedal? I.e if I used a spacer would I gain travel so I dont have to worry about grinding gears.
Before you all get mad, I have searched and searched, and have stacks of material I have printed out, but could someone point me to a parts list for a M50 swap that not only has the exact part they used, but one that also incudes other years, cars , etc that can also be used? Also, everyone talks so badly about the Project Orca CD, from what I have found it seems to be the most complete guide,. What is wrong with th it? is it really not worth buying? Thank you -Graham
If you have quick access to R3v while doing the swap or if any questions arrise, save your hundred dollars, it is good for anyone that does not know what components make an engine work, but they do not even provide a simple Pin Chart for the c-101 wiring.
Orca is ok, it has many pictures, but when it comes to wiring they kind leave you in the dark.
I hope to have my write done by tonight and I will include a large parts list, since i have most all of the reciepts.
I also have an even more complicated parts list since i went with a swap that actually requires a bit less fabrication but more of an OEM parts mix. With a slight brake upgrade.
Im going to take as many closeup pics of interesting parts of it as possible and you can add those to your writeup Kyle. I can also add the differences the changes made in the brakes.
The rest should apply since all I have is basically an M50B30 with cams.
Also if we want to make it an internet writeup I can host the HTML and pics.
Ryan I am doing the Writeup in Wrd right now, but I coulld send you what I have ans we could create a website. MY friend has a domain name for hsi BMW shop that he wants me to work on so we could use it as a site address. The site will also be for saling BMW, and other German cars as well as parts, new and used.
Does anybody have a picture of their brake booster rod length? Am I supposed to shave 15mm off of the rod, or cut the rod length down to 15mm? I'm using the e21 booster. I stuck it in, just to see what kindof distances I'm looking at, and it seems like both are rather extreme, shaving on the long side, and cutting on the short side...
do you still have the e30 brake booster you had before? what you do is cut the e21 shaft to match the e30 in length, use a grinder to make the shaft a smaller diameter then thread it to accept the e30 clevis.
And Ryan my clutch is terrible buddy, it seems to never fully disengage; i can feel it grind some when going from 4th to 5th, and at high speeds it is really bad.
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